Not impressed with Gladiator performance in snow

[23Mojave]

Or the system could overheat and shut down, leaving the driver with a 2WD Jeep. There are plenty of videos and posts about the RAM 1500 transfer case with 4A mode (which works the same as the Jeep) overheating after extended off-road use and leaving the truck with only 2wd.

I read about a Ram TCase overheating after some deep sand running.

Do you know if the overheating occurs only when the Tcase is in 4Auto? Or can it occur in 4H as well?

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[Rusty PW]

I read about a Ram TCase overheating after some deep sand running.

Do you know if the overheating occurs only when the Tcase is in 4Auto? Or can it occur in 4H as well?

The JL 392 has the same issue.

 

[beefeeter]

I like reading these kinds of conversations, you learn a lot, and you get to see how wildly different people experience similar things (snowy conditions).

Coming from my younger days of driving RWD '80s BMWs, and a RWD Ford Ranger (4cyl, manual trans) with all seasons here in our Wisconsin winters, it always interesting seeing how people talk about how the Gladiator handles snowy conditions.

If you have good tires and you have a basic/good understanding of weight distribution/speed/road conditions, it seems the Gladiator should be able to get you anywhere a non-snowmobile should go.

1) Buy good AT tires.
2) Know and drive within your capabilities.
3) Throw some weight in the back if you want a little extra grip off the line

Exactly!!! I come from track cars too and this is by far the most balanced truck. Feels like a big Miata especially with the top down ??

 

[ZoMojave]

Going up a snowy hill in 4H part time = the exact same thing as going up a snowy hill in 4H auto. So explain to me why having an auto function as a part of your manual transfer case was a must for snow?? I could be missing something here?

4H Auto Vs 4H Part Time


4H AUTO
The four-wheel-drive auto high range is for variable driving conditions.

In the 4H auto range, the front and rear axles are engaged, but all the power is sent to the rear axle. But when the vehicle senses the loss of traction, it can automatically distribute the power to the front and rear axles.

The 4H Auto is intended for daily driving.

4H PART TIME
The 4H part-time range is helpful where additional traction is required.

In this range, the front and rear drive shafts are locked together, splitting the torque 50/50 on the front and rear axles and forcing all wheels to rotate at the same speed.

4H part-time is not for daily driving; using it on hard and dry roads will cause damage to the driveline and uneven tire wear.

This was my personal Wheel/Tires set up. Again, like a sure-footed mule in the snow.

 

[Lunentucker]

Here in Virginia when we do get snow it's typically falling on surfaces that start out above freezing, and the snow initially melts before the surfaces cool enough for it begin to accumulate.
That creates a slippery unbonded layer of wet and ice under the snow, and it makes driving very tricky.

I don't know your conditions there before or during the snow, but everything plays a role.
I personally find better traction outside of other people's tracks, but we may have different snow altogether.

Yes, most pickups are light in the back end, and 2-300 pounds would certainly help, as would a full tank of fuel.

We haven't had snow since I got mine, so all I have is my 4 decades of prior experience with SAV's and IFS's. My Tacomas were incredible in the snow, but my old 76 Scottsdale would beat them handily. That things was a monster in snow. The 86 diesel ranger was pretty good too.

 

[Rusty PW]

My Power Wagon was a beast in the snow. The rear diff had a gear driven LSD with an electric locker from the factory. Along with the front locker.

 

[chorky]

Wagon was a beast in the snow. The rear diff had a gear driven LSD with an electric locker from the factory. Along

Those are great trucks! I just wish they weren't so large...

 

[redriderjf87]

My Power Wagon was a beast in the snow. The rear diff had a gear driven LSD with an electric locker from the factory. Along with the front locker.

I want a Truetrac for the Gladiator to come out. Or maybe it is now..

 

[Forum Crawler]

The "auto" system can only vary the amount of power sent to either the front or rear axle. It has no ability to vary the amount of power to wheels across an axle; that function would be controlled by the electronic traction control system, which all Gladiators have. Traction control works on the rear wheels at all times, and becomes available on the front wheels once 4x4 (or 4A) is engaged.



I see Papa already corrected you, but suffice it to say I find it interesting how you posted totally incorrect info shortly after insulting me a few posts higher. Hey, we all get things wrong and the point of a forum like this is to learn from a group of like-minded enthusiasts. All the best to you.



You got it, that's how it works. Not aimed at you, but many people call this "full-time 4x4" and it really isn't. Full time or permanent will use a real, mechanical center differential typically located in the transfer case. It's advantage is greater strength and zero electronics needed. The downsides are added weight, cost, and the fact that without a method of controlling slip between the front and rear axles, it could literally send 100% of a vehicle's available torque to just one wheel. Some AWD cars (Mercedes 4-Matic for example) use this type of transfer case and then rely on 4-wheel electronic traction control to do the rest. Land Rover Discovery II for a few years also used this system, albeit with a very good traction control system.



My tires have over 4,000 miles on them now. I could try a lower PSI, that's fair. However, Select-Trac on snow covered roads would not have made this vehicle any better. I would actually suspect the owner's manual would suggest using the locked "4H" mode in totally snowy conditions vs the Auto setting.



Why would a "Rubicon" Gladiator with these tires be any better on snow covered roads then any other type of Gladiator with the same tires? You certainly aren't locking your differentials while driving down the road...

-------------------------

I think some people mistakenly believe these Jeeps have a superior 4WD system, but they don't. As someone alluded to, actually the "Auto" mode transfer case is weaker then the Command-Trac unit. The reason is because the Command Trac case mechanically locks the front and rear axles together when 4H or 4L is engaged. The Select-Trac case simply engages the clutch to 100% when 4H or 4L is engaged. And while that will be fine 99% of the time, someone putting really big tires on and seriously wheeling their vehicle...or plowing snow with it...or possibly even towing a heavy trailer for years with this transfer case...could burn out the clutches. Or the system could overheat and shut down, leaving the driver with a 2WD Jeep. There are plenty of videos and posts about the RAM 1500 transfer case with 4A mode (which works the same as the Jeep) overheating after extended off-road use and leaving the truck with only 2wd.

Last note - the 2017+ Ford Raptor has a very unique transfer case. It has a 4A mode plus 4H and 4L. In 4A mode, it uses clutches just like the Jeeps and everything else. However, in 4H and 4L mode, it has a mechanical collar that locks the front output shaft to the rear via the chain. Additionally, if you are in 4A mode and the clutch is being used repeatedly...the transfer case will actually automatically switch to 4H true locked mode to prevent clutch overheating or damage. The Raptor's larger tires and higher power output required this transfer case. The RAM TRX is an even more powerful truck. RAM does not offer a 2WD mode on this vehicle, and does use a unique Borg-Warner t-case which is quite beefed up...but it is a clutch based system and unfortunately, overheating has occurred and 2WD will solely be available, even though there is no way to select 2WD except when the clutches overheat.

TLDR

Anyways, I stand by what I said.

 

[BlueCT]

I believe the original poster asked if his issue was related to the width of his tires. IMO the answer is definitely yes. There are many on here way more qualified than me to answer this and give accurate info but you are getting some good info. Many people know, and are giving the advice, you need weight in the back. Adding weight increases the pounds per square inch of tire on the ground. Reducing the width of the tire will do that also. If you are trying to get through very deep snow, so deep your plowing snow with the bumper, you probably want those wide tires. With under 8 inches you are probably better with a more narrow tire. If your vehicle doesn’t bottom out in snow, you want something very light with narrow tires. If the snow is deep you need ground clearance. If you have a lot of snow you need to dig through chunky wide tires will obviously do that way better than a narrow tire.
What I would remind you is, while you might have had a little slipping and sliding you didn’t get stuck. What do you think would get stuck first, the gladiator or RR. I’m guessing in really bad snow you’re taking the jeep even after this experience.
Good luck
-Chris

 

[Radio Guy]

I haven't seen any mention of how the Gladiator performs with snow chains. I have a '21 Mojave and will be spending some time in the So Cal mountains this winter around 7,000ft and they can get a lot of snow up there. During much of the winter our CHP requires snow tires or chains just to get into the area sometimes at 4,000ft altitude.

My main concern is a long steep dirt driveway I've got and am curious how deep of snow a Mojave can traverse in 4H low, rear locked with chains on the rear vs all four. Most people in this town run chains all the time during snow/ice months so I'll have them on the rear anyway but I might invest in some for the front if it will get me up the driveway through a few feet of snow without having to pay a snow plow guy a couple of times during the season.

 

[Rusty PW]

I want a Truetrac for the Gladiator to come out. Or maybe it is now..

I wish Jeep did the rear diff like the Power Wagon. Gear driven LSD with electric locker.

 

[chorky]

I haven't seen any mention of how the Gladiator performs with snow chains. I have a '21 Mojave and will be spending some time in the So Cal mountains this winter around 7,000ft and they can get a lot of snow up there. During much of the winter our CHP requires snow tires or chains just to get into the area sometimes at 4,000ft altitude.

My main concern is a long steep dirt driveway I've got and am curious how deep of snow a Mojave can traverse in 4H low, rear locked with chains on the rear vs all four. Most people in this town run chains all the time during snow/ice months so I'll have them on the rear anyway but I might invest in some for the front if it will get me up the driveway through a few feet of snow without having to pay a snow plow guy a couple of times during the season.

i think the biggest issue you would run into is clearance depending on your tire size and lift configuration. I have a set of 4 chains for just such a a reason. I have ran 4 on my TJ before and it did make a difference. ice is a different story though and you probably want to make sure traction control is offI would think

 

[Chief_jeep]

I haven't seen any mention of how the Gladiator performs with snow chains. I have a '21 Mojave and will be spending some time in the So Cal mountains this winter around 7,000ft and they can get a lot of snow up there. During much of the winter our CHP requires snow tires or chains just to get into the area sometimes at 4,000ft altitude.

My main concern is a long steep dirt driveway I've got and am curious how deep of snow a Mojave can traverse in 4H low, rear locked with chains on the rear vs all four. Most people in this town run chains all the time during snow/ice months so I'll have them on the rear anyway but I might invest in some for the front if it will get me up the driveway through a few feet of snow without having to pay a snow plow guy a couple of times during the season.

You aren’t required to have chains if you have 4wd/AWD and 3PMSF rated tires. Unless California has very different requirements than UT and Colorado but I don’t believe they are.

 

[Radio Guy]

You aren’t required to have chains if you have 4wd/AWD and 3PMSF rated tires. Unless California has very different requirements than UT and Colorado but I don’t believe they are.

I have the more aggressive of the stock Falcon tires and I've seen most Jeeps have to pull over and install chains at the direction of CHP. The only time I got through without chains was driving an H1 Hummer with stock Goodyear Wrangler MTs which are not snow tires and the CHP officer walked around the truck a few times and said "get outta here". The roads in this area get iced over and I had to be really careful with the H1 as it would slide to a stop and sometimes into the intersection on black ice. Chains would have been much better.

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