Jefe1018
Well-Known Member
The only solution is to swap to a black rhino or warn wheel that covers the rotor completely. ??What if I put parchment paper between the wheel and the rotor?
Y'all are killing me here! ?
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The only solution is to swap to a black rhino or warn wheel that covers the rotor completely. ??What if I put parchment paper between the wheel and the rotor?
Y'all are killing me here! ?
I'm considering trying Cerakote. They have a full color palate now and they even have a cold version that doesn't need to baked.Been painting brake drums and rotors for a lot of years.......... never a problem.
They used to come painted from the factory. (then they got cheap to save money)
I have pictures from decades ago showing differential/axle assemblies on a semi headed to an assembly plant.
You can see the black brake drum here -
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I've even powder coated them.
I spray - I mask and spray. I usually use a rust converter, then use a paint like VHT or similar depending.
I paint calipers.............
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Another with powder coated brake parts -
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Can't yet find the pictures of the front rotors and calipers of this car.
Never a problem. High temp paint, proper prep, just never had an issue.
Oh, great, thanks a lot - now something else I have to look into and maybe add to my arsenal.I'm considering trying Cerakote. They have a full color palate now and they even have a cold version that doesn't need to baked.
Drive through car washes are not for interiors.
Not a bad idea.........I think i wont last too many heat cycles tho.........we only use parchment paper once in the over and we see how that comes out.What if I put parchment paper between the wheel and the rotor?
Y'all are killing me here! ?
Only part with powdercoating on brake parts is, if you hit them with brake clean.......you just F'd the powdercoating. My powdercoater has customers sign a waiver for this.......BUT Bill, I know you're a smart guy with stuff like thisBeen painting brake drums and rotors for a lot of years.......... never a problem.
They used to come painted from the factory. (then they got cheap to save money)
I have pictures from decades ago showing differential/axle assemblies on a semi headed to an assembly plant.
You can see the black brake drum here -
![]()
I've even powder coated them.
I spray - I mask and spray. I usually use a rust converter, then use a paint like VHT or similar depending.
I paint calipers.............
![]()
Another with powder coated brake parts -
![]()
Can't yet find the pictures of the front rotors and calipers of this car.
Never a problem. High temp paint, proper prep, just never had an issue.
So how do you prep the brake parts? Or how do you prep after brake cleaner?Only part with powdercoating on brake parts is, if you hit them with brake clean.......you just F'd the powdercoating. My powdercoater has customers sign a waiver for this.......BUT Bill, I know you're a smart guy with stuff like this
If you are quick - it survives brake fluid ok.Only part with powdercoating on brake parts is, if you hit them with brake clean.......you just F'd the powdercoating. My powdercoater has customers sign a waiver for this.......BUT Bill, I know you're a smart guy with stuff like this
After having to use a sledge to get a rim off a rotor on the side of the road, a thin layer of high temp anti-seize does wonders.I will be the outlier and say Fluid Film or Blaster Surface Shield. Spray it on, wipe down and call it good.
Dude,This surface is rust is bugging me.
Just any quality brand high temp paint, or do I need something more specialized?
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That will work. I did anti-seize also then switched to Fluid Film about 10 years ago and never looked back for pretty much the same result. Applying anti-seize and not getting any on me, half my tools and the family dog was a losing proposition.After having to use a sledge to get a rim off a rotor on the side of the road, a thin layer of high temp anti-seize does wonders.
Jeep Bukkake. That's a thing now?