KC under hood lighting.

[Mr._Bill]

Using the push pins is a good idea. I wanted a quick and easy install, so went with the tape since it worked well on the other truck.

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[Maximus Gladius]

The hope is to not need to spend much time under the hood in the dark. It makes checking the oil quick and easy at night.

And then there’s the cool factor because you added this

 

[HooliganActual]

Yeah, I considered using VHB (man I love that stuff) because I use it for a lot. I was just worried that the heat would eventually break down the foam/adhesive so looked for an "out -of-the-box" approach

 

[HooliganActual]

And then there’s the cool factor because you added this

I agree with the cool factor!!! LOL

When I bought my 2016 JKUR, I was bummed that there was no under hood lighting. I loved that my old CJ actually had a light that was removable and had a cable spool to allow it to be pulled around the engine bay. I had to use that so many times back in the day, esp. when my starter solenoid started to go bad and I had to troublshoot in the middle of the night. Good times, lol

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I love pulling up to a dark camp site because we just can’t seem to get there when you can still see, open the hood right to the windshield and turn on the hood lights. Oh ya …we instantly shape shift into minions that are awe struck with the blinding lumens that light up the site, and all the trees around

 

[Edub]

First off, DO NOT use a magnet set up. Magnets are affected by heat and lose their attraction as they get hotter. The sun beating down on the top of the hood and the radiating engine heat will cause them to let go. I know...I tried doing that with 25# Rare Earth Magnets on my 2016 JKUR.

Second, I won't naysay the VHB tape idea. I use it for a lot of things on my build and it has worked well but the reality is that tape will eventually fail.

Here is IMHO the easiest thing to do and I have done it on all three of my current jeeps...the oldest being installed in 2016 on my JKUR:
There are two push plugs holding the center of the matting to the underside of the hood. Remove them, trim the heads to match the hole in the KC Cyclone light (or find some that are the right side) and push them back into the hood with the lights attached:

I trimmed the matting around the holes a little for a better/tighter fit and ran the wiring down behind the matting. On the JTR I hooked to Aux 4 and on my two JKURs I bought a Mopar bracket for the hood open sensor and just mounted a toggle switch there.

So far I have had these lights installed this way 7 years on one Wrangler, 5 years on another Wrangler and 3 years on the Gladiator and they haven't missed a beat.

Cheers

This may be my favorite by far. I feel like I looked at the push pins originally and changed my mind for some reason, but I can't think of it now. I'll take another look at this approach over the weekend.

 

[HooliganActual]

This may be my favorite by far. I feel like I looked at the push pins originally and changed my mind for some reason, but I can't think of it now. I'll take another look at this approach over the weekend.

I was too lazy to find replacement push plugs that had the right size head and the right size “pin section” so I just used a pair of side cutters to trim the originals. It has worked fine ever since and was essentially free. Good luck to you!!

 

[WILDHOBO]

I really like the magnet idea.

I’d use 3m tape. It’ll hold great.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I’d use 3m tape. It’ll hold great.

I retract my suggestion in favor of the @HooliganActual install. Perfect.

 

[Edub]

I retract my suggestion in favor of the @HooliganActual install. Perfect.

AGREED

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I installed the new set today. I roughed up the insulation a bit sticking my hands under it, but it seems okay. I ran some cable under the insulation to pull the wire through. I bought a better bracket to mount the switch. It could be screwed in, but the 3M VHB tape is quicker and easier. The wiring isn't finished, I'll do that when I install the cables for the winch and third battery.

What? No mercury switch??

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Second, I won't naysay the VHB tape idea. I use it for a lot of things on my build and it has worked well but the reality is that tape will eventually fail.

Query - why do you say it will fail? It's holding on some pretty heavy trim pieces on cars I've done, they are black parts and often sit in the full sun at shows and so on.
It's holding the switches and magnets that anyone with RSE power steps has.
Is it engine heat? The fumes from petrol under the hood?
I almost had to destroy some parts removing them - they had been on the car 10 years - but I found better NOS (new old stock) parts and that tape was holding so well it took a fine knife to get it loose.
Curious, that's all.
I mean, I like your method - so really it's just wondering.

 

[HooliganActual]

Query - why do you say it will fail? It's holding on some pretty heavy trim pieces on cars I've done, they are black parts and often sit in the full sun at shows and so on.
It's holding the switches and magnets that anyone with RSE power steps has.
Is it engine heat? The fumes from petrol under the hood?
I almost had to destroy some parts removing them - they had been on the car 10 years - but I found better NOS (new old stock) parts and that tape was holding so well it took a fine knife to get it loose.
Curious, that's all.
I mean, I like your method - so really it's just wondering.

First off, I’ll say have no experience or knowledge of the VHB tape failing as I described. My rationale was based on the knowledge that most foam products eventually break down over time due to exposure to various things; different foams are susceptible to different things such as heat, direct sunlight, chemicals or even bacteria.

I literally thought long and hard on it because I use so much in other places. Heck, I even used a bunch to hold my CoverKing Topliner on. I was also just a bit concerned that there wouldn’t be enough contact surface on the back of the KC Cyclones to get good adhesion. As I was standing there, hood open, pondering my options, I had the epiphany to just remove those plugs and use them. At that point, I let my mind stop “What If-ing” about the tape and just moved forward with the plugs.

Hope that helps. No real reason, just worried the tape would not be optimal in that application. It does sound like one of the previous posters did use it successfully, so that’s a good thing ?

 

[Mr._Bill]

I didn't want to mess with pulling the plugs. I thought about it, to make it easier to run the wire under the insulation. But the tape worked good for the first set, so my laziness won out.

 

[Mr._Bill]

What? No mercury switch??

That would be a nice add to the hood struts. I may have an old thermostat lying around here somewhere...

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