Clayton Overland+ vs. Premium Lift Kits...

[NotInStock]

Well I did try searching before creating this post but did not find much on the topic.

I am looking to lift my JTR Diesel to clear the 37"s I just put under it for off-roading. I am trying to figure out what is the opinion of using the Premium (with the johnny joints) over the Overland kit. I understand that the Overland kit will mean a lot less maintenance but even with that the track bars will still have Johnny Joints so I would assume there would still be some maintenance there.

So question...

1. Is the Premium far better for Off-Roading/Rock Crawling??
2. How often do we really need to maintain the joints??
   1. Miles??
   2. Months??
   3. Etc...??
3. Are they more difficult to set up??
4. Do Either last longer??

Also, what is the thought for height as it seems since it is a Rubicon a 2.5" will easily clear and probably fully flex but should I run up to the 3.5" instead to insure I do not rub under full flex?? Although, I am worried that if I go with the 3.5" I may push myself to load up 40's.

I am in SoCal so my main thing will most likely be Rock Crawling.

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[aFatBird]

As someone with the clayton 3.5 overland plus diesel kit, I would have enough room to put 40s on if I wanted to.
If you plan for 37s I would just go for the 2.5 in your preference.

1) You will get a tiny bit of extra travel since the joints will not bind as fast. You are still limited by the track bar.

2) If it's like anything else with a grease fitting I would just put a pump or two every other month. (probably too much but whatever) 5k miles is another route you can go

3) Basically the same setup

4) I'm only at 14k with the lift so I can't say about real longevity on it

 

[Teqsand]

Rusty's 4".... love it, rides great, reasonable price, quality parts and I get 36" to the bottom of the 37" tires
ZERO COMPLAINTS

 

[hjdca]

Well I did try searching before creating this post but did not find much on the topic.

I am looking to lift my JTR Diesel to clear the 37"s I just put under it for off-roading. I am trying to figure out what is the opinion of using the Premium (with the johnny joints) over the Overland kit. I understand that the Overland kit will mean a lot less maintenance but even with that the track bars will still have Johnny Joints so I would assume there would still be some maintenance there.

So question...

1. Is the Premium far better for Off-Roading/Rock Crawling??
2. How often do we really need to maintain the joints??
   1. Miles??
   2. Months??
   3. Etc...??
3. Are they more difficult to set up??
4. Do Either last longer??

Also, what is the thought for height as it seems since it is a Rubicon a 2.5" will easily clear and probably fully flex but should I run up to the 3.5" instead to insure I do not rub under full flex?? Although, I am worried that if I go with the 3.5" I may push myself to load up 40's.

I am in SoCal so my main thing will most likely be Rock Crawling.

I am also in So. Cal. I went with the Clayton 3.5" Overland Plus kit, and have 45K miles on the kit. I have done all the Big Bear badge of honor trails multiple toimes and the Rubicon trail. Absolutely no maint. on the control arm joints and no squeeking. I think it is a great kit, and I am glad I did not go with Johnny joints. Note: I also bought the Rock Jock rear drive shaft carrier bearing spacer, and after bending many rear sway bar links on boulders, I installed the Rock Jock anti rock rear sway bar. Also, I also replaced the front drive shaft with an Adams 1310 because of Clayton's recommendation for the 3.5" kit. I recommend all for So Cal rock crawling. For rock crawling, I think you need to go with their 3.5 inch kit. No lower. I would also get skids for all the control arm attachment points, rear shock skids, and diff skids.. Here are some articulation pics.

 

[NotInStock]

I am also in So. Cal. I went with the Clayton 3.5" Overland Plus kit, and have 45K miles on the kit. I have done all the Big Bear badge of honor trails multiple toimes and the Rubicon trail. Absolutely no maint. on the control arm joints and no squeeking. I think it is a great kit, and I am glad I did not go with Johnny joints. Note: I also bought the Rock Jock rear drive shaft carrier bearing spacer, and after bending many rear sway bar links on boulders, I installed the Rock Jock anti rock rear sway bar. Also, I also replaced the front drive shaft with an Adams 1310 because of Clayton's recommendation for the 3.5" kit. I recommend all for So Cal rock crawling. For rock crawling, I think you need to go with their 3.5 inch kit. No lower. I would also get skids for all the control arm attachment points, rear shock skids, and diff skids.. Here are some articulation pics.

Those pictures show your tires are pretty much stuffed in the fenders... Are they 37 inch tires or bigger?? Based on the pictures If they are 37s I would expect anything less than the 3.5" lift would have me rubbing my 37s.

You mention changing the front driveshaft, was that needed?? Is there risk of overextending the stock driveshaft?

Thanks,

Greg

 

[hjdca]

Those pictures show your tires are pretty much stuffed in the fenders... Are they 37 inch tires or bigger?? Based on the pictures If they are 37s I would expect anything less than the 3.5" lift would have me rubbing my 37s.

You mention changing the front driveshaft, was that needed?? Is there risk of overextending the stock driveshaft?

Thanks,

Greg

Yes, those are 37" Goodyear Kevlars, and since that picture has been taken, I have put on 37" Yokohama Geolandars MTs, and now have 37" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/Ts. I can recommend the Yokohamas, and the Mickey Thompsons -- stay away from the Goodyears. I have Rubicon Fenders, so, they have more clearance, but, I have never had a clearance issue with all those tires. No, personally, I would not go lower than a 3.5 inch lift. The Gladiator easily manages that lift. After all these years, the Clayton springs have not sagged, so, this really speaks well for the lift kit. Here is a more recent picture with the Mickey Thompsons.

Changing the front drive shaft is recommended on the 3.5 inch lift. Lot's of guys do not do it. I did make the switch... The stock driveshaft is thick - I think the issue is that, because of the angle, there can be an interference issue on the transfer case side of the driveshaft.... You can maybe get around it by pointing the pinion angle up - using your adjustable control arms, but, positive caster is gained by pointing the pinion angle down. So, it is a trade off. Good positive caster gives you better tracking and the steering wheel automatically going back to "zero" better after a turn. Try for 6.3 to 7 for Caster. Note: I am running approx. 6.9, and I really like that setting. For you, Probably closer to 6.3 or less for you to keep your pinion angle better for your driveshaft... If you get wobble, or bad tracking (ie. tires grabbing grooves on the fwy), then, you should know that more posive caster (pointing the pinion down more will help you. Only turn the control arms "half a turn " at a time and test. Of course the driveshaft interference at the transfer case is easy to test... Just use your jacks and set the front at full droop, and turn your drive shaft by hand to see how it works.

 

[NotInStock]

Yes, those are 37" Goodyear Kevlars, and since that picture has been taken, I have put on 37" Yokohama Geolandars MTs, and now have 37" Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/Ts. I can recommend the Yokohamas, and the Mickey Thompsons -- stay away from the Goodyears. I have Rubicon Fenders, so, they have more clearance, but, I have never had a clearance issue with all those tires. No, personally, I would not go lower than a 3.5 inch lift. The Gladiator easily manages that lift. After all these years, the Clayton springs have not sagged, so, this really speaks well for the lift kit. Here is a more recent picture with the Mickey Thompsons.

Changing the front drive shaft is recommended on the 3.5 inch lift. Lot's of guys do not do it. I did make the switch... The stock driveshaft is thick - I think the issue is that, because of the angle, there can be an interference issue on the transfer case side of the driveshaft.... You can maybe get around it by pointing the pinion angle up - using your adjustable control arms, but, positive caster is gained by pointing the pinion angle down. So, it is a trade off. Good positive caster gives you better tracking and the steering wheel automatically going back to "zero" better after a turn. Try for 6.3 to 7 for Caster. Note: I am running approx. 6.9, and I really like that setting. For you, Probably closer to 6.3 or less for you to keep your pinion angle better for your driveshaft... If you get wobble, or bad tracking (ie. tires grabbing grooves on the fwy), then, you should know that more posive caster (pointing the pinion down more will help you. Only turn the control arms "half a turn " at a time and test. Of course the driveshaft interference at the transfer case is easy to test... Just use your jacks and set the front at full droop, and turn your drive shaft by hand to see how it works.

Well I could always Rock Crawl in 2WD.... LOL.... Although I have accidently done that with my JK many times....

Yeah... I will never run Goodyears... I have heard they have gotten better over the years but I purchased back in Dec of 1993 a Jeep Sahara that had Goodyears on them and it was not a good year... only minor offroading on pretty much poorly maintained fire roads netted me punching holes through the sidewalls of 3 of those in less than a year. I then switched to BFG Muds and never punched out a sidewall except once and that took me driving over an Q45 (another great story)...

I have already Beadlocked 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers that I stole from my 2016 JKUR... I think the Nittos are even beefier than the BFG.

Your jeep looks really good.... I need a lift bad and just waiting for Clayton to announce their Memorial Day sale to purchase....

Here is mine sporting 37s and NO LIFT... only rubs a little...

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