Front Track Bar

[Badweather]

On the front track bar bolt (right below the pitman nut) where it attaches to the frame, is the bolt suppose to cinch up tight. I’m able to torque it down however it’s not tight in the frame socket. I have had it off before and it seems like it use to get tight to the frame attachment. I’m wondering if the bolt threads are messed up?

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[WILDHOBO]

On the front track bar bolt (right below the pitman nut) where it attaches to the frame, is the bolt suppose to cinch up tight. I’m able to torque it down however it’s not tight in the frame socket. I have had it off before and it seems like it use to get tight to the frame attachment. I’m wondering if the bolt threads are messed up?

Stock or aftermarket track bar? Can you show some pictures? But in general, track bars should definitely be tight. Meaning the sleeve the bolt goes through should have sufficient clamping pressure so that there isn’t any play.

 

[Badweather]

That’s what I’m thinking looks to be 14mm by 3 inches. I will replace it with a 9/16 inch grade 8 bolt.

 

[WILDHOBO]

That’s what I’m thinking looks to be 14mm by 3 inches. I will replace it with a 9/16 inch grade 8 bolt.

Why switch to sae? Just get a 12.9 rated metric bolt the same size.

 

[Badweather]

If they have it at Ace Hardware I will stay with metric.

 

[WILDHOBO]

If they have it at Ace Hardware I will stay with metric.

Belmetric.com is amazing. The reason I wouldn’t switch to sae is to keep the exact same diameter. You don’t want any play in the sleeve, at all.

 

[WILDHOBO]

If they have it at Ace Hardware I will stay with metric.

Also, metric 12.9 is stronger than sae grade 8.

 

[SoK66]

A practice that started with JK and is still applicable to JL/JT, use a grade 8 9/16” shank bolt and a stover nut, torque to 125-130 ft lbs with wheels on the ground.

 

[WILDHOBO]

A practice that started with JK and is still applicable to JL/JT, use a grade 8 9/16” shank bolt and a stover nut, torque to 125-130 ft lbs with wheels on the ground.

I get it. It’s close, but it’s not the same diameter. I get finding an alternative if you have no other option, but metric bolts are readily available.

 

[Trauma PA]

If they have it at Ace Hardware I will stay with metric.

The problem I have with ACE Hardware is their grade 8 hardware, at least where I live, is coarse thread. I prefer using hardware with fine thread due to the holding power to resist loosening from vibration.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The problem I have with ACE Hardware is their grade 8 hardware, at least where I live, is coarse thread. I prefer using hardware with fine thread due to the holding power to resist loosening from vibration.

No question. Suspension hardware should all be fine thread.

 

[SoK66]

I get it. It’s close, but it’s not the same diameter. I get finding an alternative if you have no other option, but metric bolts are readily available.

9/16” bolts match the actual size of the holes in the frame and axle brackets. Shank bolts are stronger and eliminate the tendency for the slightly smaller 14mm fully threaded bolts to oval out the bracket holes. Tried & true practice.

 

[WILDHOBO]

9/16” bolts match the actual size of the holes in the frame and axle brackets. Shank bolts are stronger and eliminate the tendency for the slightly smaller 14mm fully threaded bolts to oval out the bracket holes. Tried & true practice.

Grade 8 is less strong than 12.9. That’s the first issue. 150,000psi vs 180,000psi. Regarding diameter between 9/16” and 15mm, 9/16 is smaller than 15mm. If you’re ok with a “pretty good fit” with your suspension connections, please don’t encourage others to do the same.

 

[SoK66]

Grade 8 is less strong than 12.9. That’s the first issue. 150,000psi vs 180,000psi. Regarding diameter between 9/16” and 15mm, 9/16 is smaller than 15mm. If you’re ok with a “pretty good fit” with your suspension connections, please don’t encourage others to do the same.

The stock bolts are 14mm, not 15mm, and Grade 8 is considered the SAE equivalent to 12.9.

The stock, fully threaded track bar bolts are fine 1) IF they stay tight, and 2) IF the vehicle remains within the stock suspension travel limits. Add a lift with more travel and the tolerance difference between 14mm and 9/16" becomes a factor, the bolts begin to shift and the threads begin to oval out the bracket holes. This is a well known issue with JK, JL & JT, goes back to the earliest days of the basic platform, with an equally well documented and simple fix. Might want to do a little reading.

 

[Badweather]

I ended up using an OEM bolt, all is good as it should be.

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