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Switching from AEV Pintlers

RaleighRubicon

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I have had AEV Pintlers with 37" KO2s, and 2.5" Clayton lift for 60k miles. I didn't do enough research when I bought them because they rub the lower control arms at full turn. Before I replace these KO2s, I want to figure out why the AEVs are rubbing so I don't make the same mistake. Is it the offset, backspacing or the combo?

These details of the AEVs are:

Size: 17" x 8.5"
Offset: +25mm
Approximate Backspacing: 5.77"

I'm looking at Method 703's. Which offset/pacing do I need to get? I assume 0/4.8" as the 25/5.78 would be the same as I have now.
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Gizmo

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what control arms are ya using ? I have MOPAR 17x8.5 +12 5.22 BS wheels with 37" KO2S no rub with Metalcloak lower control arms or Core 4x4 arms
 

Gizmo

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are they straight or curved as some are for clearance
EDIT . I see they are slightly curved but can't tell if they provide any more clearance then the ones I used or is it the slight difference in back spacing between yours and mine . I guess its going to take someone with Clayton arms to respond. Shame to have to replace a nice wheels like Pintlers if it can be solved with different lower arms .
 
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RaleighRubicon

RaleighRubicon

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are they straight or curved as some are for clearance
EDIT . I see they are slightly curved but can't tell if they provide any more clearance then the ones I used or is it the slight difference in back spacing between yours and mine . I guess its going to take someone with Clayton arms to respond. Shame to have to replace a nice wheels like Pintlers if it can be solved with different lower arms .
  • Precision Bent Front Lower For Tire Clearance
 

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RaleighRubicon

RaleighRubicon

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Just found this. Looks like I'm not the first to have this issue.

I recently reached out to them asking about what fits the 2.5 overland kit and this was their reply.

Q:
> I'm planning to purchase a 2.5" Overland+ JT package for my 2023 Gladiator Rubicon. I've chosen Method 703s (17x8.5) and intend to fit 37x12.5r17 KO2s. Could you recommend the minimum offset required for this setup? Options available are 0mm and +25mm.

A:
> Hello. We recommend a 4.75 backspacing for a 35-37x12.5. The +25 is 5.73, which is NOT enough. But the 0 is the 4.75 so that should be a perfect fit. FYI 6.25 is normally stock


There are super friendly and responsive. If you have a specific set up, I would reach out. this is not about the diesel kit so I don’t know if there’s any difference.
 

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I know this isn’t the “correct” fix, but you could always turn your steer stops out a little on your knuckles. Doubt you would lose that much turning radius.

I’m running the AEV 2.5” XP lift with their Salta wheels (same measurements as yours) and have zero issues with stock control arms for what it’s worth. They are also on drop brackets.

Do you think it’s actually the tube thickness of Clayton’s control arms or the actual bend/shape?
 

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Seeing that I would research different brands of lowers . It would be cheaper to get different lowers than new wheels . I would get a different sent of lower arms before I bought 4 new wheels Metalcloak and Core 4x4 both work with 5.22 Back spacing and 37 KO2s with no problem and possibly more BS as I only know what works on mine with 5.22 because thats what I have not what they advertise them as. Not mush difference between your wheels and mine BS wise
  • Precision Bent Front Lower For Tire Clearance " on a 4.75 BS wheel apparently"
 

Gizmo

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Just for the hell of it I just turned my wheels all the way to the left and I could fit my fist long ways between tire and control arm . Metalcloak
 

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How wide are your 37’s? You should not be rubbing if they’re 12.5” wide with a +25mm offset.
 

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I have the Pintlers on mine. HOWEVER, I bought the JK version which has a offset of +10. Much better. The updated pintler version was made to keep the rim at stock location for the JL/JT.

From AEV's website:
"The AEV Jeep JK pintler wheels for sale will also fit on the JL Wrangler, but they may extend past the OE fender flares due to a lower offset (+10mm JK vs. +25mm JL)."
 

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I have had AEV Pintlers with 37" KO2s, and 2.5" Clayton lift for 60k miles. I didn't do enough research when I bought them because they rub the lower control arms at full turn. Before I replace these KO2s, I want to figure out why the AEVs are rubbing so I don't make the same mistake. Is it the offset, backspacing or the combo?

These details of the AEVs are:

Size: 17" x 8.5"
Offset: +25mm
Approximate Backspacing: 5.77"

I'm looking at Method 703's. Which offset/pacing do I need to get? I assume 0/4.8" as the 25/5.78 would be the same as I have now.
Not sure. I have AEV wheels and 37" Patagonia's and an AEV 2.5 lift and they do not rub. Second such setup I have had and never any issues. Are you using wheel spacers? The AEV wheels are designed to be the correct offset for the vehicle. Good luck to you.
 

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I know this isn’t the “correct” fix, but you could always turn your steer stops out a little on your knuckles. Doubt you would lose that much turning radius.

I’m running the AEV 2.5” XP lift with their Salta wheels (same measurements as yours) and have zero issues with stock control arms for what it’s worth. They are also on drop brackets.

Do you think it’s actually the tube thickness of Clayton’s control arms or the actual bend/shape?
AEV was made for their lift on stock mopar arms, which do have a good bend in them for clearance. So the stock arms fit less backspace than Clayton’s. Not that I’m knocking Clayton, just factors you have to consider.
 
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RaleighRubicon

RaleighRubicon

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Not sure. I have AEV wheels and 37" Patagonia's and an AEV 2.5 lift and they do not rub. Second such setup I have had and never any issues. Are you using wheel spacers? The AEV wheels are designed to be the correct offset for the vehicle. Good luck to you.
No wheel spacers. Must just be the beefy Clayton LCAs.
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