Pcv valve

[ShadowsPapa]

@Maximus Gladius thank you for asking the clarifying question as I'm referring to the "Make Up Air Hose" and was calling it (mistakenly) the PCV hose. My "MUAH" has oil in it, the plastic OEM intake tube where the "MUAH" connects (yes I only use OEM paper filters) has a stream of oil in it, and that oil has pooled up in the rubber ribs right where it attaches to the throttle body. I also attached a pic below of a very wet connection of the "MUAH" at the back of the driver valve cover. If anyone can enlighten me why this could be SO WET I'd greatly appreciate it. Regardless, I'm going to tear into the top end and go thru the passenger side "tick" procedure, replace all valve cover seals/gaskets, stick in a Dorman alloy oil cooler, water pump... etc. I really want to keep the Jeep for another couple years or (30K miles) before going to something new. For the $1500 bucks outlined below I hope that will do the trick.

"MUAH" super wet at connector at back of valve cover (driver side)... why?

2025 Plans...

Start with a PCV replacement - if you haven't already. See how that goes.
That's excessive. Mine isn't nearly like that.
If you had the tools/equipment it would be interesting to get a compression test, or better yet, a leak-down test.
If those are ok - you may end up doing a catch can, but if you do, make it a really good quality one. That's a case of "you get what you pay for".

I have to wonder what's up when Jeep changes part numbers for the PCV valve for the same engine going into the same vehicle - but different years.

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[darkhorse13]

Start with a PCV replacement - if you haven't already. See how that goes.
That's excessive. Mine isn't nearly like that.
If you had the tools/equipment it would be interesting to get a compression test, or better yet, a leak-down test.
If those are ok - you may end up doing a catch can, but if you do, make it a really good quality one. That's a case of "you get what you pay for".

I have to wonder what's up when Jeep changes part numbers for the PCV valve for the same engine going into the same vehicle - but different years.

Thanks, yes, I'm starting with the PCV replacement this weekend. Is it true that I can shake the PCV to check the health of it? I'm not putting it back in but just curious. I'm also sticking with the Mopar PCV # that fits my 2020 and not the TSB one as I originally thought I'd try.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Thanks, yes, I'm starting with the PCV replacement this weekend. Is it true that I can shake the PCV to check the health of it? I'm not putting it back in but just curious. I'm also sticking with the Mopar PCV # that fits my 2020 and not the TSB one as I originally thought I'd try.

All you can check is that it's not sticking inside.

This pic shows the part number of the one I took apart -

 

[Hootbro]

All you can check is that it's not sticking inside.

This pic shows the part number of the one I took apart -

You broke it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You broke it.

Nothing a little JB Weld won't fix!

I tried cutting a straight line but the essential tremor ruled that day.

 

[Advntrbound]

I swapped out for the newer design. I was already in the engine doing a spark plugs change. Can't say if it's better or not. But 100k miles maintenance and a few extra $$ to get a new one didn't hurt.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Nothing a little JB Weld won't fix!

I tried cutting a straight line but the essential tremor ruled that day.

Would you break into a new one so we all can see the difference., maybe test the spring strength and tension on both. You’d earn a special star that only you could get if you did that.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

It means the pcv is not functioning properly and/OR, they have excessive blow-by that isn't handled by the PCV.

I find it ironic that of the Jeep 3.6s we've owned, it's never been an issue.
Even mine only has a shine to it - expected to some extent because of the wide variations in load and RPM in my driving. But it's not enough to make any mess, leave any "puddle" and is such a tiny amount that even after 7,100 miles - the oil is not low enough to notice. Likely wouldn't take a cup (8 ounces) to top it off. (which is about what you are catching in the catch can)

If my math is correct, you are doing changes at about 3,100 miles, and catching roughly 1 cup (8 ounces for those south of your border).
I run more than double that and it doesn't drop that much - I'd be half a quart low or more at your rate.

Anything that exits through the PCV system is reflected by LOW OIL in the crankcase.

You are correct, my oil changes are when my oil life metre hits 50% @ 3100 miles and I collect 250ml in the catch can. I know this is blowby and the PCV was replaced at 60k kms (37k miles) along with the plugs and I’m now at 116k kms (72k miles) and I can pull the oil fill cap off with engine running and I have zero, nada, no air blowing out the hole. So at what point or speed do I have to go for blowby to push oil out the PCV or up the fresh air make up hose?? This is just weird to me.

 

[Freems]

Nothing a little JB Weld won't fix!

I tried cutting a straight line but the essential tremor ruled that day.

Take No shit from a tremor, you just need a tool change to more horsepower…I’m thinking plasma cutter and more practice! Keep cut’n sir.

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