The size of the opening is deceptive. The uninstalled valve has a smaller opening, when installed the opening conforms to the outlet on the end of the camshaft. This creates the best seal possible.Side by side - old and new
(also, prison vs no prison)
if you or anyone else recalls about a year or so ago there were a handfull of people I saw posting about this. Mine has been like this from day one.
Having my laptop back again, that's just a rubber seal. So your comments make total sense.
This is correct even on a 2024 model year vehicle. The cost differences are interesting
Thank you for verifying!
You can go ahead and replace the PCV valve with the updated one. In my case it may NO difference in the amount of oil vapors that the PVC system picks up.Reviving this as I'm at 61K miles and diving deeper into some maintenance... my intake tube has standing puddles of oil (@chorky style above) and the TB is pretty wet. I only use OEM air filters and oil changes every 5K miles.
Is the TSB version of the PCV valve (68609110AA) for $43.68 the "new" one I should be looking to order?
Please and thank you.
gross... yes, I took it off and cleaned it after this lovely discovery. I'm basically going to check it every oil change from here on out.
after...
Could be the pintle shape (longer or shorter taper), the metered hole (larger or smaller where the pintle nose opens and closes the opening) or spring tension inside the PCV valve itself.
I mean, I completely agree as the 2020 PCV part number is different and the vehicle fitment according to the website is 2016-2022... grrr, I don't know. All I know is that the PCV hose tube is wet and where it connects to the driver side valve cover is REALLY wet. Plus both of my camshaft position sensor seals on each valve cover are weaping (I wouldn't say leaking) something terrible. At this point, if I start tearing apart the intake and valve covers I'm going to do lash adjustors and rockers while I'm disassembled... yeah, I've been reading too many "ticking" threads lately and my 3.6L with 61K miles feels like it just knows it went out of warranty
Dang man that sounds like a bit of troubles might be lurking in the dark somewhere. I sure hope you can get ahead of it before something bad happens. I do for sure miss my Gladiator, but man a few friends of mine, and our government trucks, have been having such absolute trash service at our local dealer service department that I can't say I miss the headache enough to try and get into another one. I even have been checking out the JL's for curiosity and I just see so many problems that seem excessive for a 75K vehicle.... The ol TJ and LJ are working just fine, for now - although without the extra comforts of course.Reviving this as I'm at 61K miles and diving deeper into some maintenance... my intake tube has standing puddles of oil (@chorky style above) and the TB is pretty wet. I only use OEM air filters and oil changes every 5K miles.
Is the TSB version of the PCV valve (68609110AA) for $43.68 the "new" one I should be looking to order?
Please and thank you.
gross... yes, I took it off and cleaned it after this lovely discovery. I'm basically going to check it every oil change from here on out.
after...
I just want to clarify that your not saying what it “can” appear your saying… what it appears is that you’re saying the PCV hose is connected to the driver’s side valve cover. (You aren’t saying this right?) You could be saying the PCV Hose is wet AND the hose that’s connected to the driver’s side valve cover is also wet. (This, I hope you are saying) They are two different hose locations but both hoses can be wet.
It means the pcv is not functioning properly and/OR, they have excessive blow-by that isn't handled by the PCV.
@Maximus Gladius thank you for asking the clarifying question as I'm referring to the "Make Up Air Hose" and was calling it (mistakenly) the PCV hose. My "MUAH" has oil in it, the plastic OEM intake tube where the "MUAH" connects (yes I only use OEM paper filters) has a stream of oil in it, and that oil has pooled up in the rubber ribs right where it attaches to the throttle body. I also attached a pic below of a very wet connection of the "MUAH" at the back of the driver valve cover. If anyone can enlighten me why this could be SO WET I'd greatly appreciate it. Regardless, I'm going to tear into the top end and go thru the passenger side "tick" procedure, replace all valve cover seals/gaskets, stick in a Dorman alloy oil cooler, water pump... etc. I really want to keep the Jeep for another couple years or (30K miles) before going to something new. For the $1500 bucks outlined below I hope that will do the trick.
