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Trans pan bolts...

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The Yeti

The Yeti

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Temp range is 30-50c. Cap it off earlier than later. I cap mine off at 32c.
This is what I did on the X5 I did it on. Made a noticeable difference in the hard shifting issue it was having and eased my mind a bit knowing the fluid was getting to where it needed to go quicker on those cold days before it got hot, living in a colder climate here and all.
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This is what I did on the X5 I did it on. Made a noticeable difference in the hard shifting issue it was having and eased my mind a bit knowing the fluid was getting to where it needed to go quicker on those cold days before it got hot, living in a colder climate here and all.
There's a lot more to ATF than people realize - it's not comparable to engine oils in many ways. Viscosity temperature curves, and other factors people seem to ignore or try to compare to other fluids.
Once the viscosity control is gone, or if a fluid is used that didn't closely match the viscosity temperature curves of the OEM fluid - regardless of meeting other specs - all bets are off.

ZF fluid is very specifically "flat viscosity temperature curve" meaning that it maintains the same viscosity ranges throughout normal temperature ranges. Good for you people living up in the world of the midnight sun and all.
 
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The Yeti

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There's a lot more to ATF than people realize - it's not comparable to engine oils in many ways. Viscosity temperature curves, and other factors people seem to ignore or try to compare to other fluids.
Once the viscosity control is gone, or if a fluid is used that didn't closely match the viscosity temperature curves of the OEM fluid - regardless of meeting other specs - all bets are off.

ZF fluid is very specifically "flat viscosity temperature curve" meaning that it maintains the same viscosity ranges throughout normal temperature ranges. Good for you people living up in the world of the midnight sun and all.
Agreed 100% . My main thought at the time was checking at the lower end of the range so that if anything wasn't getting all it needed fluid wise until the heat helped the fluid 'expand' it would be best to set the level on the colder range of the scale. This is based on closer to 0% than 100% knowledge on internal transmission workings and just helped me sleep better when in theory either end of the scale would still be within range. FWIW I did use ZF fluid at that time being that BMW's in general seem to be somewhat picky with anything at times, so I played it safe.
 

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Tech Authority instructions make no mention of discarding the removed transmission pan bolts. Torque spec is 89 in-lbs, so you should not be torquing so tight they would be snapping off.
 

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If you're going to change the fluid and filter, may I suggest looking at the PPE kit.

I'm going that route when the time comes, for nothing else but a drain plug to make the whole process easier.
 

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Maximus Gladius

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Tech Authority instructions make no mention of discarding the removed transmission pan bolts. Torque spec is 89 in-lbs, so you should not be torquing so tight they would be snapping off.
There’s some conflicting instructions between the filter install section with your doc and the install instructions that came with my OE filter. Your doc says:
“Install the NEW transmission fluid filter and tighten the nuts (1) securely.”

….and the OE filter instructions says to tighten nuts till they make contact and then back off either a 1/4 or 1/2 turn. This allows the filter to wiggle a bit.

Would you see a reason for the filter to have some wiggle?
 

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There’s some conflicting instructions between the filter install section with your doc and the install instructions that came with my OE filter. Your doc says:
“Install the NEW transmission fluid filter and tighten the nuts (1) securely.”

….and the OE filter instructions says to tighten nuts till they make contact and then back off either a 1/4 or 1/2 turn. This allows the filter to wiggle a bit.

Would you see a reason for the filter to have some wiggle?
No clue on the difference. Tech Authority is the dealership tech data reference.

I can see the slight wiggle though to aid alignment of when the filter neck spout goes into the valve body. The nuts are pinch type lock nuts and backing them off should not be an issue on this application IMHO.
 

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No clue on the difference. Tech Authority is the dealership tech data reference.

I can see the slight wiggle though to aid alignment of when the filter neck spout goes into the valve body. The nuts are pinch type lock nuts and backing them off should not be an issue on this application IMHO.
Correct. It’s to allow alignment. Only lateral movement should be allowed.
 

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Just curious and haven't seen this mentioned in any searches. In a ZF 8 Speed (well, more specifically the ZF 8 speed in a BMW X5 which has a 'plastic' pan) They tell you to replace the pan bolts when changing the transmission fluid as they are "torque to spec" or like a stretch bolt, those little torx deals. So my questions is, can you reuse the tranmission pan bolts when dropping the pan, changing out the 7 ish liters you might get out (if changing cold) and swapping out, what I understand is a repalceable filter and reinstalling the pan before refilling on the Gladiator?
I've found apparently the pan gasket is reusable, pan is steel with a filter that can be removed and replaced but no mention of the bolts when doing the process on the JT.
Wasn't sure where to post this either, maintanance or transmission but here it is 50/50 chance
Bolts of plastic pan are Alu. In Jeep you don’t have them. I remember them from Europe in my Porsche 911.
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