PEAK Antifreeze + Coolant Equivalent to OEM Original

[g2020]

PEAK coolant = MOPAR properties and same warranty as Prestone at ZEREX price
- In June 2026, I added the link for ZEREX G30 50/50, above, because the sale price has remained below the $20 price point; meanwhile, PEAK Purple 50/50 has migrated above the $20 price point

- Coolant color is no longer relevant
- OAT-formulated and MS.90032 or MS-12106 are the right stuff for a Gladiator

Fully compatible:

1. Material standard MS-12106 and "Jeep 2013-PRESENT" are written on the label​

2. It is a match to "Jeep Gladiator" on the PEAK product finder (same for all Gladiator model years and trim levels)​

3. The fluid properties match all of those specified on the MOPAR label​

4. It is formulated with OAT.​

Quick summary: This post was originally written to introduce PEAK Purple (not violet) coolant and compare it to competing brands. For a quick summary of coolant requirements, see Summary of Advice on Antifreeze / Coolant for Jeep Gladiator

***If you like, join this forum***

Proof that compliance with MS-12106 is the same as compliance with MS.90032:

The Gladiator owner's manual calls for "formula OAT...MS.90032" engine coolant and​

MOPAR 68163848AC MS.90032 (concentrate) after 1:1 dilution with deionized & distilled water is the same as​

MOPAR 68163849AC MS-12106 (50/50 prediluted)​

​

Also see:​

- Item 8 in my post Key Info on Fluids & Filters for Jeep Gladiator, and a complete explanation of coolant material standards in the References section of the same post​

If you click the following link, it will open a large .pdf file:​

- Page 15 of the MOPAR VEHICLE LUBRICANT & CHEMICAL CATALOG (2024) shows the part number & MS-number pairings, above, and how they refer to different concentrations of the same base engine coolant​

- For the 3.0L EcoDiesel, see my review of ZEREX heavy-duty coolant

PEAK ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT TECHNOLOGY Antifreeze + Coolant for North American Vehicles - PURPLE

• Price
  • 50/50 Prediluted, part number NAP5D3
    • Also see section 1.8 of my post on Links to Prices)
  • Concentrate, part number NAP0D3
• Product data sheet
  • 50/50 Prediluted, part number NAP5D3
  • Concentrate, part number NAP0D3
• PEAK product finder
• Limited warranties (competitor warranties also provided for comparison; the aftermarket warranties shown here exclude off-road use; also see section 1.8 in my post on Warranty Screening)
  • PEAK
    • Guaranteed for up to earlier of 15 years or 350,000 miles
    • $1,500 $1,000 max liability per claim (cooling system); this warranty limit updated in June 2026
      • Warranty statement with $1,500 limit on cooling system is accessible through owi.com (dated 2023-01-31), but does not specify PEAK Purple coolant
      • Warranty statement with $1,000 limit on cooling system, hosted on napaonline.com (undated), applies to all PEAK-branded coolant
      • Note: The contradiction in max liability amount somewhat concerns me, but not enough to change my original guidance on this coolant
    • This "purple" coolant (part number NAP5D3 or NAP0D3) was listed as "new" on the PEAK product finder at least as early as February 2025
  • Prestone
    • Guaranteed for up to earlier of 15 years or 350,000 miles
    • $1,000 max liability per claim (cooling system)
    • Prestone's two American Purple options do not comply with material standard MS-12106
  • ZEREX (warranty info on ZEREX G30 is provided at the link to the Product Information Sheet; also see NAPA's link to the ZEREX warranty statement)
    • Guaranteed for 5 years or 150,000 miles (on label)
    • Max liability not specified in ZEREX warranty statement; make-it-right warranty (my words), i.e., "restore the equipment to normal performance"
    • Material standard MS-12106 and "Jeep 2014-Present" are written on the label; the main ingredients (including OAT) are the same as the OEM original; the Valvoline (ZEREX) product finder is not required for compliance verification in this case, but the link is broken
  • MOPAR (part number 68163849AC)
    • Guaranteed by MOPAR for (up to) 10 years or 150,000 miles
      • Implied warranty (product-replacement or money-back) for DIY
      • Dealer-installation includes 2-year warranty on parts & labor and coverage of damage to other parts
    • For key info on both coolant options (prediluted, above, and concentrate), see Key Info for Fluids & Filters for Jeep Gladiator

Key Details from the Label by Brand & Product Line

Summary by Brand & Product Line​

In alphabetical order:​

1. MOPAR​

2. PEAK ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT TECHNOLOGY North American Purple​

3. Prestone MAX American Purple​

4. Prestone PLATINUM American Purple​

5. ZEREX by Valvoline G30​

​

Bittering Agent​

- All antifreeze + coolant sold in the United States contains a bittering agent for child & animal welfare​

- According to Google AI, each of the aftermarket brands uses Denatonium Benzoate as a bittering agent; there is no info on what makes MOPAR "embittered", but it's probably the same chemical​

- PEAK includes Denatonium Benzoate on the list of ingredients, but does not describe it on the label (as bitterant, bittering agent, or embittered)​

​

Chemical Key​

107-21-1 = Ethylene Glycol​

111-46-6 = Diethylene Glycol​

3734-33-6 = Denatonium Benzoate (bittering agent)​

7732-18-5 = Water​

​

1. MOPAR 50/50 Prediluted Antifreeze / Coolant​

Part number: 68163849AC​

Formulation: OAT (Organic Acid Technology)​

Ingredients: 7732-18-5, hydrated inorganic acid, organic acid salts, 111-46-6, 107-21-1​

Compliance: MS-12106, OEM original​

​

2. PEAK ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT TECHNOLOGY North American Purple​

Part number: NAP5D3​

Formulation: 2-EHA Free OAT​

Ingredients: 7732-18-5, 107-21-1, 111-46-6, 3734-33-6, proprietary corrosion inhibitors​

Compliance: MS-12106​

​

3. Prestone MAX American Purple​

Part number: AF6900​

Compatibility: OAT, HOAT, G05​

Ingredients: 107-21-1, 111-46-6, 7732-18-5, proprietary inhibitors, bitterant​

Compliance: General equivalent ("Jeep 2000 & Newer" stated on the label)​

​

4. Prestone PLATINUM American Purple​

Part number: AF2700​

Compatibility: OAT, HOAT, POAT, G05; this is a non-2EH formula (red = different from Prestone MAX)​

Ingredients: 107-21-1, 111-46-6, 7732-18-5, proprietary inhibitors, bitterant​

Compliance: General equivalent ("Jeep 2000 & Newer" stated on the label)​

​

5. ZEREX BY Valvoline G30​

Part number: 877981​

Formulation: Phosphate & Silicate Free OAT​

Ingredients: 107-21-1, 7732-18-5, 111-46-6, corrosion inhibitors, defoamers, dye, and bittering agent​

Compliance: MS-12106​

References

2020 Jeep Gladiator owner's manual, second edition, p. 232​

FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS | Engine | Engine Coolant | "recommend...OAT (Organic [Acid] Technology)...MS.90032"​

​

https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze...421806_0_0?searchText=NAP5D3&redirectUrl=true​

https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze...oncentrate/1522441_0_0?searchText=peak+NAP0D3​

https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze...lant-antifreeze-purple-pre-mixed/1277692_0_0?​

https://www.dealers-mopar.com/resources/pdf/chemical/chemical-catalog.pdf​

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ity-fluids-pdf.324505/?force-system-browser=1​

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/2023-gladiator-3-6-coolant-confusion.81597/​

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...o-on-fluids-filters-for-jeep-gladiator.89959/​

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...s-of-fluids-filters-for-jeep-gladiator.89283/​

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...ent-to-oem-original.90295/page-3#post-1590871​

https://store.mopar.com/search?search_str=68163849AC​

https://media.napaonline.com/is/content/GenuinePartsCompany/157466161pdf?$PDF$​

https://media.napaonline.com/is/content/GenuinePartsCompany/3608701pdf?$PDF$#:~:text=To notify Valvoline of a,800-832-6825).​

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ple-pre-mixed-antifreeze-coolant/afza/g305050​

https://www.owi.com/retail/brands/p...ipment-technology-for-north-american-vehicles​

https://www.owi.com/retail/brands/p...prediluted-for-north-american-vehicles-purple​

https://www.owi.com/retail/brands/p...oncentrate-for-north-american-vehicles-purple​

https://www.owi.com/retail/diy-hub/specs-&-sds​

https://prestone.com/guarantee-and-claims/​

https://asset.productmarketingcloud.com/api/assetstorage/2482_948c15ed-1152-4ba4-9d8b-6de2b75595cd​

https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/antifreeze-coolant/​

https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/zerex-g30-antifreeze-coolant/​

https://shop.valvolineglobal.com/pr...e?q=g30&_pos=1&_sid=c27e57a75&_ss=r&Size=1+GA​

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Prestone...lon/1223953210?classType=VARIANT&from=/search​

Other Posts by the Same Gladiator Owner

Oils, Fluids & Filters -- Lists & Guides For Jeep Gladiator​

(Formerly: Fluid & Filter Series of Posts on Jeep Gladiator)​

This post is a collection of links to my articles on fluids & filters for a Jeep Gladiator​

​

My Monthly Maintenance: Power Steering, Automatic Transmission, Radiator​

In this post, I describe & justify three jobs that are or were part of my monthly maintenance routine.​

​

Attachments

List of attachments:​

MOPAR_Prediluted_Antifreeze_Coolant_OAT_part_number_68163849AB_MS-12106.png​

PEAK_ORIGINAL_EQUIPMENT_TECHNOLOGY_North_American_Purple_Prediluted_Antifreeze_Coolant_OAT_part_number_NAP5D3_MS-12106.png​

Prestone_MAX_American_Purple_Prediluted_Antifreeze_Coolant_OAT_HOAT_G05_part_number_AF6900.png​

Prestone_PLATINUM_American_Purple_Prediluted_Antifreeze_Coolant_OAT_HOAT_POAT_G05_part_number_AF2700.png​

ZEREX_BY_Valvoline_G30_Prediluted_Antifreeze_Coolant_OAT_part_number_877981_MS-12106.png​

MOPAR_Prediluted_Antifreeze_Coolant_OAT_part_number_68163849AB_MS-12106.png
- Part number 68163849AB has been superseded by 68163849AC (September 2025)
Click here for details from MOPAR eStore (the following images of this product are original)

PEAK_ORIGINAL_EQUIPMENT_TECHNOLOGY_North_American_Purple_Prediluted_Antifreeze_Coolant_OAT_part_number_NAP5D3_MS-12106.png
Click here for original images

Prestone_MAX_American_Purple_Prediluted_Antifreeze_Coolant_OAT_HOAT_G05_part_number_AF6900.png
Click here for original images

Prestone_PLATINUM_American_Purple_Prediluted_Antifreeze_Coolant_OAT_HOAT_POAT_G05_part_number_AF2700.png
Click here for original image
This picture is provided to show that POAT compatibility and Non-2EH formula, for Prestone part number AF2700 available at Walmart, are the key differences between the two Prestone options:

ZEREX_BY_Valvoline_G30_Prediluted_Antifreeze_Coolant_OAT_part_number_877981_MS-12106.png
Click here for original images

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[PuddleJumper]

any reason to go purple or is everyone already purple? pretty sure mine is orange

 

[1stXMan]

any reason to go purple or is everyone already purple? pretty sure mine is orange

I'm still orange too, but I've heard the dealership is sometimes using the purple. There's been some scuttlebut about the original coolant being non-performant and losing PH too soon.

I'm about to do a flush and refill and confused about using Zerex vs Peak. Looks like Peak is the better choice.

 

[PuddleJumper]

I'm still orange too, but I've heard the dealership is sometimes using the purple. There's been some scuttlebut about the original coolant being non-performant and losing PH too soon.

I'm about to do a flush and refill and confused about using Zerex vs Peak. Looks like Peak is the better choice.

are you going purple? I've noticed a trend of people going 5w-30 and purple coolant but no particulars as to why?

 

[1stXMan]

are you going purple? I've noticed a trend of people going 5w-30 and purple coolant but no particulars as to why?

I'm still undecided. Wolf Overland on YouTube used Zerex in his last video and it was yellow. He seems pretty good about his maintenance and I usually follow his lead. Looks like Peak has the better warranty though.

 

[PuddleJumper]

I'm still undecided. Wolf Overland on YouTube used Zerex in his last video and it was yellow. He seems pretty good about his maintenance and I usually follow his lead. Looks like Peak has the better warranty though.

warranty amounts aren't high enough to be useful imo. a blown motor definitely cost more than 1500 bucks to replace and you gotta actually get them to admit fault and pay up. I may be wrong but it feels like a Legal CYA for brands required by whomever for whatever reason.

 

[1stXMan]

warranty amounts aren't high enough to be useful imo. a blown motor definitely cost more than 1500 bucks to replace and you gotta actually get them to admit fault and pay up. I may be wrong but it feels like a Legal CYA for brands required by whomever for whatever reason.

That's good point. Might be better to stick with Mopar and just change it out every year.

 

[g2020]

I bought my Gladiator Sport in Sep 2019. Daily driver, 48K mi, and original purple coolant. Never taken it off-road, but that's going to change.

I know that ZEREX is also MS-compliant, but I am skeptical of their parent company's products because, in some cases, they leave compliance unfinished. Even if they were as good as AMSOIL, I wouldn't know it because, for example, their ZEREX product finder is broken. They also fall short on gear oil compliance documentation. Valvoline 75W-140 is compliant with MS-8985, but their 75W-90 is not compliant with MS-A0450. Neither are compliant with MS.10111 (for friction modifier / Trac-Lok, and I have Trac Lok). At least this is what their PI Sheet says (or doesn't say). It is possible that this is not a matter of the documentation, but of the compliance itself.

PEAK, on the other hand, hasn't taken anything for granted. OAT-formulated? MS-compliant? Jeep on label? Match on product finder? All fluid properties match? Match the Prestone warranty? Leave ZEREX with a single play (price)? Check, check...check (that's seven checks). These guys want our business bad. IMO, they've earned it. It is not often that an apparently perfect substitute comes along.

Speaking of warranties, I have seen service life guarantees and perceptions change (slowly) over the years. Cases in point are M1 EP motor oil (15K and then 20K mi or 1 year), AMSOIL Severe Gear (50K mi, no time limit, off-road), and AMSOIL Signature Series motor oil (15K mi or 1 year, off-road, with matching filter). These are not phony assurances, but the real deal. When I go off-road, I will follow the advice in the owner's manual (40% to 50% of service interval for normal driving). However, I will make an exception to the owner's manual for AMSOIL Severe Gear and, for up to 10K mi, Signature Series motor oil.

I know that taking a vehicle off-road voids the PEAK warranty, but should we expect 50% of the warranted service life (175K mi or 7.5 yrs) for normal driving? If not, what do you think we can expect? I am curious because 1stXMan says that he changes the coolant every year.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Before each coolant service, I purchased 1 gallon of PEAK Purple Concentrate (NAP0D3), 1 gallon of distilled water, and 2 gallons of PEAK Purple 50/50 Prediluted (NAP5D3). I poured out 1/2 gallon of distilled water (yes, carefully measured). I advised each shop to first install the concentrate, next install 1/2 gallon of distilled water, and finish with 50/50 prediluted.

…and if I remember correctly the first shop only used the concentrate and non of the distilled water nor any of the 50/50, correct? They also used a vacuum system, yes?

I personally have no experience using or seeing how a vacuum system works, would love to read what @ShadowsPapa could say about it. Does this system require the upper hose to be removed? However, my concern would be that because they used a descale solution/water to flush but then ONLY used your 1 gallon of concentrate and called it good, I’m pretty sure leaving that descaling stuff in there isn’t the best stuff for the pump. Whatever is in the descale stuff isn’t meant to stay mixed with coolant long term.

Good thing you got out of there and went to the second shop.

Thanks for the write up!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

…and if I remember correctly the first shop only used the concentrate and non of the distilled water nor any of the 50/50, correct? They also used a vacuum system, yes?

I personally have no experience using or seeing how a vacuum system works, would love to read what @ShadowsPapa could say about it. Does this system require the upper hose to be removed? However, my concern would be that because they used a descale solution/water to flush but then ONLY used your 1 gallon of concentrate and called it good, I’m pretty sure leaving that descaling stuff in there isn’t the best stuff for the pump. Whatever is in the descale stuff isn’t meant to stay mixed with coolant long term.

Good thing you got out of there and went to the second shop.

Thanks for the write up!

Frankly - I'd not go by much of what he's written up.
Always use distilled.
Always pre-mix going in.. You just can't pour in undilute and then assume your water later will end up the correct mix.
And his suggesting that other than 50-50 is ok - wrong.
Studies have been done, believe it or not, by AMC and others (I have copies) that showed the peak FLOW and thus cooling capacity was at 50-50 and other mixes, either too right, or not right enough, in the coolant part, resulted in slower flow (gallons/minute) and could actually result in cavitation.
He's got some risky stuff in there.

This for example -

If you bring your vehicle to an independent shop, make sure that you A) specify the order in which each fluid is to be poured (1 gal concentrate, then 1/2 gal distilled water, then finish with 50/50 prediluted), B) advise them not to use the petcock to drain the radiator (because it is prone to breaking), and C) advise them to use the lower radiator hose to drain the coolant. I never thought it could happen, but the (inexperienced and unsupervised) dude at the first shop detached the upper radiator hose on his first try. I paid the full price because, the next day, the job was completed properly and I just wanted to get the heck out of there

BS. No, do not do this. He is not experienced but telling others to do it this way? I hope no one actually follows that.

are you going purple? I've noticed a trend of people going 5w-30 and purple coolant but no particulars as to why?

The internet - the blind leading the blind. Man, this thread has some really goofy stuff in it, would take hours to disassemble it and show just how bad it is.

OAT coolant matters - not the color. Color went out the door years ago. It's not a standard any more. When foreign automakers started doing their own thing with colors and all - it messed things up.
The one thing to keep in mind is OAT - pure OAT, not HOAT or "will fit". Pink, orange, purple - just so it's OAT and meets the specs.

Annual change - not needed. Like 2,000 mile oil changes, a feel good thing, but heck, 40 years ago we didn't do annual changes with inferior cooling systems and coolant!

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Studies have been done, believe it or not, by AMC and others (I have copies) that showed the peak FLOW and thus cooling capacity was at 50-50 and other mixes, either too right, or not right enough, in the coolant part, resulted in slower flow (gallons/minute) and could actually result in cavitation.

What’s the mix ratio of coolant in NASCAR cars? How much cavitation is happing in those and “like” extreme track vehicles?

Concentrate will mix if all you have in there after a flush is “some amount” of water, right? As far as knowing what the percentage is, a coolant tester may not give you the ../.. mix % but you’ll know your boiling and freeze points and make adjustments from there. That’s always worked for me, I’m sure I’m not alone.

Summit Racing also performed a published test with the different temp readings of just water, water mixed with water wetter and 50/50 mix. Their report found more water than coolant kept temps down. Yes, corrosion an issue but …cavitating because you don’t have exactly 50/50?? Maybe all these diesel units derating “may be” (in part) as a result of 50/50 and not using more water than coolant?? It’s what Summit Racing report would suggest. I’ll find it on here and repost it for you.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/red-diesel water wetter supercoolant.pdf

 

[ShadowsPapa]

What’s the mix ratio of coolant in NASCAR cars? How much cavitation is happing in those and “like” extreme track vehicles?

Totally different animals. We're not talking race engines or specially built track engines that get rebuilt or replaced at the drop of a hat and don't get many miles at all put on them.
We're talking engines that go years and miles - and need to last without being torn down after every race or so.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/red-diesel water wetter supercoolant.pdf

They are selling product.
Yes, there are temperature differences, but their tests are to prove you need Redline water wetter.

I'm talking independent testing by an auto maker trying to make their engines last and stay cool under all sorts of conditions, with interest in selling products. The document included photos, and graphs showing the actual coolant flow in gallons with various mixtures.

I've got a dozen binders of their bulletins and it would take hours to go through them and find it - (I had it scanned as a PDF, but lost that drive years ago).

A proper tester will show you the mix - not just your "temperature protection". It will show you the current mixture but you have to know what type of coolant is being used.

I don't go by "I hope it's close". I make sure it's right. And when I carry extra stuff with me, I know that a mix of 50/50 will work instead of - should I add water? Or antifreeze? when needed.
I drain both block and rad as much as is possible, and assuming I've kept things at 50/50 over time, I know without guessing when refilling.
Otherwise- if you "miss", then what - you drain some out and add what you really need? So you assume and miss the target - then what?

I know I have a good mix of anti-oxidizers, lube for the water pump and more, without guessing, and know I can take it out without worry until the next coolant change time.

I've never lost an expansion plug or anything due to corrosion, all parts come out without damage due to coolant issues, I've also not had a water pump seal leak on me or water pump bearings go early - at least so far. We're talking about a whole package of things that need to be done by the coolant - a lot more than taking away heat.

I know a lot of people get by - but my thing was the OP's bs about telling the shop how much of what to add and so on - he's got no clue what's left in there. His post looked more like it was put together with stuff "from the internet" or one personal experience, and not decades of experiences or facts from research by independent people.
To try to tell someone "put in this much of x first, then finish with this much y" - seriously?
They are really on a super-narrow focus, leaving so much out!

>>a 50-50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water is considered optimal for most vehicles and climates because it effectively balances freeze protection, boil-over protection, and cooling efficiency, outperforming pure antifreeze or water alone<<

It's the ideal BALANCE - protection at both ends, and cooling ability, and protection from acids, oxidation, protection for the water pump seals and so on.

People can do whatever they want, of course, their vehicle, their money, and perhaps their breakdowns to deal with. I go by what I actually know and by independent testing.
I really am not sure why I should care - other than trying to get those who are seeking decent information from ending up getting misled and having other problems down the road.
But then, that's their problem if they do - if they believe everything they read on the internet.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

They are selling product.
Yes, there are temperature differences, but their tests are to prove you need Redline water wetter.

I'm talking independent testing by an auto maker trying to make their engines last and stay cool under all sorts of conditions, with interest in selling products. The document included photos, and graphs showing the actual coolant flow in gallons with various mixtures.

I've got a dozen binders of their bulletins and it would take hours to go through them and find it - (I had it scanned as a PDF, but lost that drive years ago).

A proper tester will show you the mix - not just your "temperature protection". It will show you the current mixture but you have to know what type of coolant is being used.

I don't go by "I hope it's close". I make sure it's right. And when I carry extra stuff with me, I know that a mix of 50/50 will work instead of - should I add water? Or antifreeze? when needed.
I drain both block and rad as much as is possible, and assuming I've kept things at 50/50 over time, I know without guessing when refilling.
Otherwise- if you "miss", then what - you drain some out and add what you really need? So you assume and miss the target - then what?

I know I have a good mix of anti-oxidizers, lube for the water pump and more, without guessing, and know I can take it out without worry until the next coolant change time.

I've never lost an expansion plug or anything due to corrosion, all parts come out without damage due to coolant issues, I've also not had a water pump seal leak on me or water pump bearings go early - at least so far. We're talking about a whole package of things that need to be done by the coolant - a lot more than taking away heat.

I know a lot of people get by - but my thing was the OP's bs about telling the shop how much of what to add and so on - he's got no clue what's left in there. His post looked more like it was put together with stuff "from the internet" or one personal experience, and not decades of experiences or facts from research by independent people.
To try to tell someone "put in this much of x first, then finish with this much y" - seriously?
They are really on a super-narrow focus, leaving so much out!

>>a 50-50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water is considered optimal for most vehicles and climates because it effectively balances freeze protection, boil-over protection, and cooling efficiency, outperforming pure antifreeze or water alone<<

It's the ideal BALANCE - protection at both ends, and cooling ability, and protection from acids, oxidation, protection for the water pump seals and so on.

People can do whatever they want, of course, their vehicle, their money, and perhaps their breakdowns to deal with. I go by what I actually know and by independent testing.
I really am not sure why I should care - other than trying to get those who are seeking decent information from ending up getting misled and having other problems down the road.
But then, that's their problem if they do - if they believe everything they read on the internet.

What id like to know is what the first shop did in using this vacuum system and flushing with descaler. 1 gallon of the OAT and the rest of it is the descaler left in there. What is that stuff? Vinegar water or something worse that strips the cooling system in short order then it’s mixed with the OAT?? This is what’s regular practice at this shop!

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