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Waiting on a tow after leaving dealer after oil change

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The Yeti

The Yeti

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Well this sure spiralled quickly... (slowly backs out of the room hoping Shadowspapa gets hired as lubetech at the local dealer until the free oil changes/ext warranty runs out and I get back to doing my own oil changes again, I mean free oil and filter seemed like a good idea until....)
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Stan H

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Nothing is idiot proof. Same monkey that cannot correctly install a o-ring would be the same monkey that would forget to remove a stuck can filter gasket and double gasket it with a new can filter.

I like my Baxter Performance oil filter adapter that lets me use a can filter, but one has to resign themselves to doing all their own oil and filter changes which is pretty much the only solution if one sticks with the factory cartridge oil filter setup and expects it to be done right.
I have always held that mentality . Never ever ever ever ever trust a quick lube place to change your oil. And almost nearly None of the dealers.
 

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I have always held that mentality . Never ever ever ever ever trust a quick lube place to change your oil. And almost nearly None of the dealers.
Yeah, I have sworn off the quickie lube places entirely but on rare occasion have the dealership do something but I double and triple check before driving off the lot.
 

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Well this sure spiralled quickly... (slowly backs out of the room hoping Shadowspapa gets hired as lubetech at the local dealer until the free oil changes/ext warranty runs out and I get back to doing my own oil changes again, I mean free oil and filter seemed like a good idea until....)
I have only ever used the dealer 1 time and 1 time only it was when I replaced the transmission. I dont trust those free oild changes and filters. I always suspect they are free of filters and possibly most of the oil. My advise. Never let anyone change your engine oil.
 

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Thanks for the advice, believe me I know better. But then here we are, apparently not right. Ive ALWAYS done my own maintenance, repairs etc ever since my first "new" or new to me half decent vehicle from a dealership and bad experiemce on warranty or that "Can not duplicate the concern" deal which is pretty standard for any brand. Always been a Chevy particularily Duramax guy for years, first experience with the Jeep although not this dealer (new employees these days though). At this point do I want to go back to let them touch it again. No. BUT should I, in case shit hits the fan, probably. I have an extended warranty to begin with right now. It has now been extended further (well the engine and any fault related to the lubrication system anyway through this dealership only not directly related to the actual extedlndd warranty) so should I give them the chance to look after if again for now, ya probably whether I want to or not. Normally would I get home amd give it all a once over, yup. This time I went down the road to Canadian Tire to get spme washer fluid for the wife, then a short 15km drove out of town to the farm dealer to get some meat church rub. The plan was to go home take a look amd get some shit done I had planned. Ypu know the rest at this point, that didnt happen. So now I gave them the benefit of the doubt for now to be accountable should somethong happen. To be clear ai dod not sogn anything when I went back. I did have the service manager print and sign on letterhear from the dealer. Should something happen above and beyond that, I still have a leg to stand on should it be relatable. Woth all that said, I bpught this thinking once it's paid off Ill just keep it and drive it in to the ground if it still makes semse instead of tradong/selling amd getting on to another payment. After this, amd this being in the back of my mind from here on out, who knows maybe not now

Edit: I did see that thread on a quick search while waitong for the tow truck, didnt get through all or much of it in between things and now, I need to refill my glass with ice etc. And forget this day for now(slowly backs out of the room again...)
 

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IMO, the design is ok, but people knowing how to deal with plastic parts that seal with an o-ring, that's where the problem is
People don't understand o-rings.
The o-ring seals, not the tightness of the cap. It could be at 0 ft/lbs as long as that o-ring was in place and it would seal.
Lube the damned o-ring, keep the thing STRAIGHT, and don't over-tighten. Snug is fine, more tight does not mean a better seal because the o-ring seals it
If people could think of that thing in the lines of a hydraulic line plugged into the back of a tractor - thousands of PSI against that o-ring, and it seals without any "torque" on the connector.
Or how about your quick-connect air hoses?

Sorry, it's the dummies that deal with the filter housing that are the bigger issue, not the housing itself.
I also get that but it’s not obvious to many that you don’t need to crank the cap down so in my eyes it’s not robust because you need to design for ”the lowest common denominator” who might be servicing the truck. Combine that with the fact that it’s location is absolutely the worst for avoiding oil dripping on the alternator, over the top of the engine, and on the serpentine belt. I cover my alternator and the front of the engine and even then I still occasionally get oil down under the intake manifold. If they’d spend a few more dollars and move the cartridge to a remote location other than over top the engine I’d be much better with it, but no, everything these days is designed to remove as many parts/cost as possible.
 

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Well this sure spiralled quickly...
Yeah ! We’ll come on here on a Friday night and see how the different preferable drinks of each person will input their opinions “quickly” ! Saturdays are even better-all day! 😂
 

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... Really wasting a day with somthing so annoying and frustrating and trying to be reasonable is not ideal but I don't know if things will/would work out any bettergping in screaming and yelling so trying hard to have patience
When "free" means "cost you a day", ugh!
 

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First thing after opening hood - loosen filter cap, raise filter enough to open the lower drain valve. Leave filter sitting there to drain down.
Drain oil,
Check other fluids, EHPS, brake, washer reservoir, coolant, transfer case, differentials, whatever else needs done, record the date and mileage in my book, then back to plug up the pain (close valve or put plug back in, change filter (which should be pretty much drip free by now) and go from there.

I guess It's how we did it years ago and I've carried those habits forward so that things are really drained out good by the time everything else is done.
 

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If they’d spend a few more dollars and move the cartridge to a remote location other than over top the engine I’d be much better with it, but no, everything these days is designed to remove as many parts/cost as possible
Truly there is minimal oil drip on any of those surfaces if you let the cartridge drain after loosening. As one said earlier if it’s an issue then cover those surfaces. Still less mess than most.
 

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Thanks for the advice, believe me I know better. But then here we are, apparently not right. Ive ALWAYS done my own maintenance, repairs etc ever since my first "new" or new to me half decent vehicle from a dealership and bad experiemce on warranty or that "Can not duplicate the concern" deal which is pretty standard for any brand. Always been a Chevy particularily Duramax guy for years, first experience with the Jeep although not this dealer (new employees these days though). At this point do I want to go back to let them touch it again. No. BUT should I, in case shit hits the fan, probably. I have an extended warranty to begin with right now. It has now been extended further (well the engine and any fault related to the lubrication system anyway through this dealership only not directly related to the actual extedlndd warranty) so should I give them the chance to look after if again for now, ya probably whether I want to or not. Normally would I get home amd give it all a once over, yup. This time I went down the road to Canadian Tire to get spme washer fluid for the wife, then a short 15km drove out of town to the farm dealer to get some meat church rub. The plan was to go home take a look amd get some shit done I had planned. Ypu know the rest at this point, that didnt happen. So now I gave them the benefit of the doubt for now to be accountable should somethong happen. To be clear ai dod not sogn anything when I went back. I did have the service manager print and sign on letterhear from the dealer. Should something happen above and beyond that, I still have a leg to stand on should it be relatable. Woth all that said, I bpught this thinking once it's paid off Ill just keep it and drive it in to the ground if it still makes semse instead of tradong/selling amd getting on to another payment. After this, amd this being in the back of my mind from here on out, who knows maybe not now

Edit: I did see that thread on a quick search while waitong for the tow truck, didnt get through all or much of it in between things and now, I need to refill my glass with ice etc. And forget this day for now(slowly backs out of the room again...)
I have already resigned myself to a complete renewal of the machine. I started with the water pump and serpentine belt ,thermostat & water temp sensor, transmission after it failed, then top of engine injectors,plugs,coil packs, cam sensors crank sensors O2sensor, map sensor I bought and new E-brakes today, I have all 4 new rotors and pads, front hub assemblies, and ball joints.. after i get those installed hopefully next weekend I am going to change every control arm and regear it . I also recently sanded and repainted the entire frame . The only way to keep a vehicle over extended years is constantly renewing parts to as new status .
 

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First thing after opening hood - loosen filter cap, raise filter enough to open the lower drain valve. Leave filter sitting there to drain down.
Drain oil,
Check other fluids, EHPS, brake, washer reservoir, coolant, transfer case, differentials, whatever else needs done, record the date and mileage in my book, then back to plug up the pain (close valve or put plug back in, change filter (which should be pretty much drip free by now) and go from there.

I guess It's how we did it years ago and I've carried those habits forward so that things are really drained out good by the time everything else is done.
I just pull filter out and get under drain .. then when its done put mew filter in and then drain plug and oil and then start it.
 
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The Yeti

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I have already resigned myself to a complete renewal of the machine. I started with the water pump and serpentine belt ,thermostat & water temp sensor, transmission after it failed, then top of engine injectors,plugs,coil packs, cam sensors crank sensors O2sensor, map sensor I bought and new E-brakes today, I have all 4 new rotors and pads, front hub assemblies, and ball joints.. after i get those installed hopefully next weekend I am going to change every control arm and regear it . I also recently sanded and repainted the entire frame . The only way to keep a vehicle over extended years is constantly renewing parts to as new status .
Lol well if I was going to go that far I would've done it on the LBZ I owned for 20 years before buying this unit. Thought I'd buy this drive it and change fluids as necessary. Althought I did swap out the trans fluid n filter recently because I know the ZF8Speed is far from an Allison...(Apples to Oranges I know). This unit was a "won't feel bad to put the dogs in it, wont feel bad to take it down a trail or un-maintained road/bush trail with the dogs, in the winter" type of decision. Thought well parts should be easy to get (haa, stelantis) or at least aftermarket (thanks for that) and easy to work on myself if shit happens. Well I was partly right. So I guess I just keep goong for now and instead of hopijg for the best amd maybe not having to get in to another payment again down the line wait n see. I mean worst case scenario i pull the #$%! Pl%$ drive for @ w#!L£ F!££ IT B@(K U% n drop it off @ @*******. well, IYKYK Considering it. But ....
 
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