Waiting on a tow after leaving dealer after oil change

[ShadowsPapa]

The dealer should replace your engine. Not joking. Replace or nothing.

But he never got to the point of no oiling.
Best would be extend the warranty.
I'd not want them messing with replacing the engine at this point. That alone is risky (ask people named Kevin)

He was smart, shut it down, never lost oil to the point of risking the engine.
I'd rather keep a known than venture into an unknown engine swap, leaking hoses, clamps left off, wiring mess-ups.

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[WILDHOBO]

I get all of that, but what's wrong with a regular replaceable filter like we used for 50+ years? At least then the oring is built in and can't be installed wrong or pushed out of place when being installed. Over torquing still happened, but it almost never caused a leak and worst case I could hammer a screw driver through the damn thing in order to get the leverage to get it off because the entire thing was going in the trash anyway. And if it's on the bottom the oil change is done from 1 spot aside from pouring the new oil in.

As for me, I hate tin can filters with a passion. Cartridge filters are less messy and faster. But yes, a little common sense goes into putting the o ring on in the right spot, and making sure to lube the ring with oil before installing it. I’ve done around 20 oil changes on this thing and my cover looks brand new. Never had an issue.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I always liked the idea oil a metal can on the lower end and for extra caution I would put a filter mag on it, which would help with piece of mind in this scenario, ut it is what it is I guess. Just spoke to him again for an update, they topped up the oil after about 2L or so it was on the dipstick but they are doing another oil change on it again. He said to be up front the oil filter housimg was not on correctly or toght enough but will be cleaning it all up and checking everything over again to make sure there is no other issues before letting me have it back and if not ready by end of day a vehicle os waiting for me already just in case. I'm obviously not happy but am being pretty good about it and givong them the benefit of the doubt to make it right. Time will tell and that little 'what if' in the back of my head will be there for good though now. I'll be touching base again by 430 if I havent heard anything either way. Really wasting a day with somthing so annoying and frustrating and trying to be reasonable is not ideal but I don't know if things will/would work out any bettergping in screaming and yelling so trying hard to have patience

If it’s true that it wasn’t empty, you might get away with it. But I’d watch them put that 5qts in personally. And never let them change your oil again. Not worth the free changes. Just have them give you 8 sets of oil and filters, and sign off that your free changes have been satisfied.

 

[WILDHOBO]

But he never got to the point of no oiling.
Best would be extend the warranty.
I'd not want them messing with replacing the engine at this point. That alone is risky (ask people named Kevin)

He was smart, shut it down, never lost oil to the point of risking the engine.
I'd rather keep a known than venture into an unknown engine swap, leaking hoses, clamps left off, wiring mess-ups.

Agreed. I originally thought they let him leave without filling the oil at all.

 

[RMWV]

My other car is a Porsche Boxster, which has a similar set up except it is on the bottom. Porsche says to replace the plastic housing after 3 uses. I found an adapter to replace the whole unit with an adapter and a spin on metal filter. Some genius needs to make on for the Jeep.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

My other car is a Porsche Boxster, which has a similar set up except it is on the bottom. Porsche says to replace the plastic housing after 3 uses. I found an adapter to replace the whole unit with an adapter and a spin on metal filter. Some genius needs to make on for the Jeep.

They already have, but for most, this is simply a non-issue.
A solution waiting for a problem.
You can indeed change the filter cap if you want, every 3 or 4 changes.
They make metal filter caps for these already, too.
But since the filter housing is also part of the oil cooler, it's not as simple as unscrewing one parts and screwing a simple, cheap adapter in place.
Over a decade of owning several Jeeps with the 3.6, it's just not been a problem.
Know what you are doing, do the oil change items in the best sequence, KEEP the O-RING in the right spot, lubricate it and it's just not a problem - until they age and become more fragile from heat cycles.

 

[Gladiatorguy]

You didn't drive it after the light came on, and it still showed oil pressure when you shut it down. Odds are they screwed up the O-ring installing the filter housing cap (one of many reasons I hate this terrible design). Makes a hell of a mess, it will require a new o-ring, but there's no damage done. Good luck cleaning all the oil that's dripped all over the top and sides of the engine, down onto the skids, and everywhere else. It will smell like burnt oil for a month or better. You can see the pinched O-ring in this pic after I had a similar experience. I'd push for them to cover a full detail job.

Same thing happened to me, except the check engine light didn’t come on until after I heard the telltale lifter noises. Pulled over, no oil on dipstick. Home was only a couple miles away. Added 3 qts, and made it home with good oil pressure. Had it towed back to dealer, who tried to blame it on a bad o-ring. I think badly installed o-ring. They did a good job cleaning up the residual mess. So far no problems or strange noises 14 k miles later, including a just completed on/off road 3 week 4,600 mi trip to Moab and western CO.

 

[Stan H]

I skipped all my free oil changes. I value my time, so it's actually cheaper doing them myself and done right. The round trip, gas and sitting around waiting ain't worth it to me.

Bam ! This

 

[Stan H]

Same thing happened to me, except the check engine light didn’t come on until after I heard the telltale lifter noises. Pulled over, no oil on dipstick. Home was only a couple miles away. Added 3 qts, and made it home with good oil pressure. Had it towed back to dealer, who tried to blame it on a bad o-ring. I think badly installed o-ring. They did a good job cleaning up the residual mess. So far no problems or strange noises 14 k miles later, including a just completed on/off road 3 week 4,600 mi trip to Moab and western CO.

I would have even had them change the engine. Period.

 

[WILDHOBO]

They already have, but for most, this is simply a non-issue.
A solution waiting for a problem.
You can indeed change the filter cap if you want, every 3 or 4 changes.
They make metal filter caps for these already, too.
But since the filter housing is also part of the oil cooler, it's not as simple as unscrewing one parts and screwing a simple, cheap adapter in place.
Over a decade of owning several Jeeps with the 3.6, it's just not been a problem.
Know what you are doing, do the oil change items in the best sequence, KEEP the O-RING in the right spot, lubricate it and it's just not a problem - until they age and become more fragile from heat cycles.

Yep. 100 percent.

 

[WILDHOBO]

My other car is a Porsche Boxster, which has a similar set up except it is on the bottom. Porsche says to replace the plastic housing after 3 uses. I found an adapter to replace the whole unit with an adapter and a spin on metal filter. Some genius needs to make on for the Jeep.

It’s been available for a long time. Baxter.

 

[Hootbro]

Past "Loss of oil" threads run the whole gambit of people saying "unacceptable", "demand a new engine" and other like things but most times, unless there is evident mechanical damage once it gets back to the dealer, it is going to be a refill the oil and send you on your way with best case being a token extended powertrain warranty.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Past "Loss of oil" threads run the whole gambit of people saying "unacceptable", "demand a new engine" and other like things but most times, unless there is evident mechanical damage once it gets back to the dealer, it is going to be a refill the oil and send you on your way with best case being a token extended powertrain warranty.

Yup, this ^^^. They won’t do a tear down to look for damage if it’s not heard. I’d be doing oil analysis reports to watch for elevated wear metals. The reports alone, if bad, isn’t enough to kick the “concern dial” of the dealership up because they aren’t trained to know how to read them and they’d only look at you like deer in the headlights. They have to hear something… but even then, would they do something?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yup, this ^^^. They won’t do a tear down to look for damage if it’s not heard. I’d be doing oil analysis reports to watch for elevated wear metals. The reports alone, if bad, isn’t enough to kick the “concern dial” of the dealership up because they aren’t trained to know how to read them and they’d only look at you like deer in the headlights. They have to hear something… but even then, would they do something?

Elevated wear metals, as well as other things showing up in a report, can also mean something going on unrelated to the one instance where it ran low on oil. There's nothing to connect the two.
In fact, engines can go a while with no oil pressure and not suffer catastrophic damage.
Running it down to 0 oil pressure and shutting it down is unlikely to cause damage - depending on the load, RPM and other factors, including the very oil that's being used at the time.

In other words, if i was a dealer service manager and you came in 10,000 miles later with an oil analysis that showed elevated wear metals - I'd probably say "so?"..

 

[WILDHOBO]

Past "Loss of oil" threads run the whole gambit of people saying "unacceptable", "demand a new engine" and other like things but most times, unless there is evident mechanical damage once it gets back to the dealer, it is going to be a refill the oil and send you on your way with best case being a token extended powertrain warranty.

I would only push for that if the vehicle was driven without any oil.

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