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Show me your high mileage 3.6 with oil recommendations !

Stan H

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I’m just gonna do 4 quarts 0-20 and one quart 5-30 and call it 3w-24
Now that's a great question does mixing a heavier and a thinner grade of the same make result in a in-between viscosity?
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Mr Miami

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I’m just gonna do 4 quarts 0-20 and one quart 5-30 and call it 3w-24
And you will get a faction of people who will swear it makes their engines quieter, run smoother, get better MPG, reduces tooth decay, lowers cholesterol, etc.

Some people just are smarter than the engineers who design and test the engines over hundreds of thousands of hours and know which oil is better than the one specified by the manufacturer.

I wish I was that smart.
 

ShadowsPapa

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And you will get a faction of people who will swear it makes their engines quieter, run smoother, get better MPG, reduces tooth decay, lowers cholesterol, etc.

Some people just are smarter than the engineers who design and test the engines over hundreds of thousands of hours and know which oil is better than the one specified by the manufacturer.

I wish I was that smart.
I wish it would cause a bit of global warming over the next couple of days...........


Now that's a great question does mixing a heavier and a thinner grade of the same make result in a in-between viscosity?
It turns it into an ATF superior to all others.
 

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Now that's a great question does mixing a heavier and a thinner grade of the same make result in a in-between viscosity?
Same concept of using Lucas Honey (heavy duty oil stabilizer) in a high milage engine to make it last a bit longer. It’s just a thicker oil that is supposed to coat the internals and prolong the life. Does it work? I dunno but I’ve done it on heavy duty engines and gotten pretty good life span out of them. Had over 375k out of a Vortec 7400 before I changed it out. It now has around 225k and I’m looking to rebuild the entire drive train with crate engine and transmission.
 

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Same concept of using Lucas Honey (heavy duty oil stabilizer) in a high milage engine to make it last a bit longer. It’s just a thicker oil that is supposed to coat the internals and prolong the life. Does it work? I dunno but I’ve done it on heavy duty engines and gotten pretty good life span out of them. Had over 375k out of a Vortec 7400 before I changed it out. It now has around 225k and I’m looking to rebuild the entire drive train with crate engine and transmission.
And if you hadn't used it - you'd likely be in the exact same situation. Nothing you add can "stabilize oil". I guess I'm surprised people still buy that stuff.............
 

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Some people just are smarter than the engineers who design and test the engines over hundreds of thousands of hours and know which oil is better than the one specified by the manufacturer.
Engineers I trust, at least when they are out of earshot of management. Management and manufacturers I do not. There are competing and conflicting goals in engineering and business. Make it too robust and it costs too much to produce, but it would last a long time. Use a thicker oil and it decreases their overall MPG numbers, but it would wear less (maybe). Add new features vs fixing longstanding problems because new features are flashier for marketing and sales. That kind of stuff. The goals of the manufacturer are not necessarily aligned with the best interest of the end user.

Is thicker oil better? Opinions vary. My opinion/theory is that it is marginally better. I don't care at all if there is disagreement about that but I do get nervy when someone states their opinion as settled science and absolute fact when it is far from it. And appealing to authority (i.e., "the engineers who designed it are smarter than you and therefore specified the best oil") is not a valid logical argument.
 

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Thicker oil does not necessarily equate to less wear. That's been proven
 

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Thicker oil does not necessarily equate to less wear. That's been proven
With as late in the game for the engine as I was I don’t think it did any harm. I knew the engine was worn and when a 7.4l gas engine is worn there’s not a real good way or reason to try and save it. They get used like the heavy duty engine they are so it’s time to change it out. I just didn’t feel like shelling out the cash for a crate engine at the time so I tried to make it last a scunch longer.
 

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8400 miles on the odometer. Using my two free oil changes first then switching over to amsoil. I use amsoil in my f150 and mustang gt.
 

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Amsoil 0W-20 Signature Series upon first oil change . 41 miles when I drove it off the lot. Now with over 150 thousand. Zero internal parts replaced . Water pump at 118 thousand.

Jeep Gladiator Show me your high mileage 3.6 with oil recommendations ! 20260214_161744


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I swear by the recommended oil. These threads are silly. If I ever could not get the recommended oil, I'd still get the recommended oil, but maybe Valvoline brand.
 

Stan H

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I swear by the recommended oil. These threads are silly. If I ever could not get the recommended oil, I'd still get the recommended oil, but maybe Valvoline brand.
They are a little silly its so funny how we read or see one video of someone using X-grade and then we are like well maybe I could ,or should I , or is there something to it . 😂 I agree wholeheartedly.
 

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I swear by the recommended oil. These threads are silly. If I ever could not get the recommended oil, I'd still get the recommended oil, but maybe Valvoline brand.
Yes, but a friend of my brother-in-law's friends uncle knew of someone who used SuperRally -5W53 and increased his MPG's by 30% and ran it for 500k miles until he sold it to someone who ran it for 200k more and it still doesn't burn a drop of oil.

But like so many others, he knows more than the people who design and test the engines for 10's of thousands of hours,
 

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I have not seen a jeep engineer show proof of such claims of running an engine for thousands of hours. But I just watched Nissan run the 3.8l at redline for 100 hours straight glowing red and didn't fail. I did just do my first oil change at 3600 miles and used pensoil platnium 5w30 and honestly noticed it was slightly less rattly up top. But I think next change I'll just go for the Amsoil 0W-20 Signature Series and just change it ever 4~5k miles and call it good. When I bought my jeep I knew the cams are the week point of the engine and already had my 2020 trailhawk cams @43k miles changed under warrenty. At least the Jeeps can make it off the dealer lot without exploding.. cough GM and Toyota..... I think location and how its driven drives how to maintain your vehicle. If you drive in the city more maybe change it more often because of all the Idling and short trips Contaminating faster with Condensation and gas mixing into the oil than a highway driven truck.
 

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I have not seen a jeep engineer show proof of such claims of running an engine for thousands of hours. But I just watched Nissan run the 3.8l at redline for 100 hours straight glowing red and didn't fail. I did just do my first oil change at 3600 miles and used pensoil platnium 5w30 and honestly noticed it was slightly less rattly up top. But I think next change I'll just go for the Amsoil 0W-20 Signature Series and just change it ever 4~5k miles and call it good. When I bought my jeep I knew the cams are the week point of the engine and already had my 2020 trailhawk cams @43k miles changed under warrenty. At least the Jeeps can make it off the dealer lot without exploding.. cough GM and Toyota..... I think location and how its driven drives how to maintain your vehicle. If you drive in the city more maybe change it more often because of all the Idling and short trips Contaminating faster with Condensation and gas mixing into the oil than a highway driven truck.
You can simply go by the oil life monitor - it tracks all of that stuff, proven by Lake Speed Jr. and is more accurate than you could ever be.

This is yet another thread beating a whole herd of dead horses until even the coyotes won't eat on them.
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