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'23 Gladiator Sport S Towing

Janster

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I would agree with most of the above, if the OP hadn't said he usually only tows 1 single mile each way, and a max of 10 miles round trip.
I agree...... on the short trip thing... however........

That'll never be the case. We all know how that ends up. 😉
Next thing you know, your family is planning a trip somewhere far away - you're scratching your head and say... SURE!!! I can bring the boat!!!! That'd be fun as hell!!! 😂
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That's what I've been thinking as well. I have Mojave tires and wheels, so they are 285s vs the stock 245s, so I am up in tire size some amount. Also, Auto transmission as previously asked. Thank you
Even if you DID have a max tow - you just took that away with the tire change.
The max tow comes with the smaller tires for a huge reason and most here will argue to the end of the world about it that it doesn't matter - but in the engineering world, engine heat rejection and other factors - it matters a LOT.
If it was a max tow, it isn't any more.
 

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I’ve run 3.73 and 4.10 and 4.10 definitely feels better off the line and less strained. Not a massive difference, but noticeable.
At 6k you’re basically maxed out. For short ramp trips you could regear to 4.56 and it’ll feel way better than 4.10. If you plan to tow it a lot, though, a half ton will just do it easier.
I easily towed 5,000 pounds with 3.73 gears in an Overland.
6,000 is maxed out for everything except max tow and Rubicon.
I can't imagine trying 6,000 pounds in anything less than a max tow with stock tires.
 

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I would weigh the truck and the truck with the boat to know exactly what each weighs. Axle weights would be helpful so you can compare actual loads with the axle ratings on the door tag. For the short distances you tow and the minor differences between the models with and without max tow i would not be to concerned about it unless the trailer gets up near 7K lbs unless it ends up exceeding the trucks rear axle rating. I would not regear or spend the money on the other changes unless it was something i wanted anyway. As long as you have some experience are comfortable towing and you use the appropriate precautions a short pull back and forth to the ramp putting it in the water and pulling it up the boat ramp or a short run to fuel up should not be an issue. At the ramp you can use 4 low when backing in and launching and when pulling it straight up the ramp giving you plenty of torque multiplication and increasing traction.
 

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I am still slightly surprised that the '25 Rubicon gets noticeably worse mpg than the '21 max tow with the same trans, gears, and tires (and computer adjusted for the tire change), but the Rubi does seem to wind the gears more.

Which brings up another point now that you mention going to taller tires. Make sure to reprogram the computer for the correct tire size (and gear ratio if you go that route too). On these newer vehicles, it does a lot more than just correct the speedometer. If you haven't done it yet, I might even suggest that before regearing. The change in transmission parameters might be all you need for such limited towing.
The rubi has a taller suspension i think its 1.5inch higher so its blocking more wind
 

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The first thing to do is flip that jack up, lol!
(I'm guessing this was just a photo op and you don't really trailer like that)

Get the computer reprogrammed for the bigger tires and a set of airbags for the rear... assuming the trailer is REALLY set up right for the proper tongue weight... which I would never assume.
 

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Forgot to say, any tow over 2500-3000lbs requires trailer brakes and a brake controller, that's in the owners manual. Heck even Surge brakes would be good, and they don't require a brake controller.
- People with new trucks are spoiled when towing, those new controllers can modulate the trailer brakes based on things like: steering input vs actual movement combined, pitch/yaw, speed, hill angle up/down/left/right, and more.

Also I was going to add you can use 4L when backing/pulling near the water in a straight line, makes a HUGE difference with reverse (at least on the manuals), but a couple others beat me to it.

The wider axles from the Rubicon are full-floating vs the sports with semi-floating. The wider stance just helps with roll-over a bit more than anything. The Mojave gets thicker axles tubes than the rest.


Man, guess I need to get to work on the 2L code for a function 2L mod (current kit by another company was pulled due to issues, allegedly).
 

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The rubi has a taller suspension i think its 1.5inch higher so its blocking more wind
No, not really. Myth.
 

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Forgot to say, any tow over 2500-3000lbs requires trailer brakes and a brake controller, that's in the owners manual. Heck even Surge brakes would be good, and they don't require a brake controller.
- People with new trucks are spoiled when towing, those new controllers can modulate the trailer brakes based on things like: steering input vs actual movement combined, pitch/yaw, speed, hill angle up/down/left/right, and more.

Also I was going to add you can use 4L when backing/pulling near the water in a straight line, makes a HUGE difference with reverse (at least on the manuals), but a couple others beat me to it.

The wider axles from the Rubicon are full-floating vs the sports with semi-floating. The wider stance just helps with roll-over a bit more than anything. The Mojave gets thicker axles tubes than the rest.


Man, guess I need to get to work on the 2L code for a function 2L mod (current kit by another company was pulled due to issues, allegedly).
Sorry, no, they are not different axles. Not full floating. Not sure where you got that.
Lots of bad info in this thread, as it always goes when towing and weights comes up. Hope he ignores a couple of other posts here
 

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Dilly’S Willy

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Sorry, no, they are not different axles. Not full floating. Not sure where you got that.
Lots of bad info in this thread, as it always goes when towing and weights comes up. Hope he ignores a couple of other posts here
Andddd that's why I don't like modern internet, less accurate "sources" than a decade ago.

Ignore the part about floating axles.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Andddd that's why I don't like modern internet, less accurate "sources" than a decade ago.

Ignore the part about floating axles.
My son works with AI...meaning training it, and so on. It is so not ready yet. It's supposed to be "friendly" so will never say I don't know, and will actually lie. It's also based a lot on what humans post on forums and so on, so often just repeats bad info. The source for a lot of AI searching is from FB and forums, and it can't tell fact from mistakes or bad info. It has little idea of context
 

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The first thing to do is flip that jack up, lol!
(I'm guessing this was just a photo op and you don't really trailer like that)

Get the computer reprogrammed for the bigger tires and a set of airbags for the rear... assuming the trailer is REALLY set up right for the proper tongue weight... which I would never assume.
Yeah, there's a lot of goofy "advice" in this, yet another tow thread, but until now, no one talked tongue weight and so on. And the earlier bit about going by axle weight, saying basically it's all fine if you don't exceed that, horrible info.
Tongue weight against payload has been ignored, as if it's all fine if you just don't exceed that. Horrible advice.

It's dangerous enough out there without some of the stuff seen as "advice" or "opinions" on towing on the internet, including here, at times
 

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My son works with AI...meaning training it, and so on. It is so not ready yet. It's supposed to be "friendly" so will never say I don't know, and will actually lie. It's also based a lot on what humans post on forums and so on, so often just repeats bad info. The source for a lot of AI searching is from FB and forums, and it can't tell fact from mistakes or bad info. It has little idea of context
It's the old GIGO situation...GIGO = Garbage In, Garbage Out.
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