Chris's Sport S Max Tow - Boring Daily 'Build'

[ChrisNLA]

Damn you. That’s quite nice. Now I have to resist it? Thanks a lot!

I doubt I buy soon.

As it is I may end up just folding the back seat head rest down flat and strapping the Starlink to it for the short term rather than expensive mount I might not like I'm not sure mounting in the rear ceiling is gonna be my favorite bet. I have backseat passengers sometimes and not sure how its gonna affect headroom. Need to sit back there and see.

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[WILDHOBO]

I doubt I buy soon.

As it is I may end up just folding the back seat head rest down flat and strapping the Starlink to it for the short term rather than expensive mount I might not like I'm not sure mounting in the rear ceiling is gonna be my favorite bet. I have backseat passengers sometimes and not sure how its gonna affect headroom. Need to sit back there and see.

It’s also just bent steel. I could probably make one. Or two.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Damn you. That’s quite nice. Now I have to resist it? Thanks a lot!

I resemble this statement!!!! Had me looking at that and then the diesel dual battery setup AGAIN. I resisted looking for so long too!!!!

 

[WILDHOBO]

I resemble this statement!!!! Had me looking at that and then the diesel dual battery setup AGAIN. I resisted looking for so long too!!!!

I had to close the browser.

 

[RudeJeepin]

I resemble this statement!!!! Had me looking at that and then the diesel dual battery setup AGAIN. I resisted looking for so long too!!!!

Is the 2nd battery still under rear seat on the diesel kit?

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Is the 2nd battery still under rear seat on the diesel kit?

Yes. It’s under the hood for the gas kit but you can use the diesel kit on either gas or diesel. I prefer the diesel kit as it saves space under the hood.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Rear diff cover swapped. Bought three quarts of fluid - really needed four, but that's all Oreillys had. Went with 75W-140 for both ends. Front cover will have to wait for more fluid. Rear end took two quarts and I bet the front will end up needing more than the one quart.

I'll get my steering stabilizer relocation and FAD skid on the way and do that at same time as diff front diff cover.

Bought the limited slip stuff just in case. If the rear end sounds fine I can always return it.

Always need a spare tube of grease.

My truck is on the power steering recall list. Inspected it myself while changing the oil. Looks like a pass to me. Won't sweat it. This can wait until later this year when I take the truck in to get a couple other things addressed.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Rear diff cover swapped. Bought three quarts of fluid - really needed four, but that's all Oreillys had. Went with 75W-140 for both ends. Front cover will have to wait for more fluid. Rear end took two quarts and I bet the front will end up needing more than the one quart.

I'll get my steering stabilizer relocation and FAD skid on the way and do that at same time as diff front diff cover.

Bought the limited slip stuff just in case. If the rear end sounds fine I can always return it.

Always need a spare tube of grease.

My truck is on the power steering recall list. Inspected it myself while changing the oil. Looks like a pass to me. Won't sweat it. This can wait until later this year when I take the truck in to get a couple other things addressed.

Looks great. Power steering pump wiring looks good. I need to check mine as well. I’ve obviously been parking mine at Walmart since the recall came out.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Had mild death wobble on the way to work this morning.

One of the same sweeping left hand curves over a torn up bridge expansion joint that started to reveal the drag link was going bad previously.

So. I'll get under there and check that soon. See if the ends are getting weak.

I was going to get a Metalcloak tie rod to match my drag link, but the MC tie rod doesn't work with stock wheels. The Yeti XD appears to, though, so that will be what I get if the tie rod is suspect.

https://steersmarts.com/products/ye...d-assembly-jl-jlu-2018?variant=44515463659681

More to come on that.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Starlink Mini came in. A bit unnecessary but I want to spend some time traveling again and this will be nice to have. We'll also be utilizing it as emergency backup internet for the house. Where we live internet can go out frequently during storms and phone service is poor without it.

Anyway.

This might be a little 'ghetto' but I will call it 'creative'. I didn't like some of the mounting ideas that had the Starlink using up the headspace above the back seat.

But guess where it fits perfectly? Above the sound bar.

So I dug some foam tape out of the collection and added strips to the top, bottom, and sides where it would contact the roof or sound bar.

The included kickstand stays on the Starlink. If I need to use it away from the truck I can just remove it from the truck and set it up elsewhere with the included cord and 115VAC brick.

And to remove it you just cut this one big ass zip tie that is looped through the kickstand and around the sound bar. It did not rattle or move on my 35 mile drive to work this morning. The top touches the roof and the bottom touches the sound bar. It is literally a perfect fit, and no cost.

I keep a few bags of enormous zip ties in the truck so re-installing it takes just a moment.

This wiring mess is temporary for testing only today.

It performed fine from the small inverter I had. I looked back and it claims to be a pure sine wave inverter. I'm sure that's debatable as it is not a particularly expensive product, but the Starlink worked fine and did not produce any electrical noise as some folks said they do with poor power supply.

I also found where a few folks claimed Starlink had documentation at one point that claimed a modified sine wave inverter was fine for the Mini, but that information is gone from the website.

Finally, the a consensus seemed to be that since it is converting 12VDC to 115VAC back to 30VDC that the 'noise' getting beyond the Starlink brick would be minimal.

In any case, I ordered a 5521 barrel plug pigtail (that's the connector that the Mini uses) and will likely wire it direct to the truck. I have a 10G hot wire in the center console and I'll break that with a relay (triggered by the aux ignition wire under the passenger side dash) so that the Mini only runs with the truck.

On the way to work this morning I had speeds between 40MBPS and 170MBPS depending on speed, direction, and tree cover. Nice.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Starlink Mini came in. A bit unnecessary but I want to spend some time traveling again and this will be nice to have. We'll also be utilizing it as emergency backup internet for the house. Where we live internet can go out frequently during storms and phone service is poor without it.

Anyway.

This might be a little 'ghetto' but I will call it 'creative'. I didn't like some of the mounting ideas that had the Starlink using up the headspace above the back seat.

But guess where it fits perfectly? Above the sound bar.

So I dug some foam tape out of the collection and added strips to the top, bottom, and sides where it would contact the roof or sound bar.

The included kickstand stays on the Starlink. If I need to use it away from the truck I can just remove it from the truck and set it up elsewhere with the included cord and 115VAC brick.

And to remove it you just cut this one big ass zip tie that is looped through the kickstand and around the sound bar. It did not rattle or move on my 35 mile drive to work this morning. The top touches the roof and the bottom touches the sound bar. It is literally a perfect fit, and no cost.

I keep a few bags of enormous zip ties in the truck so re-installing it takes just a moment.

This wiring mess is temporary for testing only today.

It performed fine from the small inverter I had. I looked back and it claims to be a pure sine wave inverter. I'm sure that's debatable as it is not a particularly expensive product, but the Starlink worked fine and did not produce any electrical noise as some folks said they do with poor power supply.

I also found where a few folks claimed Starlink had documentation at one point that claimed a modified sine wave inverter was fine for the Mini, but that information is gone from the website.

Finally, the a consensus seemed to be that since it is converting 12VDC to 115VAC back to 30VDC that the 'noise' getting beyond the Starlink brick would be minimal.

In any case, I ordered a 5521 barrel plug pigtail (that's the connector that the Mini uses) and will likely wire it direct to the truck. I have a 10G hot wire in the center console and I'll break that with a relay (triggered by the aux ignition wire under the passenger side dash) so that the Mini only runs with the truck.

On the way to work this morning I had speeds between 40MBPS and 170MBPS depending on speed, direction, and tree cover. Nice.

View attachment 477606

That size difference is really tempting me to swap out my large high performance panel.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Had mild death wobble on the way to work this morning.

One of the same sweeping left hand curves over a torn up bridge expansion joint that started to reveal the drag link was going bad previously.

So. I'll get under there and check that soon. See if the ends are getting weak.

I was going to get a Metalcloak tie rod to match my drag link, but the MC tie rod doesn't work with stock wheels. The Yeti XD appears to, though, so that will be what I get if the tie rod is suspect.

https://steersmarts.com/products/ye...d-assembly-jl-jlu-2018?variant=44515463659681

More to come on that.

Ya know if you structure this right you could get crazy with it. You could say that the link needs replaced so you may need to install a new cast iron knuckle. And if you go for a cast iron knuckle you may as well get high steer. If you get high steer there’s a height requirement so you’d need to lift it. If you lift it it’s gonna look hinky on stock sized tires so you’d need bigger tires. (Because no wife wants to ride in a rig with hinky looking tires). And once you add all this up and get to installing it and the wife says WTH you just reference this whole line of thought and classify it all as “maintenance”.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Ya know if you structure this right you could get crazy with it. You could say that the link needs replaced so you may need to install a new cast iron knuckle. And if you go for a cast iron knuckle you may as well get high steer. If you get high steer there’s a height requirement so you’d need to lift it. If you lift it it’s gonna look hinky on stock sized tires so you’d need bigger tires. (Because no wife wants to ride in a rig with hinky looking tires). And once you add all this up and get to installing it and the wife says WTH you just reference this whole line of thought and classify it all as “maintenance”.

My wife once asked why I have so many “problems” with our Jeep. I replied that we really don’t. Except the ones I cause.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

My wife once asked why I have so many “problems” with our Jeep. I replied that we really don’t. Except the ones I cause.

That was really me letting my brain breathe. I’ve been looking at charts and trading strategies and back testing for a couple hours. My head was about to explode from overload.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Ya know if you structure this right you could get crazy with it. You could say that the link needs replaced so you may need to install a new cast iron knuckle. And if you go for a cast iron knuckle you may as well get high steer. If you get high steer there’s a height requirement so you’d need to lift it. If you lift it it’s gonna look hinky on stock sized tires so you’d need bigger tires. (Because no wife wants to ride in a rig with hinky looking tires). And once you add all this up and get to installing it and the wife says WTH you just reference this whole line of thought and classify it all as “maintenance”.

If only my wallet was shaped that nicely

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