Pulling a Camper

[MomsSpaghetti]

Yeah, everyone told us the progression is pop-up for a few years then to a regular travel trailer. You get tired of the lack of cabinet, storage and refrigerator space as well as the up to load it prior to camping, down to travel to the campsite, up when you get there, down to pack up and head home, up to clean it out, down to park it until next time. That's exactly what happened. This will be much nicer. Headed out next weekend to break the new one in.

@TennesseePA did you decide on what you were going to get? I know you were looking at one a week or so ago

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[DMC1]

I’ll be pulling my Intech Pursue behind my Gladiator.

 

[TennesseePA]

Yeah, everyone told us the progression is pop-up for a few years then to a regular travel trailer. You get tired of the lack of cabinet, storage and refrigerator space as well as the up to load it prior to camping, down to travel to the campsite, up when you get there, down to pack up and head home, up to clean it out, down to park it until next time. That's exactly what happened. This will be much nicer. Headed out next weekend to break the new one in.

@TennesseePA did you decide on what you were going to get? I know you were looking at one a week or so ago

Actually I have put everything on hold right now because we may be bringing two more children into our home. If they do get to come live with us we will either have to buy a new house or add bedrooms to our current house.

 

[dirtchicken]

 

[dirtchicken]

This has been fine. 2015 25 FB 5600 ish dry. Prob 6600 - 6800 Florida to Maine full time since June 15. Jeep feels it but does just fine and has been in the east coast version of mountains. Once it’s rolling it’s no prob. Run about 70 on the highway getting 11.8 Major ! problems with brake controller- till I went with a wireless and that has performed admirably. I think the cross path detection and auto braking screws with the controller - imho.

35s and a 2” are next. Will keep you posted how that affects things

 

[TrailHiker]

Interesting. The dakota made 35 more ft/lb of torque at ~800rpm lower than the 3.6. My dakota was also lighter than the gladiator by a couple hundred pounds and had 3.92 gears with shorter tires (29.5 vs 32.7) meaning my dakota actually had a lower final axle ratio on the ground than the gladiator. Based on the simple gearing charts @65mph the dakota 3.92 with 29" tires would spin a driveshaft at ~2900 rpm vs gladiator 4.10 with 33" tires at ~2700 But then again, I also wasn't towing through the mountains in high altitude. I'm sure the dakota would weeze at 6500k pounds going up the ike gauntlet too.

I'm not convinced on the differences in suspension making a huge difference. I have towed with old leaf springs and coil springs didn't really notice any difference towing with one versus the other. Maybe coils make a huge difference above 10k lb.

Dakota also had the old 9.25 axle which was for all the world darn close to a dana 60. just with c clips and slight taper on the axle shafts. Not that a heavier axle directly impacts real world towing performance.

Id like to see a dyno graph of both vehicles side by side to see how each vehicles power curves look per RPM.

First a disclaimer, neither the Dakota or the JT is a first class tow vehicle, they are both mid size trucks that can tow a reasonably sized small trailer. I would personally not use either one to tow a full size tractor, a large boat, or a 6K lb 24-foot RV. In my opinion, those jobs are best left to a full size truck (like a Ram 3500) designed to two those large trailer rigs. You want your towing truck/rig to weigh more than the trailer load. Any trailer that weighs more than half the tow vehicle, needs a load leveler/equalizer. You should think twice before towing something that weighs more than the tow vehicle, and you should not exceed the rated towing capacity.

I had a 2002\Dakota Club Cab with towing package rated at 5K lbs, while it could tow 4500lbs, it had a longer braking distance, the rear ended would break traction (no trailer) on mountain paved roads in tight curves, and acceleration was not that good with the V6. Pulling a loaded trailer at around 4K lbs was not fun, especially on mountain two lane roads. I would not consider trying to two a 5K lbs load with the Dakota, it had a hard time with 4K lbs trailer.

My Jeep Gladiator Sport S has 7K Tow package, tows the same 4K load much easier with better acceleration. While it can tow 7K, I doubt I would exceed 4500 lbs, and would consider this only because of the better oversized brakes on the JT. The Rear end does not slide or skip in turns and has much better braking, stopping in less distance than the Dakota required. The load is a Kubota B7200 tractor with skip loader on a 12-foot steel tilting equipment trailer, around 4K lbs.

The JT performance is much better. Same goes for my 1.5 cubic yard dumping trailer, with the Dakota I could feel the loaded trailer hauling 1/2 cord of firewood more than I do with the JT, hardly know the trailer is there. The JT pulls like a larger truck, but again just because it can do it,I do not plan on towing an excessive load. I would try to keep the towed load weight close to the JT’s loaded weight whilst towing.
Cheers

 

[WXman]

First a disclaimer, neither the Dakota or the JT is a first class tow vehicle, they are both mid size trucks that can tow a reasonably sized small trailer. I would not use either one to tow a full size tractor, a large boat, or a 6K lb 24-foot RV. Those jobs are best left to a full size truck designed to two those large trailer rigs. You want your towing truck/rig to weigh more than the trailer load. Any trailer that weighs more than half the tow vehicle, needs a load leveler/equalizer. You should think twice before towing something that weighs more than the tow vehicle, and you should not exceed the rated towing capacity.

I had a 2002\Dakota Club Cab with towing package rated at 5K lbs, while it could tow 4500lbs, it had a longer braking distance, the rear ended would break traction (no trailer) on mountain paved roads in tight curves, and acceleration was not that good with the V6. Pulling a loaded trailer at around 4K lbs was not fun, especially on mountain two lane roads. I would not consider trying to two a 5K lbs load with the Dakota, it had a hard time with 4K lbs trailer.

My Jeep Gladiator Sport S has 7K Tow package, tows the same 4K load much easier with better acceleration. While it can tow 7K, I doubt I would exceed 4500 lbs, and would consider this only because of the better oversized brakes on the JT. The Rear end does not slide or skip in turns and has much better braking, stopping in less distance than the Dakota required. The load is a Kubota B7200 tractor with skip loader on a 12-foot steel tilting equipment trailer, around 4K lbs.

The JT performance is much better. Same goes for my 1.5 cubic yard dumping trailer, with the Dakota I could feel the loaded trailer hauling 1/2 cord of firewood more than I do with the JT, hardly know the trailer is there. The JT pulls like a larger truck, but again just because it can do it,I do not plan on towing an excessive load. I would try to keep the towed load weight close to the JT’s loaded weight whilst towing.
Cheers

In case you haven't checked lately, full size trucks weigh the same as a Gladiator. In fact I think the Gladiator Rubicon weighs more than a F-150 Supercrew 4x4.

Also, if we needed the tow rig to weigh as much as the load being towed, a Ram 3500 diesel would be capped at 7,500 lbs towing capacity and semi trucks wouldn't exist.

The Gladiator will handle work loads as well as any full size half ton truck on the market. I've towed heavy with them all and they all feel the same cruising down the highway with a trailer.

 

[TrailHiker]

A Jeep Gladiator weighs 4600-5K lbs, Ram 150 4800-5K lbs, and a Ram 250/350 6K to 8K lbs.
I was expressing my opinion, not stating any facts in my previous post, Tow what you like with whatever you like, it is up to you, and your risk. I was only saying what I would do, and I was referring to a larger truck like a 2500 or 3500 Tuck, not a 1500 or a Ford 150. I was merely sharing my experience with a Dakota vs my JT, nothing more. Also a JT, and and most smaller trucks (1/2 ton included) have a rest iction on the total front area of a trailer being towed. Also towing heavier trailers safely depends on your hitch setup, “if the trailer weighs more than 50 percent of the pulling vehicle's weight, it should have a weight distribution hitch,” according to eTrailer. They also state you should not exceed your tow vehicle’s Max tow weight rating.

Most equipment rental companies will not hook up a 4-6K equipment load on anything smaller than a 3/4 ton truck, like a Ram 2500, regardless of what the smaller truck/vehicle’s towing rating is. The risk of townign something that is twice as heavy or more of your Tow vehicle weight, it the load can start to push the smaller tow vehicle around. Big rigs with 5-wheel setups are a different dynamic, and is comparing apples to oranges.

Commercial tractor and trailer rigs also have weight restrictions, depending on local state laws.
One of my first investigations was a truck rig loaded with steel pipes, that tore loose and crushed the drive and cab of his truck when the rig got away from him. I have seen other accidents that were also the result of a light weight towing vehicle loosing control of a trailer that was too heavy for them to safely manage.

You can tow a 7-8K rig with your 4K lbs mid size truck, I choose not to.
Cheers

 

[ShadowsPapa]

In case you haven't checked lately, full size trucks weigh the same as a Gladiator. In fact I think the Gladiator Rubicon weighs more than a F-150 Supercrew 4x4.

Also, if we needed the tow rig to weigh as much as the load being towed, a Ram 3500 diesel would be capped at 7,500 lbs towing capacity and semi trucks wouldn't exist.

The Gladiator will handle work loads as well as any full size half ton truck on the market. I've towed heavy with them all and they all feel the same cruising down the highway with a trailer.

Typical semi tractor about 18,000 pounds - and they pull loads 3 times that.

My Silverado 1500 V8 automatic transmission extended cab - 5,212 lbs curb weight.
JT Rubicon standard model with manual transmission - 5,050 curb weight. Add about 22 or 25 pounds for automatic
162 pounds difference. Less with Rubicon automatic, about 140 pounds difference.

Key - working trailer brakes - and the JT's electronic controls.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Also towing heavier trailers safely depends on your hitch setup, “if the trailer weighs more than 50 percent of the pulling vehicle's weight, it should have a weight distribution hitch,” according to eTrailer. They also state you should not exceed your tow vehicle’s Max tow weight rating.

If that was the case, an EMPTY car hauler would require a weight distributing hitch.
And yet the makers and sellers say "not necessary".
Most of the guys hauling their cars to events run without such hitches, no troubles. Their issues are with lack of properly securing the car to the trailer.

I hauled my PJ trailer with a car behind my Chevy for 9 years - the trailer with car on it - 5400 pounds.
My truck - 5200 pounds.
My car hauler with car was about 200 pounds heavier than my truck.
Chevrolet recommended a weight distributing hitch for loads over 5,000 pounds. It's in their book.
No issues, even when needing to make "heavy braking" due to ding-dongs leaving the Iowa/Iowa State games on I80. No issues in rain or wind.
No sway, never even close to losing control. I hauled to Ohio multiple times, Indiana multiple times, southern MO a couple of times.
Wind could be a different matter on a TALL rig - a camper. Wind is my biggest fear with towing tall stuff.

 

[TrailHiker]

I agree, a car hauler, like a tractor flat bed setup, is low and has a lower center of gravity, which helps with stability. I was referring more to hauling around box boxy trailers and large RV trailers with their higher center of gravity and large sail area. Your rig was close in matching and would not be an issue I would not think.
Cheers

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I agree, a car hauler, like a tractor flat bed setup, is low and has a lower center of gravity, which helps with stability. I was referring more to hauling around box boxy trailers and large RV trailers with their higher center of gravity and large sail area. Your rig was close in matching and would not be an issue I would not think.
Cheers

Sorry if I missed your point - that happens with me now and then (ok, a lot, ok? LOL)
I agree with your thinking on higher things - campers will present WIND RESISTANCE, and side forces lower loads will not experience.
Thus I'd would never ever pull even a small camper without a different hitch. Raise the center of gravity and suddenly the thing can take control.
The winds we often have here cause issues with campers behind even bigger trucks - get in an open area, go past a grove of trees, then hit the open again, more than one person has found themselves sitting sideways in the ditch.
Physics, leverage, angles.............

 

[TrailHiker]

No worries Bill, and your added comments was my point.
Cheers

 

[Slapping_Rabbits]

Hey i just put in my order for a Rockwood geo pro 19bh! Its 3k lbs unloaded. So should i get a brake controller and show up with it on day one? Never really towed anything other than a very small trailer before so its going to be a learning experience. ALso, should i get a backup camera for it and show up with that on day one?

 

[Combolc]

Hey i just put in my order for a Rockwood geo pro 19bh! Its 3k lbs unloaded. So should i get a brake controller and show up with it on day one? Never really towed anything other than a very small trailer before so its going to be a learning experience. ALso, should i get a backup camera for it and show up with that on day one?

congrats on the new camper - Yes for sure - you should not tow without a controller at all. I believe it is illegal in some states and no reason to take a chance with new Jeep and new camper. Spend the few bucks and get a nice controller; backup camera optional. I use a Redarc tow pro elite controller in mine with the Nobo and its excellent, but there are plenty of options if you want less expensive out there just make sure you get the harness with the diode.

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