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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

CCDANIELS

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What about what my gladiator did TO me today. At 5036 miles, the check engine light came on and threw a code of P0300 as well as the Avengers sign (start/stop fault). Turn it off, then back on and now just a check engine light. Mmm... cleared it with the tazer and drove around for a while. Just waiting for it to come on again. Made an appointment for Thursday to have them check out what's going on and change the oil while it's there.
I've had mine come on a few times... only got it to the dealership twice. The first time they erased the stored code and said "have a good day". Second time they flashed the PCM. A week later the CEL and ESS are on. Already have an appointment for the 29th.... the other forum discussion on this doesnt look promising.... mostly seeing lemon laws...
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Gatorized

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I tried to do that yesterday when I was running out of options. I used a t55 and gave it a few good hits with the hammer but the teeth on the t55 was just tad too wide. I'm gonna sit on it for a few days and decide what to do.
The bolt head is ruined, so clean the paint off and tackweld a hex head to it and get it off.
You start hitting one of those impact drivers with a hammer and you miss on that aluminum door - it’s going to leave a mark!
 

bastage

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I Picked it up from American Vintage 4x4 in meridian Idaho. Had the Clayton overland 2.5" lift w/ Fox 2.0's, Synergy Sector Shaft Brace, JKS Quicker Disconnects & Motobilt Full belly Skidplate installed. The steering is night & day better. The lift is under rated. I didnt get a before measurement, but it seems to me its a good 2" taller then it was & it was already leveled 1.5" up in front.

Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] IMG_0733
 

WhatExit?

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Not today, but over the weekend. Finished up a door, Freedom Panel, and roof cart combo. Pretty happy with the way it came out. Can be stored in a narrow spot in the garage but can move easily when fully loaded. Also can use it just for the fronts off, all the doors off, or latched together for everything off.

Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] IMG_5819.JPG


Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] IMG_5815.JPG


Off course we had to test it out...

Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] IMG_5813.JPG
 

Deleted member 30519

The bolt head is ruined, so clean the paint off and tackweld a hex head to it and get it off.
You start hitting one of those impact drivers with a hammer and you miss on that aluminum door - it’s going to leave a mark!
I had my mechanic friend come over and he said he wanted to drill big enough bit through and by time it reaches the thread it will break loose but he wouldn't continue because he said I needed a bigger bit. To be continued.

Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] IMG_20200727_201208
 

trust

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If you can find one try using a left handed or reverse twist drill bit, they will often take the bolt out with them as you drill for the extractor.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Not today, but over the weekend. Finished up a door, Freedom Panel, and roof cart combo. Pretty happy with the way it came out. Can be stored in a narrow spot in the garage but can move easily when fully loaded. Also can use it just for the fronts off, all the doors off, or latched together for everything off.

IMG_5819.JPG


IMG_5815.JPG


Off course we had to test it out...

IMG_5813.JPG
SWEET! Nicely done. Bet you could sell plans............
 

Deleted member 30519

If you can find one try using a left handed or reverse twist drill bit, they will often take the bolt out with them as you drill for the extractor.
I just watched a video on it .. that's a great idea. Thanks
 

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ShadowsPapa

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JTRs don't really sit any higher stock...its the tires mostly.
I put Rubicon springs on the front of my Overland. I gained 1.125" height in the front measured at the receiver. Just shy of an inch measured at the bottom edge of the running board. When I got in the truck to drive around the section and settle things in, I could tell just sitting in it the front was higher.

When I got back, I put Sport S max tow on the rear and LOST .5" height at the receiver. The max tow springs are about 3/4" shorter than my Overland rear springs to begin with but held the weight a bit better so didn't settle as much, leaving a half inch loss in height of the rear.

BTW - Overland stock tires make my truck sit the same height as Rubicon stock tires - I swap back and forth and it doesn't even throw my speedometer off. Measured height, truck parts to ground remain the same.
But Rubicon springs did make my truck sit higher in front by a tad over an inch.
 
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bastage

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If you can find one try using a left handed or reverse twist drill bit, they will often take the bolt out with them as you drill for the extractor.
This right here is about the best advise you can be given... I bought a norseman extractor set with left handed bits sized appropriately for the extractors. Only 1 fastener has proven too much & its quite small & in a mid 1930's 5" wilton vise that I dont think has ever been apart.

This is the set I have
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Norseman-1...169403&hash=item2610d3639c:g:dmsAAOSwtaBcP7Jh
 

ShadowsPapa

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Once you start drilling, you are committed to drilling it out.

If there is any way to get a bite on it, I would try other methods first.

You might consider stopping by an auto body shop or a friendly dealer.
They have the hammer impacts because they use them to take off doors on regular cars.
It works well because when you hammer it, it forces the torx bit down into the bolt head and has less of a chance to strip it.
You can also try a one size bigger torx and try to hammer that into the bolt. You will probably ruin your torx bit, but at least you might be able to work it loose.


I have tried every trick in the book. From working on airplanes in the Navy to engineering some of the biggest superyachts in the world....use drilling as the last option as it's the most invasive.

D
Very true, but the back of the item has to be rock-solid otherwise you flex the part, or it moves, and you lose the advantage. I use the hammer impact a lot, almost daily in my work, I've broken them and broken their bits. Unless the part is back by something heavy or rock-solid, they don't work so well.
Here I am milling out a bolt after the impact failed.
I have had to remove three this way in the past few weeks and had it centered so perfectly, all that was left was the threats and a foil-thin layer of the bolt I just peeled out.
If I can get the item up here, if it will fit, if there's room, it's not on a car or truck, this is my solution. I control the exact depth and can dial in center near-perfect.
But it's a last resort........ yes.

Jeep Gladiator What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK] IMG_20200408_132331
 

ShadowsPapa

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Installed Rubicon take-off FOX shocks, Rubicon front springs and max tow rear springs.
Didn't like the DROP in height at the rear, liked the gain of height (1.125") at the front, though.
Maybe I should have put the Rubicon rears in, too.
 

Deleted member 30519

If you can find one try using a left handed or reverse twist drill bit, they will often take the bolt out with them as you drill for the extractor.
was gonna try this one out
If you can find one try using a left handed or reverse twist drill bit, they will often take the bolt out with them as you drill for the extractor.
I think I'm gonna give this a try tomorrow. It's in stock.

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