adjustable track bar - Really needed with only 2" lift

[ShadowsPapa]

The thing is, if you change your track bar, which you absolutely should, then you should also get your rig’s front end aligned as it will definitely be out after your adjustment. Just something to keep in mind

How can it be out of alignment by changing a track bar - other than the steering wheel centering?
You can't change the camber, that's set. You can only change caster with different/adjustable lower control arms, and the toe won't change with the trackbar change as it doesn't touch the spread of the tires as far as toe.

Even with just a lift, not changing the track bar, you need to recenter the steering wheel.

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[Silvertruck]

Toe caster and camber are all set on the relative position of the wheels under the truck. Straight one way 1 inch off center is a different setting than with wheels shifted. Ever seen a vehicle
Dog track? This isnt quite that but an alignment certainly assures you are back in spec.

 

[mtudb24]

More then just 1 on this forum with the issue with synergy. and there is more on the JL forum.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/mopar-lift-chirping.31955/page-3

Well, its going back. Not dealing with that crap. Guess I'll look at Yeti or something else. $275 dollars is crazy for something you have to worry about it fitting or not.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Toe caster and camber are all set on the relative position of the wheels under the truck. Straight one way 1 inch off center is a different setting than with wheels shifted. Ever seen a vehicle
Dog track? This isnt quite that but an alignment certainly assures you are back in spec.

You cannot change CAMBER. Can't be done.
I have done hundreds of alignments and front-end restorations. All that changes is the steering wheel centering.
If you put the front axle back at center under the vehicle, then even that should be close again.

You could shift that axle 2" to either side and it will NOT change camber.
It would only impact caster in that the truck would sit away from the axle, but no shop can "set" that.

Caster difference between left and right can't possibly be set or changed. It's a welded assembly.
Camber can't be changed - it's a welded assembly.
Toe will NOT change because the left and right wheels are connected DIRECTLY by the tie rod. Since you are NOT changing the position or length of the tie rod, you are not changing toe!
So by lifting you are NOT changing toe at all, and can't change camber at all. Caster is changed by the lift - you can't adjust that without different control arms.

 

[mtudb24]

You cannot change CAMBER. Can't be done.
I have done hundreds of alignments and front-end restorations. All that changes is the steering wheel centering.
If you put the front axle back at center under the vehicle, then even that should be close again.

You could shift that axle 2" to either side and it will NOT change camber.
It would only impact caster in that the truck would sit away from the axle, but no shop can "set" that.

Caster difference between left and right can't possibly be set or changed. It's a welded assembly.
Camber can't be changed - it's a welded assembly.
Toe will NOT change because the left and right wheels are connected DIRECTLY by the tie rod. Since you are NOT changing the position or length of the tie rod, you are not changing toe!
So by lifting you are NOT changing toe at all, and can't change camber at all. Caster is changed by the lift - you can't adjust that without different control arms.

And caster was done by the longer control arms that came with the kit. So should be good there

 

[ShadowsPapa]

And caster was done by the longer control arms that came with the kit. So should be good there

YES. Once you reach that point, about 2".......... you indeed should be good there.

I've thought about different control arms for mine since I got a bit of lift with the Rubicon springs and will be putting 3/4" spacers under to recover some of the height loss from the winch and bumper.

 

[Silvertruck]

You cannot change CAMBER. Can't be done.
I have done hundreds of alignments and front-end restorations. All that changes is the steering wheel centering.
If you put the front axle back at center under the vehicle, then even that should be close again.

You could shift that axle 2" to either side and it will NOT change camber.
It would only impact caster in that the truck would sit away from the axle, but no shop can "set" that.

Caster difference between left and right can't possibly be set or changed. It's a welded assembly.
Camber can't be changed - it's a welded assembly.
Toe will NOT change because the left and right wheels are connected DIRECTLY by the tie rod. Since you are NOT changing the position or length of the tie rod, you are not changing toe!
So by lifting you are NOT changing toe at all, and can't change camber at all. Caster is changed by the lift - you can't adjust that without different control arms.

ok man. Cool. You are right the c sections are a fixed assembly and in the case of the danas there’s no key or offset ball joints to change caster. My bad i slipped there.

I’m not on the forum to start flame wars so thanks for sharing that based on your extensive knowledge an owner shouldnt consider aligning their front end even when the position of the axle under the truck moves.

for my money I’m getting an alignment and resetting my steering by a pro. Results may vary.

 

[mtudb24]

YES. Once you reach that point, about 2".......... you indeed should be good there.

I've thought about different control arms for mine since I got a bit of lift with the Rubicon springs and will be putting 3/4" spacers under to recover some of the height loss from the winch and bumper.

I also have some Daystar spacers that I will have to install if the winch and bumper drop it more then my "acceptable rake". Bumper and winch are in garage but just may hold off a while and enjoy the truck as is. Only have had it 10 day so far

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I also have some Daystar spacers that I will have to install if the winch and bumper drop it more then my "acceptable rake". Bumper and winch are in garage but just may hold off a while and enjoy the truck as is. Only have had it 10 day so far

Guarantee you'll enjoy it.

 

[CTFriel]

Well, its going back. Not dealing with that crap. Guess I'll look at Yeti or something else. $275 dollars is crazy for something you have to worry about it fitting or not.

I Had the squeak. Barely noticeable. I run mostly Synergy components because they’re made in the ole USA. An angle grinder and a flap disk clearances the mount about 1/16”. Took longer to plug it in but to each his own.

 

[CTFriel]

ok man. Cool. You are right the c sections are a fixed assembly and in the case of the danas there’s no key or offset ball joints to change caster. My bad i slipped there.

I’m not on the forum to start flame wars so thanks for sharing that based on your extensive knowledge an owner shouldnt consider aligning their front end even when the position of the axle under the truck moves.

for my money I’m getting an alignment and resetting my steering by a pro. Results may vary.

not to argue but a “pro” will get your wheel no more center than you could with an OBD JScan, socket set, and channel locks. Then you can make a lot of tweaks on your own.

Centering the wheel cannot be done as a once and done. Not going to happen. You need to get it close (+\- 3*) then drive it a few miles and do it again. It’ll take 2 times or so to get it dialed in close to 0. If you get it closer than +\- 1.5* you’re a wizard.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

not to argue but a “pro” will get your wheel no more center than you could with an OBD JScan, socket set, and channel locks. Then you can make a lot of tweaks on your own.

Centering the wheel cannot be done as a once and done. Not going to happen. You need to get it close (+\- 3*) then drive it a few miles and do it again. It’ll take 2 times or so to get it dialed in close to 0. If you get it closer than +\- 1.5* you’re a wizard.

Ask some of those who had their JTs worked on, especially steering gear swaps - how close the pros got it - sometimes not very.
I've done alignments since the 1970s and even on old-school systems back then, there were times you came back and tweaked things after a test drive.

 

[Silvertruck]

I havent had any of those issues. Mopar lift caused the jeep to steer into the ground and the larger wheels caused the jeep to dance around. Very sloppy.

Chose to have adjustable LCAs, track bar, sector shaft brace and stronger drag link, ball joints, tie rod and stabilizer installed. Aligned and dead on. Later we Changed lift and reset all components. Again dead on. Like I said, results may vary.

 

[mtudb24]

After going round and round with synergy and their re-stocking fee and me having to pay to ship it back (since I didn't want to grind down a factory part on a $45K truck to make their part fit when other manufactures somehow made it work), I ended up biting the bullet and installing the track bar. Sure enough, it hit the bracket. Ground it down and made it work. Axle is now centered. To be honest, I feel no difference in ride or stability when I hit a bump etc. I'll chalk it up to lessons learned and move on. Oh well. Its only money right

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