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HELP !!! 2020 JT

DaddyG

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I snapped the bolt while backing out the forward most body mount bolt trying to install my Rock Hard sliders......there is approximately 2" of bolt left in there.....what next ? I've got the bolt drilled, but not all the way thru....I'm so pissed and upset, .I want to fuckin' puke !!!2020 JT
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I snapped the bolt while backing out the forward most body mount bolt trying to install my Rock Hard sliders......there is approximately 2" of bolt left in there.....what next ? I've got the bolt drilled, but not all the way thru....I'm so pissed and upset, .I want to fuckin' puke !!!2020 JT
Go to AutoZone and get a set of EasyOut screw extractors. They work great when stuff happens. Link below. $16

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...-3-4in-screw-extractor-set-5-piece/535518_0_0
 

Silvertruck

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The only fix i have seen for this involved cutting out the body mount on the body side and welding in a new one.

if you can drill the bolt all the way out it may be possible to re-tap but would involve a bigger bolt diameter. Extractors not typically very useful for a deep break as its hard to get them to bite.

edit - if extractor is just $16, may be worth the hail mary. Get a disposable torch too if you can safely heat the bolt side mount. Dont melt the isolator.


if you dont have luck i would stop and visit a body shop or trusted mechanic/offroad shop for advice.
 

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I snapped the bolt while backing out the forward most body mount bolt trying to install my Rock Hard sliders......there is approximately 2" of bolt left in there.....what next ? I've got the bolt drilled, but not all the way thru....I'm so pissed and upset, .I want to fuckin' puke !!!2020 JT
OK, If I understand you correctly there is still about 2" of bolt shaft protruding that you can get hold of. If that's correct, first saturate what's left of the bolt especially at the point where the bolt enters the mass material it is threaded into with a penetrating oil like WD-40. Let it soak for several minutes occasionally tapping it lightly on the end with a steel hammer. Remember... Lightly! Then grasp the bolt shank with a pair of vicegrips, the largest you can fit into there and then with a rocking motion gently twist the bolt both directions untiil you feel it begin to loosen up and then unscrew the bolt. If it is broken off at or near the surface, drill it out carefully using the size drill that fits the appropriate drill / bolt extractor. Follow the same penetrating oil usage as before and then screw the extractor into the drilled out bolt using a socket wrench or ratchet wrench. The bolt should extract. Afterward, run the appropriate tap into the female threads to assure there is no debris left in the pocket. Blow out with air and lubricate again and then replace the bolt. Be sure to wear safety glasses and good luck. Auto Zone has a great extractor set for about $17.00.
 

CWGrisw0ld

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Cut a small square out of the firewall for access to the bolt from the rear. Patch it later.
 

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rr11

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Bolt extractors work if you carefully follow the directions. If you don't take your time and carefully follow the instructions you will only have a bigger mess to deal with.
 

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First step: Relax. You are stressed and mad because you don't know what to do. This is a mechanics daily life and they know what to do.

Many ways to extract broken bolts.
  1. Weld a nut on.
  2. Drill a small hole and then use an extractor you find at your local shop
  3. If it's exposed, cut a slot with a dremel, and then a flat head screw driver
  4. If a lot is exposed, vise grips
  5. All else fails, Drill it completely. Use coolant oil and take your time if you go this route. You can always tap new threads. or just resort to using a longer bolt and a lock nut on the other side after you have completely drilled it out.
Now, I can't see what your situation is, but I'm sure there is a reasonable solution.
 

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Terry is giving good advice.

I would add that if you have a torch, I strongly recommend heating at this point. Also, as you are loosening, if it begins to pop or get very tight, reverse direction about half a turn. It'll help dislodge the locktite that is getting stuck in the threads.

No need to cut into the backside. If all your other body bolts are attached, its probably safe to drive a short distance to a local body shop, and they could have it out in less than 30 min and probably a $50 bill. I'd do that before cutting.
 

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I like what DLaw's first option about welding on a nut.

Remove the connections to the battery's to avoid circulating current when welding onto the bolt.
Disconnecting the battery(s) is optional but its cheap peace of mind.

If possible, connect the welder's ground above the new nut but still on the threads. of the broken bolt.
If there is not enough room to get the ground on the broken nut but enough room for two nuts, then weld a small tab on to a nut. Then install the nut with the tab onto the broken bolt. Use the tab to hold the ground lead.
Then weld on the new nut
The heat transfer should be enough to loosen the loctite.

Wish you were closer to NC, we could knock out this broken bolt issue in no time.
Of course this work would cost you a pizza. :D
 

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Curious of the outcome
 

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One of the reasons I have not ordered some Ace rock sliders is my fear of breaking a body mount bolt.
I guess if I get any fatter, and start blowing out Levi's trying to get in the Jeep, I may rethink this.
 

Summitsearcher

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One of the reasons I have not ordered some Ace rock sliders is my fear of breaking a body mount bolt.
I guess if I get any fatter, and start blowing out Levi's trying to get in the Jeep, I may rethink this.
Hahaha Dave! I blow out my Levi’s for other reasons. I need to stay out of the bean dip!
 
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DaddyG

DaddyG

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The only fix i have seen for this involved cutting out the body mount on the body side and welding in a new one.

if you can drill the bolt all the way out it may be possible to re-tap but would involve a bigger bolt diameter. Extractors not typically very useful for a deep break as its hard to get them to bite.

edit - if extractor is just $16, may be worth the hail mary. Get a disposable torch too if you can safely heat the bolt side mount. Dont melt the isolator.


if you dont have luck i would stop and visit a body shop or trusted mechanic/offroad shop for advice.
Thanks John,

I've since taken it to a body shop.....they will try the EZ out/torch method on Monday.....then progressively get more "aggressive" (expensive too, I'm sure) if that doesn't work.
I was able to get a hole started in the bolt with an 1/8" bit, and eventually stepped it up to a 1/4", unfortunately, there's a good 2" of bolt left in there. I stopped at that point, fearing I might do more harm than good.
I absolutely HATE doing stuff to my own vehicles just for this reason.....shit just NEVER goes right !

WISH ME LUCK !!
 
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DaddyG

DaddyG

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OK, If I understand you correctly there is still about 2" of bolt shaft protruding that you can get hold of. If that's correct, first saturate what's left of the bolt especially at the point where the bolt enters the mass material it is threaded into with a penetrating oil like WD-40. Let it soak for several minutes occasionally tapping it lightly on the end with a steel hammer. Remember... Lightly! Then grasp the bolt shank with a pair of vicegrips, the largest you can fit into there and then with a rocking motion gently twist the bolt both directions untiil you feel it begin to loosen up and then unscrew the bolt. If it is broken off at or near the surface, drill it out carefully using the size drill that fits the appropriate drill / bolt extractor. Follow the same penetrating oil usage as before and then screw the extractor into the drilled out bolt using a socket wrench or ratchet wrench. The bolt should extract. Afterward, run the appropriate tap into the female threads to assure there is no debris left in the pocket. Blow out with air and lubricate again and then replace the bolt. Be sure to wear safety glasses and good luck. Auto Zone has a great extractor set for about $17.00.
Terry,
I've since taken it to a body shop.....the bolt was snapped flush so there was nothing to grab......they are going to try the torch/EZ out method on Monday AM......Hopefully, that will work, if not, they are going to need to get more "agressive" (expensive). The guy seemed pretty positive they could fix it.....I'd REALLY hate for them to cut a "window" in the body mount, but, if that's the only option....I guess I don't have much of a choice
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