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JMJ52876

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What aspect of your ride are you trying to make better?
After my lift, I started getting a lot of feedback through my steering wheel when hitting bumps at highway speeds. My caster is @5.6, and I have double checked all my bolts. Even checked the ball joints for tightness.

I've read that by putting the arms back vertical like they were factory, it would remedy this. I have built and driven big Jeeps in the past, so I am familiar with their little quirks. I can live with the ride I have now, just looking to improve it.
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JTR178

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After my lift, I started getting a lot of feedback through my steering wheel when hitting bumps at highway speeds. My caster is @5.6, and I have double checked all my bolts. Even checked the ball joints for tightness.

I've read that by putting the arms back vertical like they were factory, it would remedy this. I have built and driven big Jeeps in the past, so I am familiar with their little quirks. I can live with the ride I have now, just looking to improve it.
Did you replace your steering dampener?
 

rharr

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After my lift, I started getting a lot of feedback through my steering wheel when hitting bumps at highway speeds. My caster is @5.6, and I have double checked all my bolts. Even checked the ball joints for tightness.

I've read that by putting the arms back vertical like they were factory, it would remedy this. I have built and driven big Jeeps in the past, so I am familiar with their little quirks. I can live with the ride I have now, just looking to improve it.
That sounds like bump steer. Is the drag link and track bar parallel to each other? The taller the lift the more bump steer is introduced into the steering because now when the axle moves there is enough angle change that the drag is moving though a arch different then the track bar which pulls on the steering wheel. If you look at stock steering angles they are pretty parallel to the road. This removes bump steer introduced though arc travel in the drag link. Generally the flatter (parallel to the road) you can get your drag link and track bar the less bump steer you will have.

https://www.quadratec.com/c/reference/what-is-Jeep-bump-steer
 

JMJ52876

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That sounds like bump steer. Is the drag link and track bar parallel to each other? The taller the lift the more bump steer is introduced into the steering because now when the axle moves there is enough angle change that the drag is moving though a arch which pulls on the wheel. If you look at stock steering angles they are pretty parallel to the road. This removes bump steer introduced though arc travel in the drag link. Generally the flatter (parallel to the road) you can get your drag link and track bar the less bump steer you will have.
That's the term I was searching my brain for, bump steer. Yeah, that's what I got. On my JKU I replaced my drag link with a top mount with a track bar bracket. But, with the JT's and only a 2.5 lift, there's not enough room to do that.

Any ideas to soften my steering?
 

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rharr

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That's the term I was searching my brain for, bump steer. Yeah, that's what I got. On my JKU I replaced my drag link with a top mount with a track bar bracket. But, with the JT's and only a 2.5 lift, there's not enough room to do that.

Any ideas to soften my steering?
I attached a article above.
to fix bump steer you need get the track bar and drag link parallel. This is done through a combination of track bar relocation brackets and different drop or raised pitman arms.

I suggest asking clayton if they have anything to help with steering geometry for the drag and track bar.

I am running a 3" rock krawler kit and have minor bumpsteer, not enough to do anything about, but i also came from a 8" lifted XJ that wanted to go all over the road at the slightest bump like a puppy off a leash.
 
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Clayton Off Road

Clayton Off Road

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So I have the 2.5 Ride Rite kit with the Mopar 2 inch front LCA's, and the Clayton adjustable UCA's. I have been looking at getting some drop brackets to better my ride. I'm not a rock crawler, I do mostly street or trails.
Anybody tried these with their Clayton kit?
Since you're running the Ride Right kit with the Mopar front lower arms, I think throwing in some drop brackets for those lower arms would be a great addition to your current setup, especially if you're not worried about ground clearance!
 

JMJ52876

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Since you're running the Ride Right kit with the Mopar front lower arms, I think throwing in some drop brackets for those lower arms would be a great addition to your current setup, especially if you're not worried about ground clearance!
Thank you for the response.
 

Cavitt

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I've been working with @Clayton Off Road for the past few weeks to finalize my order for my 2.5" Overland + kit and they've been awesome. I just received my shipping notice and it should be here by Friday. I currently have a JTR with the 1.5" Teraflex front spacer and .75 Daystar rear spacer. I'm pretty certain that I'll end up on 37's, but will have to run it with the stock Rubicon MT's so it'll look like it's skipped leg day for a bit.

I'm going back and forth on whether to keep any of the spacers in place post lift. I don't mind (actually like) the Clayton rake out of the box, but am concerned about the stance with my complete setup. I have the Mopar steel bumpers with the Smittybilt X20 Gen3 12K winch in front and OVS Freedom rack with 23 Zero Walkabout 62 RTT. I also have the Rockslide Engineering sliders, so there's a good bit of weight on the truck.

I'm considering keeping the 1" front (Teraflex comes with a 1: and .5" spacer in their kit) and 3/4" rear spacers.

I just don't want to spend all the money on the lift only to have it not make a huge difference, but I don't want to screw up my Clayton lift either. Any thoughts.
 

Wet Willys

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I've been working with @Clayton Off Road for the past few weeks to finalize my order for my 2.5" Overland + kit and they've been awesome. I just received my shipping notice and it should be here by Friday. I currently have a JTR with the 1.5" Teraflex front spacer and .75 Daystar rear spacer. I'm pretty certain that I'll end up on 37's, but will have to run it with the stock Rubicon MT's so it'll look like it's skipped leg day for a bit.

I'm going back and forth on whether to keep any of the spacers in place post lift. I don't mind (actually like) the Clayton rake out of the box, but am concerned about the stance with my complete setup. I have the Mopar steel bumpers with the Smittybilt X20 Gen3 12K winch in front and OVS Freedom rack with 23 Zero Walkabout 62 RTT. I also have the Rockslide Engineering sliders, so there's a good bit of weight on the truck.

I'm considering keeping the 1" front (Teraflex comes with a 1: and .5" spacer in their kit) and 3/4" rear spacers.

I just don't want to spend all the money on the lift only to have it not make a huge difference, but I don't want to screw up my Clayton lift either. Any thoughts.
If you're running the rack and RTT all the time I'd keep the 1" front and 3/4" rear spacers. I have the same lift kit and I'm just running a 1/2" front. I've got the Arcus front bumper and a Warn Evo 12S winch, so it offsets for that pretty well.
 

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Cavitt

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If you're running the rack and RTT all the time I'd keep the 1" front and 3/4" rear spacers. I have the same lift kit and I'm just running a 1/2" front. I've got the Arcus front bumper and a Warn Evo 12S winch, so it offsets for that pretty well.
Do you have any side view pics so I can see the rake on your rig?
 

JohnQ

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Installed mine a few days ago. Install was pretty easy, just took some time. I recruited my kiddos to help me install the springs. Entire install took me about 11-12 hours, but I took a lot of old fat man breaks! I added the adjustable front lower control arms and Claytons bump stops. Zero issues for the last 500 miles. I had my alignment checked and the only adjustment I needed was my right front toe.
Jeep Gladiator Clayton Off Road JT Suspension Systems IMG_2930.JPG
 

Chuck

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Installed mine a few days ago. Install was pretty easy, just took some time. I recruited my kiddos to help me install the springs. Entire install took me about 11-12 hours, but I took a lot of old fat man breaks! I added the adjustable front lower control arms and Claytons bump stops. Zero issues for the last 500 miles. I had my alignment checked and the only adjustment I needed was my right front toe.
IMG_2930.JPG
Looks great! What size tires are you running?
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