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QQ: If 35s weigh the same as 37s tire, I imagine damage is the same also

jeepit

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Quick Question you'all
If 35s weigh the same as 37s tire. I imagine damage is the same also
Are they the same when it comes to unsprung weight?
Would the effect on drive-train be the same?
Which one would you go with?
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DailyMoparGuy

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Quick Question you'all
If 35s weigh the same as 37s tire. I imagine damage is the same also
Are they the same when it comes to unsprung weight?
Would the effect on drive-train be the same?
Which one would you go with?
Not exactly the same effect on drive train. Even if a bigger tire weighs the same as the smaller, the rotational force is greater in the bigger tire because more of the weight is located further from the center of the wheel on the larger tire.
 

Jefe1018

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And your tire has to rotate further for a full rotation even if slightly. However when talking hundreds or thousands of miles, it makes a difference.
 

Mac

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Agree with above, also the larger the tire generally the longer the braking distance if you do not upgrade the brakes.
 

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hjdca

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Quick Question you'all
If 35s weigh the same as 37s tire. I imagine damage is the same also
Are they the same when it comes to unsprung weight?
Would the effect on drive-train be the same?
Which one would you go with?
For me, that is an easy answer. I would go with the light 37s and re-gear. Although what everyone said before me is true, lighter 37s are easier on the drivetrain than heavier 37s. Note: I have practically the lightest 37s you can get on my rig. -- with 5:13s. I 4wheel a lot on hard trails, and I have not had any problems - 40K miles total, 20K miles on the 37s, lift, & the 5:13s.
 

JD101

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Dia ( or effective drive radius really) is more of a factor than weight . However weight does play a factor on both performance and parts life . I would still go 37s on a gladiator .
 
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bl1ndman

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Agree with above, also the larger the tire generally the longer the braking distance if you do not upgrade the brakes.
If you can still lock up the breaks, upgrade breaks will not affect breaking distance given the same tire. Upgrading may reduce the felt force required and have less fade over repeated stops, but will not decrease distance. Breaking distance is more to do with the tire.
 

Mac

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392 JL on 37s which I believe has the same brakes as the JT upgraded with APB front brakes
Shows a decent improvement especially when you consider it is not highway speed. He also has a second video which reduces the stopping distance further by adding APB’s rear kit.
 

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JD101

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If you can still lock up the breaks, upgrade breaks will not affect breaking distance given the same tire. Upgrading may reduce the felt force required and have less fade over repeated stops, but will not decrease distance. Breaking distance is more to do with the tire.
Agree with above . And above . Rotational mass is probably most noticable in the brake dept . But If you can shut it down controlled in a panic stop with the typical load out then you're probably fine . It's not like your on a track putting heat in the brakes turn after turn . There are situation where it could become an issue like descending elevation , or heavy towing or hauling . However the driver mod pretty much is the best cure for those situations in my opinion.
Off-road once you start bouncing or binding up a tire locked , all bets are off even stock .
 

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Quick Question you'all
If 35s weigh the same as 37s tire. I imagine damage is the same also
Are they the same when it comes to unsprung weight?
Would the effect on drive-train be the same?
Which one would you go with?
Not really. Imagine a tire as a lever with the fulcrum at the axle. A 37" tire as a lever exerts stress on the axle approximately 1" more than a 35" tire. I assume this can be calculated. Whether this is significant on Dana 44 axles or not is another question. I guess a poll as to the number of users that have experienced axle damage or death wobble from 37 versus 35" tires might be helpful. While this might not be too much of an issue for Gladiators that never go off road, it could be at full articulation for those of us who wheel frequently. I don't know for sure if this is the case, but the physics is correct.
 

bl1ndman

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392 JL on 37s which I believe has the same brakes as the JT upgraded with APB front brakes
Shows a decent improvement especially when you consider it is not highway speed. He also has a second video which reduces the stopping distance further by adding APB’s rear kit.
That doesn't really show anything. The difference between the first to runs was larger than the difference between the first run and the last 2. There are so many variables its hard to say that the upgraded breaks made any difference.
 

ALVagabond

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What you're thinking of is angular momentum. A wheel takes some amount of effort to start it spinning and some amount to stop it. Conceptually, the "bigger" and "heavier" the tire, the harder these processes will be.

Breaking it down mathematically, angular momentum (L) is the moment of inertia (I) times rotational speed (w), so L = I*w. But what's I (the moment of inertia)? You can think of a wheel as a disc spinning about it's axis. For that geometry, I is 1/2 of the mass (m) times the radius (r) squared, or I = 1/2m*r^2 (note that in this case, m is the mass of the entire wheel; rim plus tire).

Basically, an increase is radius is going to much more impactful to momentum than an increase in mass because radius is squared and mass is not. If you have a 35 and a 37 that are basically the same weight, the 37 will be harder to start/stop spinning and that increases the load on the starting/stopping spinny parts of your Jeep.

But 37s will make you look cooler.
 

dcmdon

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also don't forget that tire forces have a longer lever arm on the steering and suspension components with larger tires.

So forces on steering and suspension components are higher with larger tires even if the larger tires weigh less. Its a leverage thing.
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