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That “tuck” though! - 37" BFG KO2 C with +25 mm Method Wheels - No Lift

doc-ketamine

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Great taste in rims, I have them in matte black. +25 offset is perfect.
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Jt-wrx

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Got my summer wheel and tire setup installed last night and man am I in love with this setup!

Method 703 (17x8.5. +25)
BFG KO2 C-rated 37x12.5r17

Zero lift, zero rub, nearly zero poke. Side pics taken with phone placed level on the body panels. Tires measure 35.25” loaded on the Jeep at 33psi.

I do plan on running a Rock Krawler 1.5” spacer all around to regain the wheel gap and travel, but wanted to mount this setup first to provide real feedback. Rides like a charm and at full lock side to side and in reverse without any rubbing.

F9E46EA7-2974-49BF-98CF-3CE6A9B925B5.jpeg


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Nice to see some positive offset love. I will make a prediction, especially if you live where you get proper winters...you'll pull those 1.5" spacers off before a full year on them. ;)

Ask me how I know? I went 4.5" backspace to start but couldn't handle the slop and car washes etc. Now I'm +30mm or 5.9" on some 20x8.5 Black Rhino's on 37's with the narrow axles and a few washers under each steering stop (sport s, mopar lift plus 3/4" pucks up front), my falkens measure over 36" though, wide axles as you say no likely to need any washers under the steering stops. I would highly recommend you DO NOT put them spacers on. You can see on my page that even with similar tuck to you on a spring bear hunt that got muddy it was just barely livable, but it would have been awful with that extra 1.5" of poke so don't do it man.




My daily livability was instantly improved ditching the negative offset 4.5" bs jeep standard aftermarket. Also, staying narrow has other advantages, we had a girl swing onto a double lane roadway this winter cross into my lane without looking and pushed us up on center median with chainlink fence and no shizzo by the hand of god me and the kids braced for impact as we ended up window to window she pulled away there must have only been half an inch to spare on either side of my rig. We still can't believe that didn't turn into a wreck...anyway, I was dang happy to not have the skateboard wheels still on that one. Stay skinny my friends, for multiple reasons, fenders were created for a reason, use them lol.
 

JDChris

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Very Nice! I have the 35" Toyo ATIIIs on stock wheels. If I had to do it all over again I probably would have gone with new wheels and the 37" BFGs. Maybe on my '25 Hurricane Mojave ;)
 

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I love my positive offset. This build is all about the tuck. I think you may be very confused though as I didn’t say anything about wheel spacers.I’ll be adding a 1.5” Rock Krawler spacer. RK makes lift components. ?

My winters are studded Kenda Klevers 35x10.5r17. Pizza cutters are my thing. Reason I also went with the load C KO2s as they’re a touch narrower than their D counterpart.
 

aqcjeepGlad

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I love my positive offset. This build is all about the tuck. I think you may be very confused though as I didn’t say anything about wheel spacers.I’ll be adding a 1.5” Rock Krawler spacer. RK makes lift components. ?

My winters are studded Kenda Klevers 35x10.5r17. Pizza cutters are my thing. Reason I also went with the load C KO2s as they’re a touch narrower than their D counterpart.
I'm a little confused, are you running 37x12.5 or 11.5? Your post says 12.5 but you said you like pizza cutter look and it seems normal is to run 37x12.5 not the 13.5 and pizza cutter would typically mean 37x11.5. Plus I look at you pictures and the tire pop looks almost exactly like my Mojave with stock wheels and 33x11.5 Wildpeaks. I understand the rim 37 to 25 would pop your tires about a half inch more than my stock setup and that is probably undetectable to the naked eye because of camera angle etc. And maybe the extra half inch on the tires is also undetectable, but I would have thought I'd see the 1 inch difference of them both. But once again camera angle etc. does come into play. Hence the reason I ask for clarity.
Thanks for sharing your setup.
 
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I'm a little confused, are you running 37x12.5 or 11.5? Your post says 12.5 but you said you like pizza cutter look and it seems normal is to run 37x12.5 not the 13.5 and pizza cutter would typically mean 37x11.5. Plus I look at you pictures and the tire pop looks almost exactly like my Mojave with stock wheels and 33x11.5 Wildpeaks. I understand the rim 37 to 25 would pop your tires about a half inch more than my stock setup and that is probably undetectable to the naked eye because of camera angle etc. And maybe the extra half inch on the tires is also undetectable, but I would have thought I'd see the 1 inch difference of them both. But once again camera angle etc. does come into play. Hence the reason I ask for clarity.
Thanks for sharing your setup.
I’m running the load C KO2 37x12.5r17
They are approximately 3/4” narrower than the D2 rated versions which does come very close to 11.5” of tread. The C’s are also 5-6lbs lighter than the D2s.

The pizza cutters that I truly refer to are my winter setup which are 35x10.5r17 mounted to my OEM +37 Mojave wheels.

Here’s some side shots to give you clear perspective of the “poke” or lack thereof on these KO2s. Camera is level against the body panel.

Jeep Gladiator That “tuck” though! - 37" BFG KO2 C with +25 mm Method Wheels - No Lift 84A500EF-B4C0-40A7-8D87-8E5E2D6F6075


Jeep Gladiator That “tuck” though! - 37" BFG KO2 C with +25 mm Method Wheels - No Lift EC3F14E1-3F0E-43EA-BF65-7D8644D310AA


Jeep Gladiator That “tuck” though! - 37" BFG KO2 C with +25 mm Method Wheels - No Lift 0B432445-5EA2-41D0-AA4B-283D82A1ED23
 

SSinGA

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This build was not meant to go to 37s as 35s were it's platform. However, with tires becoming hard to get and I'm looking for light and skinny; I really only had 2 options both being a 35x11.5r17. Toyo AT3 which is a ghost to find, and Maxxis Razrs which don't have enough real world feedback. My winter setup is a Kenda Klever 35x10.5r17 which sits great but mounted come in at 33.75" tall. I then learned a lot about these KO2 load C from this forum and how they were designed for the Ford Raptor but are gaining traction (pun intended) in the Jeep world due to their weight. They're also lighter than their load D counter part coming in at 64 lbs versus 71 lbs and although both area 12.5" wide the load C is a touch narrower. Lastly BFG tend to run smaller compared to other makes and with all of this information combined it was the perfect direction that checked off all of my boxes of light weight, skinny, road comfort, and trailability.
FWIW...The RAZR is a great tire! I've had it on my JK for a few years now and plan to get them for the soon to be acquired Gladiator.
 

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Plywood

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Nice to see some positive offset love. I will make a prediction, especially if you live where you get proper winters...you'll pull those 1.5" spacers off before a full year on them. ;)

Ask me how I know? I went 4.5" backspace to start but couldn't handle the slop and car washes etc. Now I'm +30mm or 5.9" on some 20x8.5 Black Rhino's on 37's with the narrow axles and a few washers under each steering stop (sport s, mopar lift plus 3/4" pucks up front), my falkens measure over 36" though, wide axles as you say no likely to need any washers under the steering stops. I would highly recommend you DO NOT put them spacers on. You can see on my page that even with similar tuck to you on a spring bear hunt that got muddy it was just barely livable, but it would have been awful with that extra 1.5" of poke so don't do it man.




My daily livability was instantly improved ditching the negative offset 4.5" bs jeep standard aftermarket. Also, staying narrow has other advantages, we had a girl swing onto a double lane roadway this winter cross into my lane without looking and pushed us up on center median with chainlink fence and no shizzo by the hand of god me and the kids braced for impact as we ended up window to window she pulled away there must have only been half an inch to spare on either side of my rig. We still can't believe that didn't turn into a wreck...anyway, I was dang happy to not have the skateboard wheels still on that one. Stay skinny my friends, for multiple reasons, fenders were created for a reason, use them lol.

And the higher backspacing keeps scrub radius in check as well
 
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aqcjeepGlad

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I’m running the load C KO2 37x12.5r17
They are approximately 3/4” narrower than the D2 rated versions which does come very close to 11.5” of tread. The C’s are also 5-6lbs lighter than the D2s.

The pizza cutters that I truly refer to are my winter setup which are 35x10.5r17 mounted to my OEM +37 Mojave wheels.

Here’s some side shots to give you clear perspective of the “poke” or lack thereof on these KO2s. Camera is level against the body panel.

84A500EF-B4C0-40A7-8D87-8E5E2D6F6075.jpeg


EC3F14E1-3F0E-43EA-BF65-7D8644D310AA.jpeg


0B432445-5EA2-41D0-AA4B-283D82A1ED23.jpeg
Thanks for the extra information. I took pics of my set up using same method as you and I have no poke beyond the top of the fender flare at all, so there is a difference in poke you set up to mine and it is probably about 1 inch but without doing camera like you did I did not see it. Thanks again for the follow up.
 

Jt-wrx

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I love my positive offset. This build is all about the tuck. I think you may be very confused though as I didn’t say anything about wheel spacers.I’ll be adding a 1.5” Rock Krawler spacer. RK makes lift components. ?

My winters are studded Kenda Klevers 35x10.5r17. Pizza cutters are my thing. Reason I also went with the load C KO2s as they’re a touch narrower than their D counterpart.
lol, yup my reading comprehension must have been down a coffee, right on! staying tight on them builds is where it's at, I think if I did it over I'd go bigger lift say 3.5-4" and 35" skinnies at the fender edges for that 'high boy' look, it's important to me to still fit in the 7' garage height so I'd have to be careful....pretty sure the gladiator is the only lifted rig on 37's that will fit lol, I run mopar 2" lift plus 3/4" 'spacers' up front to keep a hair of rake empty, I tow quite a bit so added some timbren helpers in the back that pick up the slack once things sag about an 1", manual transmission and 4.88's, very happy with the set up

and I'm also about that pizza cutter, I've got a crush on the Coker sta super lugs which are about a 36'x9" but 16" wheel, I've done the math, found wheels, it's doable but just nose deep into other things right now, I wish manufacturers would get on board with us snow people that like the skinnies, a 285 70r20 would be ideal on my 20's ;) but I'd like to be even skinnier than that in the 36" range and only the old super lug is there, I see more 11.5" options now so that looks promising for direction, start making some 10.5" in the 36-37" range with snow flake ratings and watch them fly off the shelves! wake up tire manufacturers
 

FitfulGoat

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I love my positive offset. This build is all about the tuck. I think you may be very confused though as I didn’t say anything about wheel spacers.I’ll be adding a 1.5” Rock Krawler spacer. RK makes lift components. ?

My winters are studded Kenda Klevers 35x10.5r17. Pizza cutters are my thing. Reason I also went with the load C KO2s as they’re a touch narrower than their D counterpart.
I have the Kenda’s in 35x10.5 and absolutely love them. Mine measured a little larger than yours at a hair over 34” @ 37psi.

Curious, the Kenda’s have done great as a summer and winter tire and I’ve had them aired down and on many trails in Colorado. That being said did you consider going with the Kenda’s in the 37x12.5x17? I’m eyeing those for my AEV Saltas (also a positive offset ?) pizza cutters over poke any day!!!
 

Jt-wrx

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And the higher backspacing keeps scrub radius in check as well
I can see it for the 'wheelers' crowd, for the 'truck' guys we don't need max articulation and wheel crank so they definitely need those big back space options for the hardcore off-roaders...us mere mortals need to use our fenders lol ;)
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