DIY Aluminum Extrusion T Slot Rack for BAK Revolver x4s

[Beach Buggy]

Nice build, a modified version might be just the thing for carrying surfboards and SUPs. Is your sense that the track would be strong enough for that? Weight is not the concern as much as uplift force.

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[arskemp]

Nice build, a modified version might be just the thing for carrying surfboards and SUPs. Is your sense that the track would be strong enough for that? Weight is not the concern as much as uplift force.

It's not the same thing, but if I ever buy the kayak I've been wanting I don't have any hesitation about purchasing taller legs and having the kayak hang over the cab (I would probably purchase the larger corner brackets though).

I haven't tried pulling "up", but I've grabbed the bars and shaken them with some force left and right, forward and back, and they seem pretty stout (pretty much the whole truck is moving around before the bars move any noticeable amount).

For your example, I think it would work but I'd probably initially only drive it with the tonneau cover closed since the plate that contains the track flexes a bit more when it's rolled open.

 

[Beach Buggy]

It's not the same thing, but if I ever buy the kayak I've been wanting I don't have any hesitation about purchasing taller legs and having the kayak hang over the cab (I would probably purchase the larger corner brackets though).

I haven't tried pulling "up", but I've grabbed the bars and shaken them with some force left and right, forward and back, and they seem pretty stout (pretty much the whole truck is moving around before the bars move any noticeable amount).

For your example, I think it would work but I'd probably initially only drive it with the tonneau cover closed since the plate that contains the track flexes a bit more when it's rolled open.

Great info, thanks. Your system is the most professional looking DIY rack I've seen.

 

[arskemp]

Great info, thanks. Your system is the most professional looking DIY rack I've seen.

Thanks for the kind words!

 

[TheLunk]

This post put a hurt on my wallet

I've got a X4s on the way, and an order into Tnutz...

I'm going with the 1530 stock, and the four-hole gussets, as I'm planning to run 24" uprights for an over-cab kayak rack...

I'll get some pics when everything comes in...

 

[arskemp]

This post put a hurt on my wallet

I've got a X4s on the way, and an order into Tnutz...

I'm going with the 1530 stock, and the four-hole gussets, as I'm planning to run 24" uprights for an over-cab kayak rack...

I'll get some pics when everything comes in...

Looking forward to seeing it!

 

[TheLunk]

Looking forward to seeing it!

Just waiting on an order from Grainger with some longer cap screws. The 1/2 inch I ordered wouldn't -quite- work... and for sure didn't leave me thread room for a lock washer, as I wanted to use... Might have things together later this week...

 

[arskemp]

Just waiting on an order from Grainger with some longer cap screws. The 1/2 inch I ordered wouldn't -quite- work... and for sure didn't leave me thread room for a lock washer, as I wanted to use... Might have things together later this week...

Did you ever end up getting this set up?

 

[dfreezy]

Thanks for sharing these details, especially the part list you went with, very helpful! I'm considering a similar setup to use for my 3 kayaks or cargo box, except maybe going with the 1.5x3" bars and 4-hole corners for added beefiness. You mentioned the black scratching easily, have you come up with a solution for that? I was thinking of maybe using Rust-Oleum undercoating after assembly. Did you ever come with a solution to increase security?

 

[arskemp]

Thanks for sharing these details, especially the part list you went with, very helpful! I'm considering a similar setup to use for my 3 kayaks or cargo box, except maybe going with the 1.5x3" bars and 4-hole corners for added beefiness. You mentioned the black scratching easily, have you come up with a solution for that? I was thinking of maybe using Rust-Oleum undercoating after assembly. Did you ever come with a solution to increase security?

Unfortunately, I don't have a solution to the black scratching. It hasn't been "that" bad so far, but I've been careful with it. An additional coating might help, but I'd be worried about effecting clearancing if the overspray got in the channels of the extrusion.

Regarding security, although its not a perfect solution what I've done so far when locking down my bikes was a basic cable looped around the bikes and locked around one of the corner gussets attached to the tonneau cover rail. By locking it this way it keeps the bolt head from being accessible with a tool so you can't loosen the gusset for removal to circumvent breaking the lock. It's not the strongest security, but should hopefully at least keep honest people honest when I have the bikes unattended for short spurts of time.

 

[mx5red]

Awesome idea and execution @arskemp. This inspired me to make a rack, the idea being cheaper than available racks though I did still spend a bit once my ideas started growing.
I copied an idea for a slide out from xtrusion overland, and after I ordered parts I also saw a video by Ozark Overland where he shows some cool custom things he has from them, like an overhead slide, a flip up access panel, and inside a flip up tote holder.

might do an overhead slide later, we’ll see.
I copied the xtrusion video to a T, added carriage bolt and knob handle as a way to tighten the slide closed.
Anyways here’s mine and a parts list. I ordered as much stainless hardware as I could. Received McMaster stuff in 3 days (over holiday no less) and the tnutz stuff about 20 days later.
I made mine roof level in case I decided to carry something longer than the bed or a huge tent.. my legs are 23” but prob could’ve gone a little lower.
(EDIT: cut them down to 18.5” and the rack looks better now sitting just below cab height.)
You only need about 7” to clear an original Bak x4, not sure if the new X4s is lower.
I went with anchor hardware because a chart on 8020 said it was strongest, but also a pain in the ass. The gusset brackets are simpler. Tnutz does do the counterboring pretty cheaply though.

TNutz.com:
ProductQuantityPriceEX-1530-BLACK - 1.5" x 3" BLACK Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion

• Length (in):
  23
• Fractional length:
  0.000"
• Machining for one end.:
  Ø13/16" Counterbore @ "E" $0.75
• Machining for other end.:
  Ø13/16" Counterbore @ "I" & "J" $1.50

2$51.50EX-1530-BLACK - 1.5" x 3" BLACK Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion

• Length (in):
  23
• Fractional length:
  0.000"
• Machining for one end.:
  Ø13/16" Counterbore @ "H" $0.75
• Machining for other end.:
  Ø13/16" Counterbore @ "I" & "J" $1.50

2$51.50EX-1530-BLACK - 1.5" x 3" BLACK Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion

• Length (in):
  54
• Fractional length:
  0.000"
• Machining for one end.:
  Ø13/16" Counterbore @ "E" & "H" $1.50
• Machining for other end.:
  Ø13/16" Counterbore @ "E" & "H" $1.50

4$230.00EX-1530-BLACK - 1.5" x 3" BLACK Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion

• Length (in):
  57
• Fractional length:
  0.250" (1/4")
• Machining for one end.:
  No machining
• Machining for other end.:
  No machining

2$115.00EX-1530-BLACK - 1.5" x 3" BLACK Smooth T-Slotted Aluminum Extrusion

• Length (in):
  56
• Fractional length:
  0.750" (3/4")
• Machining for one end.:
  No machining
• Machining for other end.:
  No machining

2$113.00(AFC-015-BLACK) BLACK Single Anchor Fastener Cam Only28$47.60(CB-015-K-BLACK) 15 Series 4 BLACK Hole Inside Corner Gusset

• MOUNTING HARDWARE:
  NO HARDWARE REQUIRED

4$26.20(ST-015) 15, 30 or 40 Series Standard T-Nut - 5/16-18

• Thread Size:
  5/16-18

20$9.60(DT-015) Drop-In T-Nut with flexible rubber handle - 5/16-18

• Thread Size:
  5/16-18

20$17.0015 SERIES - BLACK PLASTIC END CAP – BLANK - 1.5'' x 3''

• Size:
  1.5'' x 3''

8$7.60(AC-015-A) 15 Series 1/4-Turn Drop-In Cable Tie15$11.25(JP-015-G-BLACK) 15 Series 4 Hole 90° Joining Plate - Black Anodize

• MOUNTING HARDWARE:
  NO HARDWARE REQUIRED

4$19.00(LM-015-B) 15 Series Single Short Slider w/UHMW pad & hardware

• BRAKE HANDLE:
  No Brake Handle

16$168.80Subtotal:$868.05Shipping:$132.42 via Ground (UPS)Payment method:Apple Pay (Stripe)Total:$1,000.47

McMaster:

I didn’t order enough nuts!
Hardware adds up….

Edit: total box weight about 118 pounds.

 

[Punknhead]

arskemp—-that is fantastic. Clean setup and exactly what I would like to do for my tent. I want to make it just tall enough for my cover to roll up—like you did. My tent is 140lbs. What are your (or anyone’s) thoughts on it handling that weight on the road?

 

[USMC_1Wire6337]

arskemp—-that is fantastic. Clean setup and exactly what I would like to do for my tent. I want to make it just tall enough for my cover to roll up—like you did. My tent is 140lbs. What are your (or anyone’s) thoughts on it handling that weight on the road?

I am sure it would be fine carrying the tent with the 2 screw corner brackets. However, I would probably go with the bigger 4 screw corner brackets for the added people weight when sleeping.

 

[mx5red]

arskemp—-that is fantastic. Clean setup and exactly what I would like to do for my tent. I want to make it just tall enough for my cover to roll up—like you did. My tent is 140lbs. What are your (or anyone’s) thoughts on it handling that weight on the road?

I have no doubt my rack would hold it.
I would worry two separate F/R racks wouldn’t be stable enough so I think you need some connection between the front and back rails, like a rail on each side connecting the front and back.
BTW I chose anchors because they were pretty hidden and supposedly strongest connection according to chart on 8020.net

I was surprised #7 corner gussets were not stronger, though they do not list double gussets and I bet those would be strongest?
Assembling the anchors were kind of a pain because they were hard to line up the nuts and bolts while holding the rails in place. I think corner gussets are easier to work with and probably strong enough.

 

[arskemp]

arskemp—-that is fantastic. Clean setup and exactly what I would like to do for my tent. I want to make it just tall enough for my cover to roll up—like you did. My tent is 140lbs. What are your (or anyone’s) thoughts on it handling that weight on the road?

I'm by know means an expert, but I would agree with others and say a good starting point would be to use the 4 bolt corner gussets. I've never used an RTT so I'm not sure on what the mounting options are (can the floor of the tent add fore/aft stability when bolted down?).

If you EVER decide to use it at full height though, it might be worth getting 1530 instead of 1515 like mx5red.

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