In side the doors themselves, yes, you just have to change the four actuators and replace the harnesses. I'd strongly suggest doing the proximity locks at the same time. If you do, you don't even need a fob with buttons.
If you do want the buttons, you probably need to get the dealer to...
Very likely water being pulled in through the filters. I've had multiple jeeps with compressors mounted under the hood or in the wheel well... always added extensions to the filters and never had a problem.
Mule would seem to be the obvious one for you and your buddy. Lots of overloading stuff there and they do some impressive pickup conversions (Gladiators, Taco's etc..). Its probably 20 minutes "out of your way" ...
Northridge is a great shop but their showroom isn't very big...
Zero regrets here ... mud, rain, snow, dust .... been through it all in the last year and couldn't be happier. It's the next best thing to just LineX'ing the interior (and has more sound insulation!) :)
I'm not a fan of the separate pieces that Rubicon Express uses. At least Rancho is fully welded.
I've mentioned on another thread that I've run both the Rancho and AEV brackets on various Jeeps over the years. The Rancho's are slightly easier to install. They have various mounting points...
I've run both the Rancho and AEV ones on various jeeps, both have gotten smashed around and held up well. Can't go wrong with either. I personally would avoid Rough Country, I don't like that they are not fully welded but rather two separate plates.
Oh hey ! That was me. And no, they really didn't. Got the Destoryers on there now but will likely have to shim them out a bit and I do need to touch up some spots where the aluminum ones did hit the rocket panels.
You can correct caster either way but the brackets will absolutely give you a better ride. By dropping the control arm you maintain the original geometry of the suspension (ie... LCAs are parallel to the road, not angled down)
Brackets really only get a bad rap for rock crawling because they...
Rock Krawler Pro-X lift .... removes the rear sway bar entirely :)
But otherwise, Clayton and Metalcloak seem to have the bend in the middle for extra tire clearance.
Nice looking rig. If you have the wiring, the power locks aren't too terribly hard to install. Takes a couple hours to take apart the doors, switch out the actuators and install the new harnesses. Really does make a big difference.
If you don't have all the wiring, the other...
What year is your JT?
The easiest way to to look at the body side of the door harness. If its full or mostly full then you are good ... If it only has a couple wires, then likely you don't.
I've never been able to find a complete pin out for the connectors but piercing together a couple...
Not sure where you get $4000... it's $20K or $22K for the level II uplift. On top of the $75K for the 392.... .... $4K was (I think) the pricing for the the "XR" package that gets the 2" mopar lift and 35s ...
But definitely cool to see AEV doing this level of integration again.
The charts are interesting but don't match my experiences....
I am running 37x12.5 Nitto Trail Grappers and Hutchinson beadlocks... admittedly a heavy combo. With 4.56s I never saw 8th gear unless I was going downhill. Highway climbs were awful. Stuck in 3rd or 4th with the engine...
The AEV 3" high capacity springs are rated for a constant +400-700lbs of load. They are a full set so more expensive ($598) than Dobinson's above but certainly look like a fit for your load.
I had set on for a while but with only a light rack and RTT, I'm probably only 250lbs without...
Ok... let's start with the basics ? What year of Gladiator do you have ? Have you confirmed you have all the body wiring ? Some Gladiators do, some don't..... Check where the door harness is connected to the body.
You said you have had all the door harnesses replaced. If so...