1400 Miles Post - Cam Shaft/Rocker Replacement… CEL & TICK

[Free2roam]

See I was thinking lack of lubrication. Pressure issues, or perhaps oil galleys not being sized correctly. Is it always the same side? Or random?

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[ShadowsPapa]

I have a theory for which I am afraid to voice . .. ahh screw it .. lol...
Okay oil with bad additive packages and incorrect break in methods.

Break-in? That's already done by the time you get it home.

Note that the vast majority of these were 2020s, some 2021s and then it trails off from there getting fewer and fewer with each successive model year. 2020 was the worst.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

See I was thinking lack of lubrication. Pressure issues, or perhaps oil galleys not being sized correctly. Is it always the same side? Or random?

Pressure is not an issue. If there were oil gallery issues, you'd likely have lash adjuster issues and followers not able to switch from low to high lift and back.
I'm thinking more along the lines of multiple issues - cam shaft issues (manufacturing) perhaps along with the lash adjusters not "squirting" oil where it belongs.
it's bank 1 - right side - intake, that has the issues the majority of the time.

30 psi is more than adequate to shoot oil clean across the engine bay. These kick into high volume mode in the pump at 3,000 RPM about the time they go into full lift mode on the intakes. That gets you generally over 70 psi - I don't even run my performance engines that high.

 

[Stan H]

Pressure is not an issue. If there were oil gallery issues, you'd likely have lash adjuster issues and followers not able to switch from low to high lift and back.
I'm thinking more along the lines of multiple issues - cam shaft issues (manufacturing) perhaps along with the lash adjusters not "squirting" oil where it belongs.
it's bank 1 - right side - intake, that has the issues the majority of the time.

30 psi is more than adequate to shoot oil clean across the engine bay. These kick into high volume mode in the pump at 3,000 RPM about the time they go into full lift mode on the intakes. That gets you generally over 70 psi - I don't even run my performance engines that high.

Yeah mine goes from 29/30 psi @idle to 31/32 @ 29-3000 then to 77/78psi @3000 +

 

[Stan H]

Break-in? That's already done by the time you get it home.

Note that the vast majority of these were 2020s, some 2021s and then it trails off from there getting fewer and fewer with each successive model year. 2020 was the worst.

Well, on break in I changed mine my oil very low mileage went straight to Full Synthetic .. and Been running Synthetic ever since .

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Well, on break in I changed mine my oil very low mileage went straight to Full Synthetic .. and Been running Synthetic ever since .

Full synthetic, synthetic blend, it matters pretty much nothing.
It's the additives that do matter.
There are blends that blow away pure synthetics in certain wear protection and heat resistance areas.

Break-in is a very abused term on the internet. Likely dating back to the 1940s and 50s, when things got passed around and down.
But even in the late 1950s Ford was stating in their owners manuals - "no break-in is needed".

My engine building documents all state that when the builder returns the vehicle to the customer, it's broken in.

Not a bad thing to do the first oil change earlier than the others, but as far as oil, they put oil in that is the same as what they expect it to be driven with down the road. There's no such thing as "break-in oil" - other than saying that because it's the first oil it ran with. But for differences - it's the same type of oil they expect the consumer to use in it. Nothing special.

When I build engines - I put in what it's going to run with. I follow the ring break-in procedures, and from there, simply drive it. My built 4.0 went out the door after getting it running and never looked back. I simply drove it until the first oil change.
Same with everything I've ever built over the decades.

 

[RunTheRace]

OK. Here are the notes I asked for from my Dealer Service Writer. Note that the #3 misfire which they claimed my 5/60 warranty would not cover, is once again listed AFTER they changed out the #3 coil a week earlier. So, why did they not find the #3 TSB on initial service/analysis? By using my 8/85 warranty, they also charged me a $200 deductible on the #3 coil replacement. Service Writer notes:

"CEL LIGHT STORED CODE P0303 WHEN ILDING NORMAL NO MISFIRE
BUT WHEN REV UP TO 4,000 MISFIRE OCCURS ON CYLINDER #3 FOUND
RELATED TSB THAT TALKS ABOUT POSS ROCKER AND LIFTER WEARING
DOWN CAUSING HIGH LIFT MODE TO NOT OPERATE WILL NEED TO
REMOVE RIGHT V/COVER AND INSPECT CAMSHAFTS AND ROCKERS TO
SEE IF ANY WEAR IS FOUND AND GIVE ESTIMATE FROM THERE
WAITING ON APPROVAL

HOOKED UP SCAN TOOL TO FIND CODE P0303 RUNS FINE AT IDLE AND
WHEN REV ENGINE STARTS MISFIRING ON #3 FOUND TSB RELATED TO
MISFIRE AND ORDERED PARTS RELATED TO ISSUE PARTS ON B/O AND
WILL INSTALL AS SOON AS PART ARRIVE AT DEALER"

 

[Stan H]

Full synthetic, synthetic blend, it matters pretty much nothing.
It's the additives that do matter.
There are blends that blow away pure synthetics in certain wear protection and heat resistance areas.

Break-in is a very abused term on the internet. Likely dating back to the 1940s and 50s, when things got passed around and down.
But even in the late 1950s Ford was stating in their owners manuals - "no break-in is needed".

My engine building documents all state that when the builder returns the vehicle to the customer, it's broken in.

Not a bad thing to do the first oil change earlier than the others, but as far as oil, they put oil in that is the same as what they expect it to be driven with down the road. There's no such thing as "break-in oil" - other than saying that because it's the first oil it ran with. But for differences - it's the same type of oil they expect the consumer to use in it. Nothing special.

When I build engines - I put in what it's going to run with. I follow the ring break-in procedures, and from there, simply drive it. My built 4.0 went out the door after getting it running and never looked back. I simply drove it until the first oil change.
Same with everything I've ever built over the decades.

I dont like saying one brand is better than another but I have used 1 specific type for the last 122,709 miles and holding up pretty good.
I bet you can guess which brand
Go ahead I have faith .

 

[WK2JT]

I dont like saying one brand is better than another but I have used 1 specific type for the last 122,709 miles and holding up pretty good.
I bet you can guess which brand
Go ahead I have faith .

Supertech?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I dont like saying one brand is better than another but I have used 1 specific type for the last 122,709 miles and holding up pretty good.
I bet you can guess which brand
Go ahead I have faith .

"which is better" actually varies with product and specific oils as well.

My #1 choice for my Eagle's 4.0 is between #1 and #2 for my Jeep 3.6

 

[Hootbro]

I dont like saying one brand is better than another but I have used 1 specific type for the last 122,709 miles and holding up pretty good.
I bet you can guess which brand
Go ahead I have faith .

My guess is Dollar General house brand oil.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

EVOO?

 

[Stan H]

My guess is Dollar General house brand oil.

No actually A.S.S. Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20

 

[Stan H]

Supertech?

Y'all are a total riot

 

[Hootbro]

No actually A.S.S. Amsoil Signature Series 0W-20

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