2020 Gladiator, Oil pressure sensor or oil pump?

[Mike156]

I have a 2020 Gladiator with about 48,000 miles on it.
Just started having oil pressure reading bouncing all over the place.
I only happens when I go into passing gear or close to full throttle.
When it happens the car goes into limp mode and says oil pressure/with check engine light.
Then about 4 - 5 restarts later or about 2 days of driving the light goes off and all is normal.
SO ANNOYING
My mechanic told me it was a P06DD code and said it was either the oil pump or sensor.

I have attached a video of this issue.
The video was when I was in limp mode and tried to go full throttle (you can hear me hit the pedal to the floor at the start of the video).
You can see the oil pressure went crazy.

Please any help or ideas

would be great.
Thank you.

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[Old Dogger]

I strongly suggest that you take your wrangler into your Dealer ASAP, before you wipe out your engine. Engine oil pressure is nothing to take lightly.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have a 2020 Gladiator with about 48,000 miles on it.
Just started having oil pressure reading bouncing all over the place.
I only happens when I go into passing gear or close to full throttle.
When it happens the car goes into limp mode and says oil pressure/with check engine light.
Then about 4 - 5 restarts later or about 2 days of driving the light goes off and all is normal.
SO ANNOYING
My mechanic told me it was a P06DD code and said it was either the oil pump or sensor.

I have attached a video of this issue.
The video was when I was in limp mode and tried to go full throttle (you can hear me hit the pedal to the floor at the start of the video).
You can see the oil pressure went crazy.

Please any help or ideas
would be great.
Thank you.

All I saw was the pressure drop to nothing - not "go crazy". If I saw the pressure drop to zero I'd be very alarmed and stop driving it.

You already got help - it's either the oil pump or sensor.

Why would you try to go WOT with oil pressure issues? That's asking for destruction.
Do you not believe the mechanic or the code?

These are multi-mode oil pumps and are controlled by a solenoid to increase or decrease oil volume from the pump. There is also a control for the pressure relief valve.

Get it to a shop before you fry the engine in case it's LACK OF OIL.

 

[Gvsukids]

Please any help or ideas

What do you want us to say?

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Please any help or ideas

The problem could be a carbon plugged filter. Have you done your own oil changes and cut open the filter to inspect it? Does it look like the pics below? Low oil pressure code isn’t always just a failed sensor. What is for one can be something else for another.

I never had any oil pressure issues but I think I was headed there had I not used my bore scope just inside the oil drain hole to inspect the pick up screen. Noticing it looked plugged, I took off the pan to see this… (oil changes every 50% oil life on the meter, approximately 3000 miles) Problem I believe was not sticking with one oil. I had used a few different full synthetic brands in my 130 k kms (80k miles).

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The problem could be a carbon plugged filter. Have you done your own oil changes and cut open the filter to inspect it? Does it look like the pics below? Low oil pressure code isn’t always just a failed sensor. What is for one can be something else for another.

I never had any oil pressure issues but I think I was headed there had I not used my bore scope just inside the oil drain hole to inspect the pick up screen. Noticing it looked plugged, I took off the pan to see this… (oil changes every 50% oil life on the meter, approximately 3000 miles) Problem I believe was not sticking with one oil. I had used a few different full synthetic brands in my 130 k kms (80k miles).

Naw, you will push into bypass mode then.
Oil pressure will remain fine, it will just bypass the filter. There's a reason these, as any other filter has, a bypass valve. Once the pressure differential is great enough the filter is bypassed.

You have a weird, one-off case, not at all common or even likely in a modern engine.
I bet if we took apart 1,000 other engines we'd not see pieces like you have seen. Your engine has experienced something others just won't see.
That's just muddying the waters. It is only going to confuse things. He needs to take it to a good shop and get the thing fixed.

He's got a normal engine, and I'd bet no build-up at all.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The problem could be a carbon plugged filter. Have you done your own oil changes and cut open the filter to inspect it? Does it look like the pics below? Low oil pressure code isn’t always just a failed sensor. What is for one can be something else for another.

I never had any oil pressure issues but I think I was headed there had I not used my bore scope just inside the oil drain hole to inspect the pick up screen. Noticing it looked plugged, I took off the pan to see this… (oil changes every 50% oil life on the meter, approximately 3000 miles) Problem I believe was not sticking with one oil. I had used a few different full synthetic brands in my 130 k kms (80k miles).

You weren't even close to filter bypass mode. I bet there wasn't any real pressure differential between the two sides of the filter. Nice to clean it out, but very unrelated to his issues.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Naw, you will push into bypass mode then.
Oil pressure will remain fine, it will just bypass the filter. There's a reason these, as any other filter has, a bypass valve. Once the pressure differential is great enough the filter is bypassed.

You have a weird, one-off case, not at all common or even likely in a modern engine.
I bet if we took apart 1,000 other engines we'd not see pieces like you have seen. Your engine has experienced something others just won't see.
That's just muddying the waters. It is only going to confuse things. He needs to take it to a good shop and get the thing fixed.

He's got a normal engine, and I'd bet no build-up at all.

Well then, give me your best guess what happened to mine. If I’m so set apart from a 1000 other engines where did things go sideways?
1. Engine was given to me filled with 12L and ran hot (248F but dash didn’t light up) for the first 1567 kms (this doesn’t happen to anyone else);
2. Multiple different full synthetics (5) used over 80k mile span. (Probably more people would do this if price shopping)
3. Oil changes every 3000 miles. (Who does that, but is it damaging?)

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Well then, give me your best guess what happened to mine. If I’m so set apart from a 1000 other engines where did things go sideways?
1. Engine was given to me filled with 12L and ran hot (248F but dash didn’t light up) for the first 1567 kms (this doesn’t happen to anyone else);
2. Multiple different full synthetics (5) used over 80k mile span. (Probably more people would do this if price shopping)
3. Oil changes every 3000 miles. (Who does that, but is it damaging?)

Most likely #1 You had oil getting to hot spots and staying there enough to take out the light parts of the oil, perhaps even burning it as it's held to the piston underside and rings longer than usual.
#2 is possible, but most people choose a good oil and become "brand loyal" (sometimes, in some cases, to a fault) and aren't likely to switch back and forth. The days of throwing in whatever is on hand are dying - save for a few here. Most will read the book, or go to a dealership. Forum exaggerate the numbers who do their own because forums attract DIYers, not typical buyers/owners/drivers.
You are far from a typical owner/operator.
Most will buy a case and that's that. It's the oil they use.

#3 - overkill but certainly no risk of damaging an engine unless you increase the risk of damage because now you are messing with the filter cap, o-ring and so on 3 times as often as necessary. Fresh oil never ruined an engine (unless it was way too much, or the wrong oil)

 

[Maximus Gladius]

You are far from a typical owner/operator.

Is this good thing? Some say if I didn’t go look for trouble, I’d never find it. Maybe I think I live on Mars and the only one that cares and can fix the issues I find is only me.

One note to make concerning #2, multiple brands used, the carbon showed up after the first oil change of the 3rd brand. So the carbon build up had to of been from that first hard run using Quaker state, then switched for Mobil 1 EP, then (right here when it showed up) Pennzoil UP.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Is this good thing? Some say if I didn’t go look for trouble, I’d never find it. Maybe I think I live on Mars and the only one that cares and can fix the issues I find is only me

One note to make concerning #2, multiple brands used, the carbon showed up after the first oil change of the 3rd brand. So the carbon build up had to of been from that first hard run using Quaker state, then switched for Mobil 1 EP, then (right here when it showed up) Pennzoil UP

I don't believe that you'd want to test that theory any time soon...........Your JT has been through enough hell.

I tend to rely on letting someone else do the testing that leads them to conclude - don't mix, don't change, without a double-change.
When two engineers say the same thing, I start to wonder - maybe there's a reason, then when both point to the results on paper, it's enough to make me rethink what we did decades ago - "yeah, it's 10w40, that means it's ok to put in there". Not these days. It's why I have oil still on the shelves that I'm not sure what I'll do with other than maybe starting my burn pile on fire to get rid of brush and cut down trees.
I won't even pour that stuff into my 73 these days............. I've chosen oils for each of my cars and will stick with it.

 

[Mike156]

I did some more research and I will probably just change the whole oil filter housing with another OEM one because I know they are prone to leaking. When I change this I will also replace the oil sensor. Not sure if I'm going to do the oil pump yet. Just easier step first.

P.S. I change oil when it gets to about 25-30% life and use Mobil 1. I have to admit I have not been using OEM filters and cannot remember what I have been using in the past. Last oil change was about a month ago and only put on about 9,000 a year.

 

[Mike156]

Thank you everyone for their replies.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Not sure if I'm going to do the oil pump yet.

Dont drop the pan without first going in to see the screen with a bore scope. Make an informed decision then.

 

[ShrimpHappens]

I'm not sure about our engines, but on most engines the oil pressure sending unit isn't hard to replace. I'd start there; it's the quickest, easiest, and cheapest thing to do. When they go bad they'll be full of oil.

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