3.73 gearing with 37s

[Schleg]

Okay everyone, I've scanned a lot trying to gather information on this topic from various places on the forum. I want to just hear from people with experience running 37s with 3.73 gearing on their JT, including their perception of their performance, how long they've been running that setup, and if they made any other mods. Thanks!

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[KurtP]

Having been on 37’s and 4.10’s; i cant imagine how bad it would be with 3.73’s.

 

[Schleg]

Thanks for the feedback. Was it sluggish performance that bothered you (on or offroad)? Or did you have damage to any components?

 

[DocMike]

I have 33s and 3.73 and it's a bit sluggish. Especially wheeling at altitude. Can I smoke em a bit off a light? Yeah. You are in Idaho and I will assume you are going to wheel this thing.

I think the general consensus is that if you run 37s or bigger you will be upgrading lots of things.
It's not a matter of IF things wear out but WHEN. You are significantly increasing the rotational mass when you go to 37s. I am a fan of doing it right. Last thing you need is something busted on the trail. Overbuild and then drive a bit under what your truck can do. They did take a stock JT Rubicon on the Rubicon Trail. It did it with lots of rock stacking and scrapes and dents.

 

[Schleg]

I have 33s and 3.73 and it's a bit sluggish. Especially wheeling at altitude. Can I smoke em a bit off a light? Yeah. You are in Idaho and I will assume you are going to wheel this thing.

I think the general consensus is that if you run 37s or bigger you will be upgrading lots of things.
It's not a matter of IF things wear out but WHEN. You are significantly increasing the rotational mass when you go to 37s. I am a fan of doing it right. Last thing you need is something busted on the trail. Overbuild and then drive a bit under what your truck can do. They did take a stock JT Rubicon on the Rubicon Trail. It did it with lots of rock stacking and scrapes and dents.

Thanks for the feedback. Right now it's a daily driver, but I plan eventually to wheel it (weekend warrior) a bit. My dilemma (like so many before me) is that, while I plan on re-gearing eventually, right now I only have the budget for suspension, wheels, and tires. I'm asking myself whether it will be worse to buy tires twice (in addition to regearing) or deal with 37s on 3.73 for a year or so before I regear.

 

[KurtP]

Thanks for the feedback. Was it sluggish performance that bothered you (on or offroad)? Or did you have damage to any components?

Its ok around town with the number of ratios we have. The problem is up on the highway. The upper ratios and double over drive mean youll be dipping down several gears on hills and it will require lots of engine load.

I did replace my stock ball joints with Dana HD ball joints. Not sure what axles you have. On the dana 44’s, i think short of aggressive rock bashing with lots of wheel slip and grab, the ball joints, tie rod, and drag link are all that needs replaced. If there is lots of rock bashing, then ChroMo axles shafts and front drive shaft will need replaced.

 

[DocMike]

I feel you on this. I have a Sport S. Weekend warrior, daily driver, kid hauler, eventual overland.
I went with 33s on 3.73. Good robust rock sliders and Rubicon take off suspension. JKS disconnects for the front sway bar.
GMRS Radio. Lower shock mount and control arm skids. Onboard air is next and a better bumper and winch. I feel even right now my set up is quite capable for what I like to do. I had no problem showing up a few lifted Tacomas on 33s and 35s.

Eventually a 2-2.5 in lift.... Gear swap and then 35s or 37s. I like the look of the 37s. But damn. Lots of things to upgrade.

Pics for reference.

Thanks for the feedback. Right now it's a daily driver, but I plan eventually to wheel it (weekend warrior) a bit. My dilemma (like so many before me) is that, while I plan on re-gearing eventually, right now I only have the budget for suspension, wheels, and tires. I'm asking myself whether it will be worse to buy tires twice (in addition to regearing) or deal with 37s on 3.73 for a year or so before I regear.

 

[KurtP]

Thanks for the feedback. Right now it's a daily driver, but I plan eventually to wheel it (weekend warrior) a bit. My dilemma (like so many before me) is that, while I plan on re-gearing eventually, right now I only have the budget for suspension, wheels, and tires. I'm asking myself whether it will be worse to buy tires twice (in addition to regearing) or deal with 37s on 3.73 for a year or so before I regear.

Personally; i would tailor your build budget. You can find some room to wiggle. Id go gears first as the priority -for the tire size you want to run- and your tires, then do your lift in pieces. Get your height requirement as cheaply as possible, and correct your caster. Then gucci up the suspension piece meal from deals in the classifieds section over time. I mean, spacers, shock extensions, and geo brackets can all be done for less than a grand. Lower level icon kits, the mopar kits, and the AEV dual sport are alp very reasonably priced kits that can all be upgraded further over time.

Frame in your mind that tires and gears are the same budget line item; not separate ones.

Also consider going 35’s. Its easier and cheaper to reliably get to; and the difference isnt THAT much between 35 and 37.

 

[Schleg]

I feel you on this. I have a Sport S. Weekend warrior, daily driver, kid hauler, eventual overland.
I went with 33s on 3.73. Good robust rock sliders and Rubicon take off suspension. JKS disconnects for the front sway bar.
GMRS Radio. Lower shock mount and control arm skids. Onboard air is next and a better bumper and winch. I feel even right now my set up is quite capable for what I like to do. I had no problem showing up a few lifted Tacomas on 33s and 35s.

Eventually a 2-2.5 in lift.... Gear swap and then 35s or 37s. I like the look of the 37s. But damn. Lots of things to upgrade.

Pics for reference.

Wow, those are only 33s?! Your build looks fantastic.

 

[Schleg]

Personally; i would tailor your build budget. You can find some room to wiggle. Id go gears first as the priority -for the tire size you want to run- and your tires, then do your lift in pieces. Get your height requirement as cheaply as possible, and correct your caster. Then gucci up the suspension piece meal from deals in the classifieds section over time. I mean, spacers, shock extensions, and geo brackets can all be done for less than a grand. Lower level icon kits, the mopar kits, and the AEV dual sport are alp very reasonably priced kits that can all be upgraded further over time.

Frame in your mind that tires and gears are the same budget line item; not separate ones.

Also consider going 35’s. Its easier and cheaper to reliably get to; and the difference isnt THAT much between 35 and 37.

That's a good call too. Thanks.

 

[KurtP]

That's a good call too. Thanks.

For sure. I mean look at that pic. You have to zoom in to see the difference between the two. Heck, i might go down to 35’s at some point.

 

[CivilJeep]

For sure. I mean look at that pic. You have to zoom in to see the difference between the two. Heck, i might go down to 35’s at some point.

I agree. When you look at the some of the specs, the delta between one manufacturer's 35" and another's 37" gets pretty small. I can only see it in this picture looking at the front flare gap.

 

[Schleg]

For sure. I mean look at that pic. You have to zoom in to see the difference between the two. Heck, i might go down to 35’s at some point.

That's true. I know the precise measurements vary some depending on brand, but those look so close.

 

[KurtP]

That's true. I know the precise measurements vary some depending on brand, but those look so close.

They really are close. I think those were Nitto’s which are off by about as much as my Falken’s. If you were to do a true full size 35 like a general grabber, you wouldnt be able to tell the difference at all.

I think there are a lot of people on forums and social media running 37 over 35 because they think 37’s are still a big deal and gives them cred. They arent “big” anymore , and havent been since the YJ or TJ. The only reason i went 37 os because im literally doing the whole build almost at once. Had i seen in person the difference between a true 35 and a “37” i more than likely got a true 35, and very may well next time i buy tires down the road. The lower weight, lower cost, etc.

I guess the point of what Im saying is do the build on your jeep that works for your purposes and your budget. Youd like your jeep a lot better on 35’s with good suspension than 37’s and cheap suspension. That said, if 37’s are where you want/need to be, dont be afraid to go piece meal. Its an expensive process.

 

[Liftr]

I think I have The cheapest way to get improved look and performance:
Buy a takeoff Rubicon suspension off the forum for $400.
Buy a set of 1” Daystar spacers For $50.
Buy the Kenda Klever R/T 35x10.50r17 for $800.
Alternatively, if you want some tire stick out, get the 12.50” version for another $25 each. But that may cost you a set of wheel spacers to prevent rubbing.
You’re all in less than $1,500 and this will get you out on the trails while you save money for serious improvements, should you decide you need them.

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