xcd
Member
- First Name
- Dan
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2024
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 21
- Reaction score
- 19
- Location
- Northern Wi
- Vehicle(s)
- 23 gladiator Rubicon, 24 Wrangler Rubicon
- Occupation
- Retired machine/fab shop
- Thread starter
- #1
Maybe most people already know this. But I didn’t. I have done a few gear swaps mostly on older Dana 30,s,44’s,& 60’s. I never had to deal with shimmed cups on the carrier or a crush sleeve. Fast forward 25 years since my last and now I have. Shimmed cups instead of shimming bearings is ok other than when your trying to get backlash just right along with preload and you have shim stacks it’s more of a pain than slip fit set up bearings and bearing shims. The factory grinds shims to spec so you have a single behind each cup. I didn’t have an over size to surface grind so I had to play with stacking on each side. Not the end of the earth but I was not super stoked on it. Hard to keep all in place when putting carrier in.
My front crush sleeve was fairly easy. The rear was a bear. Like makes torquing any other bolt on your suspension seem finger tight in comparison. I hate them and I know there is a work around with shims but I was committed and that was that.
Last one was the big one. Road test great. I knew it would be I got patterns really good. But when I did a test In 4 low within a few hundred yards I got a service 4WD. When going back into 2H it left the service light on and the 4low stayed illuminated along with the 2H.
pulled in my drive an knew there was an issue. Jacked the front tires off the ground and they were still engaged. They did then disengage. I also was getting a sway bar disconnected error. Crazy stuff. I think about what I did what I didn’t do and what I should do.
Researched and found someone said be sure to set your tazer to the proper tire size and gear ratio or you can get a service 4WD. Humm- guess I should try it even though that shouldn’t be the issue. It was. Your front hub sensors have to match trans output speed and RPM. When those don’t jive the computers decide something is wrong and freak out. I called my son in law and before I could finish asking the the question he was already saying I need to reset the ratios in the tazer.
so lesson learned. As he said, time to get on point with all this new fangled technology!
My front crush sleeve was fairly easy. The rear was a bear. Like makes torquing any other bolt on your suspension seem finger tight in comparison. I hate them and I know there is a work around with shims but I was committed and that was that.
Last one was the big one. Road test great. I knew it would be I got patterns really good. But when I did a test In 4 low within a few hundred yards I got a service 4WD. When going back into 2H it left the service light on and the 4low stayed illuminated along with the 2H.
pulled in my drive an knew there was an issue. Jacked the front tires off the ground and they were still engaged. They did then disengage. I also was getting a sway bar disconnected error. Crazy stuff. I think about what I did what I didn’t do and what I should do.
Researched and found someone said be sure to set your tazer to the proper tire size and gear ratio or you can get a service 4WD. Humm- guess I should try it even though that shouldn’t be the issue. It was. Your front hub sensors have to match trans output speed and RPM. When those don’t jive the computers decide something is wrong and freak out. I called my son in law and before I could finish asking the the question he was already saying I need to reset the ratios in the tazer.
so lesson learned. As he said, time to get on point with all this new fangled technology!
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