talljeeper
Well-Known Member
I am venturing a guess that RIPP has experienced multiple rocker/cam failures with customers hence the bulletin. 0/20 is for nothing more than to appease the EPA and barrel volumes.
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Might as well have been written on a truck stop bathroom wall above a glory hole if the source is not going to be referenced or named.From a reliable source.
Unfortunately I left the company as the Gen II was kicking off. I do know the engineering team was VERY nervous on the 0w-20 stuff and it was 100% for fuel economy.
Might as well have been written on a truck stop bathroom wall above a glory hole if the source is not going to be referenced or named.
I appreciate your perspective, and I acknowledge the merit of your point. If I grasp your statement correctly, you're implying that you will not consider an alternative to 0w-20 until an official engineer from the manufacturing facility endorses it. I comprehend your position. Furthermore, if I am interpreting correctly, this recommendation is contingent upon a naturally aspirated factory engine without forced induction, taking into account the associated elevated temperatures. Am I on the right track?In the same thread on BITOG, the guy goes on to say that he left prior to the development of the PUG and that thicker oil was a positive for the timing components (chain) but a negative for the valvetrain (cams/rockers) and that was IIRC prior to the API SP oils coming out which focuses heavily on timing chain wear and LSPI. If a PUG engineer and tribologist come out and say, yeah 5w40 will make the engine last longer, I'll be the first to dump my 0w20 but not until then or I'm trying to solve some other issue with a thicker oil.
I wrote that a bit happhazardly. I would not diverge from 0w20 unless explicitly recommended to do so by the manufacturer (such as in the case of my Mazdaspeed3: 5w30 to 5w40) or if I was trying to resolve an issue (burning oil in my M3: 5w30 to 15w50).In regards to
I appreciate your perspective, and I acknowledge the merit of your point. If I grasp your statement correctly, you're implying that you will not consider an alternative to 0w-20 until an official engineer from the manufacturing facility endorses it. I comprehend your position. Furthermore, if I am interpreting correctly, this recommendation is contingent upon a naturally aspirated factory engine without forced induction, taking into account the associated elevated temperatures. Am I on the right track?
I wrote that a bit happhazardly. I would not diverge from 0w20 unless explicitly recommended to do so by the manufacturer (such as in the case of my Mazdaspeed3: 5w30 to 5w40) or if I was trying to resolve an issue (burning oil in my M3: 5w30 to 15w50).
I plan on keeping my JT for the next 9 years or more so when it gets older, I may revisit the idea of using a different oil but for now, 0w20 is shown to work out well in these engines per the UOAs I've seen.
I did not know they made that that is interesting. I’m going to look into it. Thank you for bringing that up.I recently switched to Amsoil Signature series 5-20. I am also running Amsoil Upper Cylinder lubricant every other tank. Amazingly quieter. I had no abnormal "tick" like may complain of or need repairs to resolve.. Cold starts are different now...much quieter.
Please do a oil analysis report after running this. Would love to see what comes back. Do disclose it when you send the sample in if you do.After a little digging I think I’m going to give Luqui Moly Cera Tec a go.
https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/us/ce...5Kt9G_UJuu3APxnuS0zROWZq9xoCp0QQAvD_BwE#20002