?

[Puch]

I

Sponsored

 

[BUZZHEAD]

Just a couple tricks I learned in the 80s
Take wipers off, cover black plastic with tape (easier clean up after you fling the compound everywhere )
Take your time at low speed always keep moving buffer.
My buffer would take it down to the metal quickly.
Good luck

 

[Puch]

X

 

[BUZZHEAD]

Thanks.
“My buffer would take it down to the metal quickly” - Doesn’t make me feel any better about trying this. But I appreciate the warning. Haha

IT can be dialed to 4800 rpm .Oh and remove the att. I have caught one with the buffer wasnt pretty.

 

[KevinC]

Chemical Guys makes good stuff
Make sure the buffer pad is clean and free of anything that will scratch
Set speed on buffer correctly and apply enough down force to freely move pad

Note- If you feel the scratches are underneath a coating (ceramic), I would be hesitate about thinking a buffer pad with cutting compound will get down to it. I'm not that confident in my skills. Are you?

 

[jac04]

My advice is to use a DA polisher and good quality pads. Also, always start with the least aggressive pad & compound to see how the paint & scratches react. IMO, it is better to have to keep polishing than to wish you hadn't polished as much.

I really like Meguiar's 205. I find that it works well for light defects. I use also use M105, which is more aggressive, but not often on paint (I like to use it as a glass polish).

 

[Cburd61]

Get you a cheap orbital polisher from Harbor freight. About $20. It only has one speed, but won’t burn the paint, unless you just hold it down in one spot for a while. Use the Meguires, and a couple of the wool pads they sell too. Let the polisher do the work, and keep it moving. I did dent/paint repair for BMW before I retired, but, I use the polisher I just mentioned for personal projects. it may take a little longer, but, it’s really easy to cut through the clear coat and into the base coat, even to the metal with the “big” polishers.

 

[Lunentucker]

Be particularly careful on edges and corners, where a small patch of surfaces is taking the full pressure and RPM's of the forces. You can easily get chatter and burn on those places.
I would first use a quality stripper to make sure that you're down to the clearcoat surface. I went over my whole JT with a citric acid based water spot remover first, and a lot imperfections came off with the top coat of ceramic/wax.

 

[Camaroboi13]

Dual action is the way to go. Buffers that just spin in circles are great in the hands of professionals, but they also cause swirls that you need to remove with a DA anyways.

 

[Scott0700]

Good advice here. I’d add in that I always clay bar a vehicle before I buff. You want every contaminant off the paint before you hit it with a buffer/polisher.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Max shine m8s is a good starter buffer m15 is good too but long throw needs more of an eye and a bit of experience….
Porter cable 7424 is also one that many people learn how to buff with- though I think the force rotation of the max shine is better sooner when learning.
Lake country pads are good and last years If take care of properly.
menzerna fg400- little pressure in the beginning it acts like a compound, light pressure and it breaks down quick for polishing. Really going for show finish?-chase it with fg3800

 

[starrskream]

if you use foam pads for buffing keep them moist with a quick detailer spray. like 1 spritz from 8" away is plenty. you dont want it wet, just damp. A hot foam pad will eat paint and the pad.

 

[annlopez]

If you're new to buffing, it's best to begin with a dual-action polisher to reduce any potential risks. Chemical Guys' starter set is a good option to consider. Remember to apply gentle pressure, keep the buffer in motion, and focus on small areas at a time. If you're uncertain, it might be safer to seek assistance from a professional detail shop.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

The only buffing I’ve ever done is by hand and used some scratch removing agent. This has been for top scratches, not scratches under a coating. I’d be more than nervous putting any kind of power spinner/orbital on my body panel if I didn’t first try it on someone else’s or on some door panel at a ‘pick-a-part’ salvage yard or maybe your local mechanic shop has some pile of car panels behind his shop you can gain some experience on.

This is not the time to learn by “trial and error” on your own surfaces.

Sponsored