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Alignment Issue

Renegade

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Pretty sure you need the droop to get it settled right, don't quote me on that but I don't think you'll get the results you want doing it on the flat pavement.
Suspension components should generally be tightened and torqued with weight on the suspension. Otherwise, they will be in a bind when driving. If all the joints on the new components are of a non-binding type, this does not apply...
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LoJac963

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^exactly, I had read this on multiple sites. The bushings need to have the vehicle weight on them prior to torquing so they do not bind and try to pull other components out of alignment and prematurely fail. I installed my Mopar kit his week and have zero issues with driving. I actually see multiple improvements over stock. My front on the other hand is 1/4" lower on the passenger side which I find odd.......
 

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They aren't even that inexpensive. You can save a few bucks with these, but not enough to make sense compared to the RK for 37 bucks more on Northridge. Suspension isnt someplace where I would cheap out for that small of a savings.
 

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They aren't even that inexpensive. You can save a few bucks with these, but not enough to make sense compared to the RK for 37 bucks more on Northridge. Suspension isnt someplace where I would cheap out for that small of a savings.
true! Good point
 
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UPDATE:

I verified the springs were in the correct location. Then loosened and re-torqued all parts. At the same time I decided to give geometry correction brackets a try in order to correct the caster. The main reason for these over the adjustable control arms was the ability to better align the LCA with the axle after the lift. In theory flattening this angle will smooth out the ride.

Install was a breeze and my shade tree mechanic skills tell me the caster is corrected. I'll bring it in for alignment here soon, but that wasn't an option over the holiday weekend.

After install of course I took her for a drive. There was still a slight pull/push to the right, but not nearly as bad as it was. So, I took her home and pulled the steering stabilizer. Boom, straight as an arrow!

So, between correcting the caster and pulling the steering stabilizer I was able to fix the issue. Plus, she rides soooo smooth now!

I'll throw the stock steering stabilizer back on later today and see how that goes. With no stabilizer I didn't notice any issues at all after 45 mins of driving on various types of roads so I'll see how things go.

Thank you everyone for your input and willingness to share your knowledge to help me correct this issue!
 

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Gren71

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UPDATE:

I verified the springs were in the correct location. Then loosened and re-torqued all parts. At the same time I decided to give geometry correction brackets a try in order to correct the caster. The main reason for these over the adjustable control arms was the ability to better align the LCA with the axle after the lift. In theory flattening this angle will smooth out the ride.

Install was a breeze and my shade tree mechanic skills tell me the caster is corrected. I'll bring it in for alignment here soon, but that wasn't an option over the holiday weekend.

After install of course I took her for a drive. There was still a slight pull/push to the right, but not nearly as bad as it was. So, I took her home and pulled the steering stabilizer. Boom, straight as an arrow!

So, between correcting the caster and pulling the steering stabilizer I was able to fix the issue. Plus, she rides soooo smooth now!

I'll throw the stock steering stabilizer back on later today and see how that goes. With no stabilizer I didn't notice any issues at all after 45 mins of driving on various types of roads so I'll see how things go.

Thank you everyone for your input and willingness to share your knowledge to help me correct this issue!
which correction brackets did you go with? ive been beating around the idea of these vs adjustable arms. Also thinking about a rear track bar
 
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beefcake

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which correction brackets did you go with? ive been beating around the idea of these vs adjustable arms. Also thinking about a rear track bar
The rancho brackets. I’ve been thinking about the rear track bar as well. I’m not sure the adjustable is necessary as there is a relocation bracket for it at this height that will work just fine. However, the adjustable one would provide more options for the future.
 

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The rancho brackets. I’ve been thinking about the rear track bar as well. I’m not sure the adjustable is necessary as there is a relocation bracket for it at this height that will work just fine. However, the adjustable one would provide more options for the future.
where did you find the ranch ones? I see them on their website but not elsewhere. I see some from aev and others on quadratec I like. Did you install your self?

I may end up with the rear track bar it self just to have since I have the adjustable front.
 

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So glad I ran across this thread as I've been wondering at which lift height does one really need to consider longer fixed control arms, adjustable control arms, or the geometry correction brackets from either Rancho or RC?

OP, glad to hear things are finally working out for you.
 
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where did you find the ranch ones? I see them on their website but not elsewhere. I see some from aev and others on quadratec I like. Did you install your self?

I may end up with the rear track bar it self just to have since I have the adjustable front.
I ended up sourcing them locally rather than online this time around. I did install them myself. I installed everything myself for that matter.
 

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I ended up sourcing them locally rather than online this time around. I did install them myself. I installed everything myself for that matter.
nice. I try to but occasionally time gets the best of me.

im still really thinking adjustable rear track bar so i can dial in the rear for sure.
 
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nice. I try to but occasionally time gets the best of me.

im still really thinking adjustable rear track bar so i can dial in the rear for sure.
what are you trying to dial in with that? Aa far as I know all that does is center the axle. My axle ended up being spot on in the rear. That said, you may need it but you may not. Order if you can return it. If not, order after you know for sure you need it. It’s become apparent to me that Jeeps are just different enough to validate this.
 

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what are you trying to dial in with that? Aa far as I know all that does is center the axle. My axle ended up being spot on in the rear. That said, you may need it but you may not. Order if you can return it. If not, order after you know for sure you need it. It’s become apparent to me that Jeeps are just different enough to validate this.
I already checked and when I lifted the jeep the rear moved towards the passenger side. In addition to correcting the rear sway bar with new ends I want to re center the rear axle. Especially now that Ive corrected the front. I like the idea of the adjustable because it allows for continued adjustment, not just a fixed adjustment that a bracket would allow for. The brackets are about %50 cheaper than the adjustables so in my mind, I spend the $ now once on the adjustable rear track bar and its done. If I get the bracket and decide to lift later im spending the additional $ on top of the cost of the bracket. If i get the adjustable now im already set for another lift down he road with no added cost to re center the rear.
 

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I already checked and when I lifted the jeep the rear moved towards the passenger side. In addition to correcting the rear sway bar with new ends I want to re center the rear axle. Especially now that Ive corrected the front. I like the idea of the adjustable because it allows for continued adjustment, not just a fixed adjustment that a bracket would allow for. The brackets are about %50 cheaper than the adjustables so in my mind, I spend the $ now once on the adjustable rear track bar and its done. If I get the bracket and decide to lift later im spending the additional $ on top of the cost of the bracket. If i get the adjustable now im already set for another lift down he road with no added cost to re center the rear.
I'm not trying to talk you out of an adjustable rear track bar, but keep in mind that the suspension should ideally travel up and down in as linear a path as possible. When you lift, the track bar angle is increased, contributing to more lateral movement during suspension travel. Rock Krawler's 4-link system eliminates this entirely by doing away with the track bar. A track bar bracket not only (often) recenters the axle, but also corrects suspension geometry for proper suspension travel. Is one entirely necessary in every case? No, but it's not quite as simple as one or the other.
 

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I'm not trying to talk you out of an adjustable rear track bar, but keep in mind that the suspension should ideally travel up and down in as linear a path as possible. When you lift, the track bar angle is increased, contributing to more lateral movement during suspension travel. Rock Krawler's 4-link system eliminates this entirely by doing away with the track bar. A track bar bracket not only (often) recenters the axle, but also corrects suspension geometry for proper suspension travel. Is one entirely necessary in every case? No, but it's not quite as simple as one or the other.
Sorry for hijacking the OPs thread :headbang:

gotcha. Its my understanding that the rear axle is moved during the lift because of the fixed length of the track bar. so though it travels in a up and down linear movement, it is still off center. The bracket (or adjustable TB) would recenter the rear axle. Im not doing rock crawling or anything, just road and beach. The adjustable TB would allow me to have more control over making sure it is centered, and stays centered, while allowing for change if I go higher with a different lift. I all but ruined my JKU by never correcting and re centering anything after a couple of lifts. So i want to have it all re centered and corrected for the JT and hopefully avoid the problems I had with my jku.
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