Anderson connector on side cowling

[KQL]

Hello everyone,

I find that I have to open the hood for 2 frequent uses
1) plug my battery tender onto the battery when not driving for a while
2) attach my compressor to battery with alligator clips when airing back up

The way I park the truck in my garage, I can't open the hood (there is a shelf over the hood when I pull in). I can solve use #1 by getting trailer plug adapters for my battery tender (NOCO), but that doesn't help with #2.

I've seen some folks cleverly replace the driver's side cowling with one from 4xe to get a door and onboard air chuck behind it, pretty great, but i don't want to make my compressor permanently mounted.

So I am thinking of installing an exterior-facing anderson connector that's hard-wired to the battery and then converting my NOCO charger and compressor to anderson plugs as well.

My compressor claims to need 45 amps, so I am thinking a 50A connector with 10-8AWG wire behind it (pretty short run ~3 feet to the battery). I am a little concerned about having live connector physically unprotected and available to any passerby, but I suppose it's not very different than our trucks having live pins in the trailer connector. I would probably choose a connector/mount with, or install a 50A inline fuse under the hood as well.

Can anyone think of any precautions or concerns I might be missing?

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[Viper501]

You could wire a relay into an Aux switch. Then you can turn it on from inside when you need it and keep it off when you don’t want someone playing games with it.

 

[antwon412]

I ran power and an anderson connector to the bed of my truck. At the time, I also thought it would be handy to be able to plug my air compressor in when I wanted to.

Ended up being much and here to hardwire the compressor under the hood attached to one of the auxiliary switches. And then ran a airline from the compressor and mounted the chuck on the bumper.

 

[Blade1668]

I've mounted a Anderson connectors on multiple occasions; my XJ front and rear, Wrangler Unlimited and one on back of my Gladiator. Larger sized, I have a small ones used in few locations on my JT and one direct to battery for air compressor use. If you want it go for it, but you might want to buy a replacement cowl piece or the 4XE one. Another option is mounting it in wheel well area too, out of sight when not in use.
FYI using the 4XE one you can possibly P....O... the EV crowds.

 

[KQL]

That’s a good point about installing the connector in a new cowling piece bought just for this purpose. I wouldn’t care that it’s black and unpainted, but then I could reinstall the painted one if ever sell the truck.

I have seen people refer to trickle charging receptacles in the wheel well/fender area, but having trouble visualizing it. Wouldn’t it be constantly sprayed by road grime? Or where are folks putting these in that area?

The 4xe cowling even for this use did occur to me, but the price seems pretty steep for the cowling and the door. Not sure I’m that committed to this project. I’d have to fab something to fill the charging hole, since I think I need a solid flat surface to install the Anderson connector/face plate onto. But would be pretty good looking for sure (and solves the “don’t modify the painted cowling” issue). Hmmm.

 

[KQL]

You could wire a relay into an Aux switch. Then you can turn it on from inside when you need it and keep it off when you don’t want someone playing games with it.

Considered this as well (I have my winch relay being controlled by an Aux switch). But would that allow me to charge the battery through it when the truck is off?

 

[Black Bear]

Please post an update. I think that’s a great solution. It’ll look so clean!

 

[Jimmij]

I mounted my battery tender in the front grill. Barely notice it is there and easily reversible.

 

[Radio Guy]

The removable cowl side piece is very curved and it will be hard to get a flat socket to fit right. The batterie(s) should be on the passenger side of the truck and if you put the socket on the drivers side you will need at least 6ft of cable, probably more to route it nice. Don't forget a fuse.

 

[bgott]

Hello everyone,

I find that I have to open the hood for 2 frequent uses
1) plug my battery tender onto the battery when not driving for a while
2) attach my compressor to battery with alligator clips when airing back up

The way I park the truck in my garage, I can't open the hood (there is a shelf over the hood when I pull in). I can solve use #1 by getting trailer plug adapters for my battery tender (NOCO), but that doesn't help with #2.

I've seen some folks cleverly replace the driver's side cowling with one from 4xe to get a door and onboard air chuck behind it, pretty great, but i don't want to make my compressor permanently mounted.

So I am thinking of installing an exterior-facing anderson connector that's hard-wired to the battery and then converting my NOCO charger and compressor to anderson plugs as well.

My compressor claims to need 45 amps, so I am thinking a 50A connector with 10-8AWG wire behind it (pretty short run ~3 feet to the battery). I am a little concerned about having live connector physically unprotected and available to any passerby, but I suppose it's not very different than our trucks having live pins in the trailer connector. I would probably choose a connector/mount with, or install a 50A inline fuse under the hood as well.

Can anyone think of any precautions or concerns I might be missing?

Somebody posted something like that in the last week or two. I think they mounted their connector in a hole they cut in the fake vent in their right fender flare.

 

[KQL]

Somebody posted something like that in the last week or two. I think they mounted their connector in a hole they cut in the fake vent in their right fender flare.

Didn’t see the post, but that fake grill area caught my eye also. Being black already, the black cover on the connector would be much less visible. I’ll try some google searching to see if I can find it.

 

[KQL]

The removable cowl side piece is very curved and it will be hard to get a flat socket to fit right. The batterie(s) should be on the passenger side of the truck and if you put the socket on the drivers side you will need at least 6ft of cable, probably more to route it nice. Don't forget a fuse.

Yeah, turned the truck around in the garage to get access to the hood and indeed, the pure firewall distance is ~4ft, plus 20-24 inches to get to the battery from the firewall without being too tight. So six feet minimum is about right. For the fuse, I’m thinking something like this

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/viair-mini-anl-fuse-holder-with-2x50-amp-fuse-92964

 

[Radio Guy]

Yeah, turned the truck around in the garage to get access to the hood and indeed, the pure firewall distance is ~4ft, plus 20-24 inches to get to the battery from the firewall without being too tight. So six feet minimum is about right. For the fuse, I’m thinking something like this

I would use a much larger fuse like 100A or even 150A. That will provide less voltage drop through the fuse and its only there for something catastrophic like your compressor shorting out or something shorting out the Anderson connector. You could even upsize everything to maybe a 175A Anderson version like used on electric fork lifts with 200A fuse, then you could use a portable winch or other high current toys. That would also be handy for jumpstarting with a custom jumpstart cable where you wouldn't have to open the hood and have an accident with the cable clamps at the battery.

 

[KQL]

I would use a much larger fuse like 100A or even 150A. That will provide less voltage drop through the fuse and its only there for something catastrophic like your compressor shorting out or something shorting out the Anderson connector. You could even upsize everything to maybe a 175A Anderson version like used on electric fork lifts with 200A fuse, then you could use a portable winch or other high current toys. That would also be handy for jumpstarting with a custom jumpstart cable where you wouldn't have to open the hood and have an accident with the cable clamps at the battery.

Totally see the benefit of stepping up for the compressor use, but any downsides when it comes to battery tender doing its job through thicker cables that would likely be behind the 175A connector? Looks like maybe it’s calling for 1/0awg in the 175 description (as opposed to 10/8awg behind a 50 amp one).

Edit: I see the 175 can also be wired with 6awg
https://www.ctals.com.au/collections/what-size-anderson-plug

 

[Radio Guy]

Totally see the benefit of stepping up for the compressor use, but any downsides when it comes to battery tender doing its job through thicker cables that would likely be behind the 175A connector? Looks like maybe it’s calling for 1/0awg in the 175 description (as opposed to 10/8awg behind a 50 amp one).

Yes you would want to run larger cables with a 175A Anderson. I've standardized several things here with that size from spare 100AH portable batteries in marine cases to a bank of 100AH batteries under my radio work bench to high current power supplies and HF amplifiers for amateur radio, etc. I've made good use of my portable 100AH battery to power radio equipment in the field and starting dead vehicles with this short jumper cable. In this case I used 4ga wire on the jumper cable. I also think its better to upsize the power connector rather than using a 50A rated connector for a 45A load.

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