"Regular plug" as in a 110v outlet plug? If so, you'll need to run heavy gauge wire back to the bed from an inverter that is mounted very close to the battery.Id love to get my hands on a regular plug to install in the bed. Ive seen guys on here put in 12v outlets. Ill go that route if i cant figure out the standard plug id prefer.
any direction would be outstanding
You may be able to order the 110v outlet for the bed from Mopar parts. The inverter requires heavy gauge wire, so it should be mounted as close to the battery as possible. The 110v wiring from the inverter to the outlet only needs to be 12 gauge for a 20 amp outlet.Id love to get my hands on a regular plug to install in the bed. Ive seen guys on here put in 12v outlets. Ill go that route if i cant figure out the standard plug id prefer.
any direction would be outstanding
Here's another thread about this, that has the part number for the bed outlet.Id love to get my hands on a regular plug to install in the bed. Ive seen guys on here put in 12v outlets. Ill go that route if i cant figure out the standard plug id prefer.
any direction would be outstanding
Yeah I'm saving this one for inspiration. I wanted to do something like this beacuse I'll have a cap with a cupboard above it on that side and I wanted a dual viair setup in the bed somewhere. That's an excellent way to keep that stuff separated and protected without being too obtrusive into the rest of the cargo space.This is what I did to solve that issue.
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If you look at my setup you will see I have a 12v ARB plug. I hand the inverter to run a grinder and some other tools in a pinch. It will be rarely used and is more for an emergency is just need a strong 110v. I had the room and have had the need for 110v over my years of wheeling.19JL that's a good set up. I did a large inverter on my Humvee I had during first part of my 03-04 Iraq trip. Mounted on back of my seat about like that. My question is what the heck is everyone wanting to run on 120 AC? Is it's a fridge are you planning on a Costco dorm fridge or a T.V? Or are you converted 12v to 120 AC to be converted back to 12 v by the fridge like the ARB one's. I was using mine to power a bunch of different power bricks (laptops ECT) and chargers. It was good bit harder to find and get 12,v ones there then. I'm not trying to sharpshoot just wondering what needs that over a small gas generator that sips gas compared to a 3.6 engine.
How did you wire from the battery to the access panel. I'm going to hook up my fridge back there with my ARB wiring kit, but I can't make sense of where I should be routing the wire. Thanks in advance. Nice set up.This is what I did to solve that issue.
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I ran it basically along the top of the frame inside of black wire loom and zip tied it to the factory wire harness already running along that same route.How did you wire from the battery to the access panel. I'm going to hook up my fridge back there with my ARB wiring kit, but I can't make sense of where I should be routing the wire. Thanks in advance. Nice set up.
Awesome, I was wondering where this was located. Would you are anyone in the forum would happen to know the wiring harness part number for this unit?Here is my 400 watt unit and the part number that is installed under my dash. If you search the part number the diagram will include the plug part number in the bed. You can literally plug and play it. The wire gauge is not that big. Its not needed until you are in the 100s of amps. These units have a 50 amp plug under the hood and use about 10 guage from the battery to the unit under the steering wheel. The wiring going to the plug in the back is only about 12 to 14 gauge. Remember when the voltage goes up, the amperage goes down. 400 watts into 120 volts is about 3.3 amps of pull across wiring. This of course is in the stock form.
Inverter Power Outlet - Mopar (68375111AA)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/19-20-Ram-...-Inverter-Factory-Mopar-New-Oem-/392322532358
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