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Any regrets running load range E tires?

wvyankee2

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E's are better for hauling loads or trailering. Much more stability due to less tire roll. Also better for airing way down without concern of splitting sidewall or breaking bead. They are pretty much better at everything except for Sand wheeling.
 

DanW

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E's are better for hauling loads or trailering. Much more stability due to less tire roll. Also better for airing way down without concern of splitting sidewall or breaking bead. They are pretty much better at everything except for Sand wheeling.
True for trailering and load hauling and I'd consider them for heavy trailering. But the published max gross weight on the JT won't exceed a C rated tire's rated capability. These are light duty trucks. But traction? No. The C actually has advantages there, especially in rocks and on sand and some mud where you need floatation. For some mud, digging down is better. You can't always anticipate which kind of mud situation in which you'll find yourself, so that's moot.

Btw I've never broken a bead, even running 10psi on a C rated tire. Not close. Narrow rims 7.5-8.5 inches, have more to do with keeping them seated than the load rating. In fact,.narrower rims are called "poor man's beadlock" by some Moab guides. A C on a narrow rim aired down will have less chance of unseating than an E on wider rims, given the same pressure and conditions and make/model of tire, generally. (Different tire brands might vary.). Also, the E tire has to air down more to gain more flex, and thus, traction. More traction = less spin. Less spin = fewer tears/ punctures, easier on the drive train components. Since the C doesn't have to air down as much to gain the flex, any advantage to the E on keeping seated is lost since the C can maintain higher pressure.

For heavy towing, though, I agree and would look at an E. For off roading, I'd go C all the way, and of course, for on road, too. But that's just me. I've had both and both performed well. E was just much more uncomfortable and jarring.

All should keep this in mind, as well. Airing down too much causes flex where tires aren't designed to flex. Too low a psi for too long can damage the tire internally. Never go back on road aired down, for that reason. That goes for any load rating. Safety first!

Mainly, think carefully about what you need and desire in your tire, then decide. I recommend a tire with a money back trial period. General offers 45 days, I believe. Not sure about the others. At the end of the day, many of the differences are not night and day, except maybe at extremes. But they are enough that you can feel them. So again, go with one with a good return policy so you don't get stuck. (No pun intended! Lol!)
 
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RiverMtnBeach

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Yes. Load E 35x12.50 17 BFG KO2’s are hard as a rock and you’ll feel every crack on the road. Running mine at 26psi and it’s still barely acceptable on pavement with joints.
Weighing my options with the tire store right now on what it’ll cost me to switch to the Load C 315/70 17 version same tire.
 

RiverMtnBeach

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Vincent

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Love my Load range E tires, I'll never run another type in a BFG
Just curious, where’s your tire pressures at? I just purchased a set of BFG KO2’s (E) and currently sit @ 35lbs.
 

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Thank you kindly! I’ll try that out too. Sweet rig!
Mines a Max Tow so I keep a little extra in the rear for towing purposes. On my JKU I found the 35 12.5 17 BFG KO2S e rated were better at 28 to 30lbs. This is the first time I've ran the 315 70 17 BFGs and I had them at 33lbs at first but it was a little soft and springy for my liking. After a few tries this setup seems to feel the best to me. Another note I noticed was these seem to be wearing slightly better than the 35 12.5 17's. I got almost 18,000 miles on these and they have minimal wear. At 18,000 on the 35 12.5 17's I was around 60% tread life maybe slightly better than that. I got about 44,000 miles out of them and maybe could of ran them a little longer. I was good with that. I can see myself getting close to 60,000 miles out of these, I'm still at probably 90% tread life.
 

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Vincent

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Mines a Max Tow so I keep a little extra in the rear for towing purposes. On my JKU I found the 35 12.5 17 BFG KO2S e rated were better at 28 to 30lbs. This is the first time I've ran the 315 70 17 BFGs and I had them at 33lbs at first but it was a little soft and springy for my liking. After a few tries this setup seems to feel the best to me. Another note I noticed was these seem to be wearing slightly better than the 35 12.5 17's. I got almost 18,000 miles on these and they have minimal wear. At 18,000 on the 35 12.5 17's I was around 60% tread life maybe slightly better than that. I got about 44,000 miles out of them and maybe could of ran them a little longer. I was good with that. I can see myself getting close to 60,000 miles out of these, I'm still at probably 90% tread life.
Well noted and thx for the extra info! I don’t have max tow but I do load the bed up. I don’t mind my truck feeling like a truck and not a cowboy Cadillac like my wife’s bougie F-150, lol! I’ll start out with the same pressures you’re running and “massage” it if needed. I do live in northern Indiana so we deal with snow so it’ll be interesting to see what works best. :jk:
 

sandman83

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I put BFG KO2's on my stock Overland rims; 285/60/20. It's a LT tire, rated E and i'm running them at 50psi. My daily commute is 24 miles highway at 73 mph and back roads mostly at 45. I've dropped mpg down to 25 from 28.8 and the ride isn't great.
Considering going back to the stock tires, but i don't like the way they look. Expensive investment @ $2k with the dealer recalibration. I'll drop the psi, but i imagine that'll cost me more mpg.
 

Jeeperjamie

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I put BFG KO2's on my stock Overland rims; 285/60/20. It's a LT tire, rated E and i'm running them at 50psi. My daily commute is 24 miles highway at 73 mph and back roads mostly at 45. I've dropped mpg down to 25 from 28.8 and the ride isn't great.
Considering going back to the stock tires, but i don't like the way they look. Expensive investment @ $2k with the dealer recalibration. I'll drop the psi, but i imagine that'll cost me more mpg.
50 is way to high to be running them. You should be in the 33 to 40 range and find the sweet spot. Your not going to lose much if anymore MPGs but 50 is ridiculously high, especially on our JTs.
 

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Just to reinforce what Jamie said:

50 is way to much. You should only consider above 40 if you’re hauling/towing.

36 psi will likely make both you, your Jeep, and your tires happier.
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