Anyone switch from AEV 2.5" to 3" HD springs?

[remlemasi]

AEV 2.5" dual sport with Teraflex rear geometry correction brackets and Teraflex progressive bump stops. Stock 33" tires. Approximately 600 pounds extra weight.

AEV 3" dual sport with Teraflex rear geometry correction brackets and Teraflex progressive bump stops. Stock 33" tires. Approximately 1190 pounds extra weight.

How often are you making use of and engaging the Teraflex progressive bump stops. Wondering if I should throw them on or just keep stock?

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[Wolf Island Diver]

For those who did the upgrade from 2.5” to 3” (or even those who decided to stick with 2.5”), was there any wallowing or excess motion on the 2.5” that was solved by the 3”? Or is it mainly to gain extra lift to compensate for the extra weight?

Shock valving is the same between 2.5” and 3” kits correct?

Couple more questions:

1) Was an adjustable front track bar upgraded needed to center to front axle, either with 2.5” or 3”?
2) Is spring bowing an issue? Did anyone use the upgraded (non-AEV) lower spring isolator pads to correct it? Or just use the stock ones?

I switched from 2.5 to 3. The main reason it to regain lost rake and compensate for additional weight. The truck does ride more stiffly and I guess handling is a little tighter. But these are still long soft springs for a truck. They will not change the Gladiator into a Miata. Additionally, I feel like the shocks are a little underdamped for the 3 inch springs. AEV makes extremely expensive reservoir shocks for the 3 inch kit, so they’re not the same but they claim you can run the same shocks. They work, but I’d prefer more rebound damping. All that being said I’m really happy with the on-road performance of the AEV lift and even more happy with these 3 inch springs. I’m also running a Hellwig rear swaybar since installing 2.5 lift. I think that makes a big difference too.

AEV claims you don’t need a track bar with the 2.5. I feel like you can make it work, but your axle will not be fully centered. The 3 inch springs will make this worse. I switched to a Synergy adjustable track bar. The Hellwig and Synergy are cheap worthwhile upgrades. AEVs swaybar extension boots also don’t last. I’m still running mine but I’d prefer to upgrade these at some point. I haven’t noticed spring bowing but I haven’t really looked. The truck performs really well on and off road.

 

[remlemasi]

I switched from 2.5 to 3. The main reason it to regain lost rake and compensate for additional weight. The truck does ride more stiffly and I guess handling is a little tighter. But these are still long soft springs for a truck. They will not change the Gladiator into a Miata. Additionally, I feel like the shocks are a little underdamped for the 3 inch springs. AEV makes extremely expensive reservoir shocks for the 3 inch kit, so they’re not the same but they claim you can run the same shocks. They work, but I’d prefer more rebound damping. All that being said I’m really happy with the on-road performance of the AEV lift and even more happy with these 3 inch springs. I’m also running a Hellwig rear swaybar since installing 2.5 lift. I think that makes a big difference too.

AEV claims you don’t need a track bar with the 2.5. I feel like you can make it work, but your axle will not be fully centered. The 3 inch springs will make this worse. I switched to a Synergy adjustable track bar. The Hellwig and Synergy are cheap worthwhile upgrades. AEVs swaybar extension boots also don’t last. I’m still running mine but I’d prefer to upgrade these at some point. I haven’t noticed spring bowing but I haven’t really looked. The truck performs really well on and off road.

This is really helpful. I picked up a used kit for $100 (lol). Came with the 2.5” springs, 5100 shocks, bump stock extensions, sway bar end links. Got the TeraFlex rear track bar tower ($50 used on amazon) and Rancho geo brackets ($175 used on amazon). Figured I’ll just run this for a bit, see how it handles before doing the 3” upgrade in the future.

Do you think airbags are needed for the 2.5” before I upgrade to 3”? I have around 600lbs constant weight added over my stock Sport Max Tow (RLD topper + iKamper + bumper, skids, recovery stuff) and that’s before all the usual camping gear. I have airbags on my Max Tow springs and it helps so much.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

This is really helpful. I picked up a used kit for $100 (lol). Came with the 2.5” springs, 5100 shocks, bump stock extensions, sway bar end links. Got the TeraFlex rear track bar tower ($50 used on amazon) and Rancho geo brackets ($175 used on amazon). Figured I’ll just run this for a bit, see how it handles before doing the 3” upgrade in the future.

Do you think airbags are needed for the 2.5” before I upgrade to 3”? I have around 600lbs constant weight added over my stock Sport Max Tow (RLD topper + iKamper + bumper, skids, recovery stuff) and that’s before all the usual camping gear. I have airbags on my Max Tow springs and it helps so much.

I’ve never run airbags so I can’t speak to those. I run a Diamondback cover, front runner slimline over top of that, enclosed with paneling, 8 gallon waterport, OVS awning, 63qt fridge, slide out, 1 or 2 ROAM boxes, 1 or 2 additional NATO water cans, a massive recovery bag, house battery system and tons of gear including a T8 tent a beach cart with cooler off the hitch and frequently a pizza oven . With the 2.5s I sat even front to back and the rear end felt mushy, like I was moving someone or carrying a load concrete for a home project. Not a good feel for off roading. With the 3s I retain rake while loaded down so I’ve still got the capacity for off roading. I think the 2.5s will work. I’d see how it looks and drives and then decide. Just remember with the 3s you will have to reminded all the control arms since they use bushings. It looks like this with all my crap:

 

[remlemasi]

I’ve never run airbags so I can’t speak to those. I run a Diamondback cover, front runner slimline over top of that, enclosed with paneling, 8 gallon waterport, OVS awning, 63qt fridge, slide out, 1 or 2 ROAM boxes, 1 or 2 additional NATO water cans, a massive recovery bag, house battery system and tons of gear including a T8 tent a beach cart with cooler off the hitch and frequently a pizza oven . With the 2.5s I sat even front to back and the rear end felt mushy, like I was moving someone or carrying a load concrete for a home project. Not a good feel for off roading. With the 3s I retain rake while loaded down so I’ve still got the capacity for off roading. I think the 2.5s will work. I’d see how it looks and drives and then decide. Just remember with the 3s you will have to reminded all the control arms since they use bushings. It looks like this with all my crap:

Lol, looks great. I might be up there with you when fully loaded for a multi-day trip...

2.5" springs don't require recentering the control arm bushings?

 

[chorky]

How often are you making use of and engaging the Teraflex progressive bump stops. Wondering if I should throw them on or just keep stock?

When I was on the standard 2.5" coils I was making use of them all the time. I was essentially bottoming out any time I was at a decent speed out camping. Granted, my weight was well over the standard coil capacity so that had a lot to do with it. I was pushing 7000 pounds on the standard coils which is well into the HD coil territory. Once I swapped to the HD coils, I didnt bottom out once.

I will say, the progressive bump stops are awesome, and they are basically a poor mans hydro stop. So bottoming out feels like falling 4 or 5 pillows rather than falling on concrete. I would question what your weight situation is and what coil springs you are using first. If you are currently bottoming out, even if just here and there, then I would 100% put in the progressive bump stops. IMO, they are far too cheap for the performance they offer. I wish I could put them on every vehicle I own.

Do you think airbags are needed for the 2.5” before I upgrade to 3”? I have around 600lbs constant weight added over my stock Sport Max Tow (RLD topper + iKamper + bumper, skids, recovery stuff) and that’s before all the usual camping gear. I have airbags on my Max Tow springs and it helps so much.

You are for sure in the HD coil territory. the 2.5" coils are 'good' for up to 400 pounds over stock (GVW). HD's are good to 700 over stock. So get your truck scaled. I would suggest trying the 2.5 coils with the progressive bump stops first. Drive it unloaded, and then loaded for a long trip and see how it handles and feels. If you are hitting bump stops all the time I would try bags as that gives you more adjustability. The 3" coils are definitely very stiff compared to the 2.5's. Looking back on my own build I would have tried for bags first before going to the HD coils.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Lol, looks great. I might be up there with you when fully loaded for a multi-day trip...

2.5" springs don't require recentering the control arm bushings?

They do. Any lift really does unless you convert to heim joint control arms. But the industry has moved away from those. The stock or stockish bushings are better for vibration. Heim joints transmit a lot of shock. The point is that any bushing should be rest so that they’re not under tension at rest. AEV requires loosening all control arms for the 2.5 and retorquing on the ground.

 

[remlemasi]

When I was on the standard 2.5" coils I was making use of them all the time. I was essentially bottoming out any time I was at a decent speed out camping. Granted, my weight was well over the standard coil capacity so that had a lot to do with it. I was pushing 7000 pounds on the standard coils which is well into the HD coil territory. Once I swapped to the HD coils, I didnt bottom out once.

I will say, the progressive bump stops are awesome, and they are basically a poor mans hydro stop. So bottoming out feels like falling 4 or 5 pillows rather than falling on concrete. I would question what your weight situation is and what coil springs you are using first. If you are currently bottoming out, even if just here and there, then I would 100% put in the progressive bump stops. IMO, they are far too cheap for the performance they offer. I wish I could put them on every vehicle I own.




You are for sure in the HD coil territory. the 2.5" coils are 'good' for up to 400 pounds over stock (GVW). HD's are good to 700 over stock. So get your truck scaled. I would suggest trying the 2.5 coils with the progressive bump stops first. Drive it unloaded, and then loaded for a long trip and see how it handles and feels. If you are hitting bump stops all the time I would try bags as that gives you more adjustability. The 3" coils are definitely very stiff compared to the 2.5's. Looking back on my own build I would have tried for bags first before going to the HD coils.

All very helpful. Thank you. I was recycling some metal last week and it weighed 5700 lbs with all the constant load gear I mentioned above, half-tank of gas, but without any temporary camping stuff.

I’ll try the 2.5” springs as-is with progressive bump stops first. Add bags or Hellwig rear sway or upgrade to 3” HD as-needed.

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