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Hootbro

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Gotta disagree a bit and say - Not necessarily.
That's the lore out there, but multiple members have found it to be the main battery after ASSUMING and replacing the aux battery.
More than one has replaced the aux and gone back and bought a main battery.
I've observed at least 3 forum members state that the main battery was either the culprit, or as bad as the aux.

Sadly the internet has made the aux battery a bad guy.

Since batteries lose capacity over time, especially in the type of use many of these see (occasional use, short drives) I can't see putting a new battery in with one that has diminished capacity.
I did not say it was an absolute.

Your hubris gets ahead of you sometimes in how you read into things.
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ShadowsPapa

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I did not say it was an absolute.

Your hubris gets ahead of you sometimes in how you read into things.
Sorry, but how you worded it was that it was most likely and that's misleading.
Like mentioned, most likely the AUX battery.
And we're finding that isn't really the case.
People have been going by the "most likely" and replacing that, assuming, only to find it's the main battery.

People will see that and go out and then "well, they said it was most likely"...........

How about saying - it's likely one or both batteries? That's fully accurate is it not?

I've seen as many cases of main battery as aux.
 

Hootbro

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Sorry, but how you worded it was that it was most likely and that's misleading.


And we're finding that isn't really the case.
People have been going by the "most likely" and replacing that, assuming, only to find it's the main battery.

People will see that and go out and then "well, they said it was most likely"...........

How about saying - it's likely one or both batteries? That's fully accurate is it not?

I've seen as many cases of main battery as aux.
I disagree with your disagreement. But I could give two shits less. You get rolling like a freight train and it is the ShadowsPapa viewpoint and nothing else. Lacking actual supplier failure rate data, we have a difference of "opinion", sans anecdotal threads here or there that does not paint the whole picture.

The whole argument is moot in the OP's case as more than likely he will get the dealership to check it out under warranty and they will replace what single battery is bad or both if bad.

I like you, but you have this habit of wall of text posts trying to steer the thread to places it does not need steering to.
 
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Mad Mac

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Thank you, Gatorized, for the chime delete.
I'm in and out, opening and closing gates
and checking things on the property.
Only driving five miles an hour.
The chime was so annoying.
Thank you, thank you.
 

Vtur

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It was the aux battery for me when it kept on displaying "battery is charging". Maybe "not ready" means the main battery? ??‍♂
 

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BringTheLightnin

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I do have a question about taking it in for warranty. Do I need to remove my pulsar? If so do I need to change the bracket back to the OEM or can I leave the Pulsar bracket on and just take the Pulsar off? It's a bit of a pain to totally redo the whole thing all over again. Even just getting the pulsar on and off was a bit more difficult than originally thought due to AC lines being in the way
 

Hootbro

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I do have a question about taking it in for warranty. Do I need to remove my pulsar? If so do I need to change the bracket back to the OEM or can I leave the Pulsar bracket on and just take the Pulsar off? It's a bit of a pain to totally redo the whole thing all over again. Even just getting the pulsar on and off was a bit more difficult than originally thought due to AC lines being in the way
I would take it off. You are taking it in for an electrical issue and you want to mitigate anything they could point at and say that is the problem. Then you are on the backside of the issue trying to get it fixed
 

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Personally, I would replace any 3 year old batteries, especially if they're beginning to show signs of causing problems.
Also personally, I WILL be deleting the AUX battery when my time comes, and upgrading the main battery.

I'm simply not going to have something that could strand me, AND be beyond parking lot repairable. It's a poorly designed and poorly implemented "solution" to shoehorn EPA numbers on the window sticker.

The AUX battery has earned its bad reputation. It's not folklore or fairy tales that it has caused numerous Jeep drivers grief and inconvenience with little to no advanced warnings. If you're fortunate enough to have gotten advanced warnings, it would be wise to heed them.
 

Hootbro

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Bracket too?
Probably could get away with leaving the bracket but that is no guarantee of outcome with whatever individual at the dealership looks at and tries to connect the dots when they really do not connect.

You are doing risk mitigation.
 
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BringTheLightnin

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Personally, I would replace any 3 year old batteries, especially if they're beginning to show signs of causing problems.
Also personally, I WILL be deleting the AUX battery when my time comes, and upgrading the main battery.

I'm simply not going to have something that could strand me, AND be beyond parking lot repairable. It's a poorly designed and poorly implemented "solution" to shoehorn EPA numbers on the window sticker.

The AUX battery has earned its bad reputation. It's not folklore or fairy tales that it has caused numerous Jeep drivers grief and inconvenience with little to no advanced warnings. If you're fortunate enough to have gotten advanced warnings, it would be wise to heed them.
Was definitely thinking of the antigravity batteries and deleting the aux when warranty expires.

Probably could get away with leaving the bracket but that is no guarantee of outcome with whatever individual at the dealership looks at and tries to connect the dots when they really do not connect.

You are doing risk mitigation.
Almost worth just doing the antigravity instead of warranty work ?
 

Hootbro

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Almost worth just doing the antigravity instead of warranty work ?
I feel ya. I did the aux battery delete on my 2021 Willys while still in warranty, but I assumed the possible risk.

There is a value to peoples time and sometimes for things like what you are dealing with, just going your own way and taking care of it yourself is more prudent.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Personally, I would replace any 3 year old batteries, especially if they're beginning to show signs of causing problems.
Yes, that seems to be typical life for these - both of them.

The problem with taking things from the Youtube certified engineers and those "guessing" that's what caused the issue is that it's not always accurate. You may see 50 posts on the web out there claiming the aux battery killed their dog or made their kids flunk kindergarten, but many of them are wrong.
Look at all of the posts here showing it was the main battery causing issues.
If one is showing signs, the other likely is as well because they are experiencing the same environment, the same voltages, the same use. And they are connected in parallel.
People bash what annoys them or they don't understand or they make up explanations, whatever. But one shouldn't go by amateur electricians. Most of them say you can't jump start a Jeep with a dead battery without jumping hoops and that's simply not the case except in very very rare cases. They weren't doing it right to begin with.

Almost worth just doing the antigravity instead of warranty work
Warranty will get you the same size and capacity batteries you have now.
Doing it yourself you can choose the batteries. You can move up a size if you have a JT that has the smaller main battery (JT without aux switches gets a different battery than those with the factory aux switches)
If you go that route, charge them both before installation. Do not rely on anyone saying "they are charged and ready to go". YOU do the charging with a good AGM charger (or one capable of charging AGM batteries properly)
And disconnect the IBS leaving it off the battery disconnected for 10-15 minutes, install it back as normal. That way it's reset and ready to relearn on fully charged batteries.
The charging and voltage patterns in the "system" are configured for AGM batteries. That's how it's going to treat any battery you install. (If I replace mine in the future - I'll see if I can configure the CCA and capacity numbers in there for the new batteries because they even have that configured in these)

My experience with dealers and electrical issues - you may well be better off just buying top quality batteries, the largest capacity that will fit and doing it yourself.
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