Aux Battery Bypass ?

[jebiruph]

Why is it better?
I know there are a few ways to bypass or replace the aux battery, but why is pulling the fuse better?
Just trying to increase my knowledge on this issue.

The link explains it.

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[Gatorac]

This method would still seem to be an easier way. That is what I did several months back. I haven't had any issues. The annoying ESS is gone. The mod cost $0. I guess maybe it costs less than a dollar if you figure in some electric tape and wire ties.

I will completely remove the aux battery when I have an opportunity to dig down in there.

 

[Lost1wing]

I was referring to the "monty python" clip not the conversation of the thread.

No you weren't!

 

[FLACRACKER]

Understood !

 

[ShadowsPapa]

This method would still seem to be an easier way. That is what I did several months back. I haven't had any issues. The annoying ESS is gone. The mod cost $0. I guess maybe it costs less than a dollar if you figure in some electric tape and wire ties.

I will completely remove the aux battery when I have an opportunity to dig down in there.

The problem with the above is that the F42 and removing the aux battery ground does not make ESS go away. This has also been discussed ad nauseam around here. People don't understand, they don't get what that method does and does NOT do.
Claims that it disables ESS are incorrect. (it works at least 6 times as has been reported by people who have done the fuse pull and who have an otherwise perfectly working truck with functional ESS)
If ESS isn't working, your PCM believes you have some other issues with that truck. There are over 2 dozen things that control whether or not ESS will work - likely part of your truck is constantly failing other tests.
Removing F42 ONLY prevents the PCM from opening the PCR to check the aux battery. If the fuse is pulled, the PCR can't open but the PCM doesn't know this and sees the main battery voltage and assumes there's an aux battery there because the main battery is connected to the N1 through the PCR that can't open.

This is what happens when non-electricians assume and pass along erroneous information and why the OP is so confused.

ESS isn't annoying to me, it saves fuel, and it's a great troubleshooting tool as if it's not working, you have troubles with the truck somewhere.

I suspect this is thread number 153 on the topic.

 

[Flyboy2109]

Why bother with the kit? I simply removed the aux batt and put the cables on the main battery, they reach. Problem solved and no worries about the aux batt dying. No follow on problems. Simple is better.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Why bother with the kit? I simply removed the aux batt and put the cables on the main battery, they reach. Problem solved and no worries about the aux batt dying. No follow on problems. Simple is better.

Until your main battery dies LOL
And they die in number pretty close to the other.

As far as a kit - it's the P.T. Barnums of the world selling to unknowing people. Look around on Amazon and eBait - full of cheats and kits and i sit back and laugh and think - seriously? people buy this stuff making a vulture's pockets even fatter?

There are hundreds of solutions out there for non-problems. But among some groups of consumers there's the "i own it so I can do anything with it, owning it proves I'm smarter" or "I have a wrench therefore I am a tech" and they see this stuff, then post about what a wonderful thing they've accomplished. (while those who know sit back and shake their heads)

I could make those things by the dozens and make a killing, but I don't like to cheat people or lie to them, and see no reason for a fuse anyway. So I'd take a length of wire, properly crimp on open barrel connectors, seal the connections with marine grade heat shrink and could make some money. Or I could be honest and say - don't listen to the bs out there, ya just don't need that thing.

 

[obrianmcc]

My AUX shit the bed and then took the starter battery with it ... I actually DO spend significant time "off grid" and wanted to lessen the chance of being stranded by the AUX. I deleted the AUX a year ago and never looked back. I could care less about the ESS ... it still works as designed.

 

[Mike G.]

Thanks for all the info!!!
I think I'm just going to leave it alone!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

My AUX shit the bed and then took the starter battery with it ... I actually DO spend significant time "off grid" and wanted to lessen the chance of being stranded by the AUX. I deleted the AUX a year ago and never looked back. I could care less about the ESS ... it still works as designed.

I have an idea for a circuit that would pretty much get rid of the chance of either battery draining the other while sitting. Still thinking through all scenarios, and how practical it would be, ease of installation and so on, but it hit me - is there a solid reason for the batteries to be connected in parallel when just sitting in a garage?

 

[AstroZombie]

Page one gave me cancer....they argue about the dumbest things over there..

yeah, i lost interest about 6 posts deep.

 

[AstroZombie]

I have an idea for a circuit that would pretty much get rid of the chance of either battery draining the other while sitting. Still thinking through all scenarios, and how practical it would be, ease of installation and so on, but it hit me - is there a solid reason for the batteries to be connected in parallel when just sitting in a garage?

Probably putting my foot in my mouth responding but my understanding is wiring in parallel adds the mA together from both batteries. Series adds the voltages together. Series would be bad because it's not a 24v system.
In my field of work we use teh 12v7aH battery. our system wire them parallel. This give us 14aH to operate on. Essentially providing more duty cycles of the system. You are almost making a deep cycle battery by creating a larger amp pool to draw from. Perhaps having the little battery on the side give just enough extra amps to operate the doohicky responsible for teh ESS. Who knows. Bypassing it may cause premature battery failure by using more than the alternator can compensate for or maybe every killing the alternator sooner. I just hit 40k and have literally no electrical issues at all (fingers crossed)
Please correct me or elaborate

 

[AstroZombie]

The problem with the above is that the F42 and removing the aux battery ground does not make ESS go away. This has also been discussed ad nauseam around here. People don't understand, they don't get what that method does and does NOT do.
Claims that it disables ESS are incorrect. (it works at least 6 times as has been reported by people who have done the fuse pull and who have an otherwise perfectly working truck with functional ESS)
If ESS isn't working, your PCM believes you have some other issues with that truck. There are over 2 dozen things that control whether or not ESS will work - likely part of your truck is constantly failing other tests.
Removing F42 ONLY prevents the PCM from opening the PCR to check the aux battery. If the fuse is pulled, the PCR can't open but the PCM doesn't know this and sees the main battery voltage and assumes there's an aux battery there because the main battery is connected to the N1 through the PCR that can't open.

This is what happens when non-electricians assume and pass along erroneous information and why the OP is so confused.

ESS isn't annoying to me, it saves fuel, and it's a great troubleshooting tool as if it's not working, you have troubles with the truck somewhere.

I suspect this is thread number 153 on the topic.

ESS doesn't bother me at all. I have had enough cars over the years with it's just the way it is.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Probably putting my foot in my mouth responding but my understanding is wiring in parallel adds the mA together from both batteries. Series adds the voltages together. Series would be bad because it's not a 24v system.
In my field of work we use teh 12v7aH battery. our system wire them parallel. This give us 14aH to operate on. Essentially providing more duty cycles of the system. You are almost making a deep cycle battery by creating a larger amp pool to draw from. Perhaps having the little battery on the side give just enough extra amps to operate the doohicky responsible for teh ESS. Who knows. Bypassing it may cause premature battery failure by using more than the alternator can compensate for or maybe every killing the alternator sooner. I just hit 40k and have literally no electrical issues at all (fingers crossed)
Please correct me or elaborate

In parallel you have a larger pool to draw from - yes, in a sense a larger battery.
But when it's running, all systems should be being fed by the alternator. The primary purpose of the alternator is to operate the electrical systems of a running engine and vehicle, secondary is to top off the battery after a start, or when draw exceeds the capability of the alternator.
During an ESS stop - you are actually drawing from both batteries. I've got to do some more testing, and am rigging up to do that, but I've noted that the voltage of the main battery drops off at an almost equal rate to that of the aux battery during an ESS event.

Doesn't bother me, either. Interesting what some find "annoying" and how or why it's annoying.

As far as being stranded - if you have a jump pack that's worth a crap, it's still pretty easy to get a dead Jeep going (been there, done that, Grand Cherokee - proper jump starting procedure and it worked every time)
The problem is that you have to build voltage up in a larger combined battery if both are down. Some jump packs just don't deal with that capacity, or more often, people are impatient, connect, hop in and try to start it and then bitch when it won't crank. (DUH)
So you pull the ground cable assembly off the top of the IBS, connect your jump pack to the main battery positive and to the ground cable combination you just pulled off the IBS. Wait for the jump pack to overcome the low aux battery voltage and then start it.
Otherwise you have to wait for the jump pack to overcome the low voltage of both batteries and that takes more doing and time.
We've had Jeeps with these systems for years. The only time we had battery issues were on an almost 3 year old Grand Cherokee that sat a lot - might go a week between drives. Sometimes if was a week and a half. Each time the thing was dead, I easily jump started it - easily. I was patient, made the connections, told my wife to sit tight a minute or so, then try it. Started fast and fine each time until I got it to the dealership for new batteries under warranty.
As said in a dozen places here already - batteries can go bad in several different ways. They don't always "take out" another battery. And it can be either battery that's the issue. Trying to start one with a main battery that went bad and drained the aux battery is the same thing - patience after the connections are made, or, reduce the battery capacity by removing the ground cables from the top of the IBS and jump start using only the aux battery. Unless it's a dead short - which is very very rare, it will work and easily so.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Thanks for all the info!!!
I think I'm just going to leave it alone!

That's a smart move.

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