Aux Switches

[Jaxmax]

I have the Voswitch JL300, and love it, but I wanted on all the time with master off switch on panel, the JL300 has six aux switches, which go in dash same place as factory. I already have four going into my bed with cap on it, Air Compressor, water pump, refrigerator, and one switch to feed a center off dual switch for red and white interior lighting. Still have room for a winch control, and whatever else. All of mine will be off unless I need to have one on to prevent accidently draining the battery.......Jack

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[cafecito]

Those are great videos — thank you.

I couldn't find anything, anywhere, on how to actually release the pin / orange wire from the connector. It seems to be a problem many people are having, given the number of horror stories of broken connectors, and ESS and other faults.

After some messing about, I managed to release it without screwing up the connector housing. Here's a quick pic showing what I believe to be the release tab. You have to engage the slot at the end of the red arrow and lift gently while pulling on the orange wire.

Hope this helps someone.

The Jeep Journal video shows it. You use a de-pinning tool. His girlfriend/wife asks him which size he used after he does it.

Granted it's not a close up, but he does say what to use and how to do it.

 

[cafecito]

I just got this done last weekend. Here's a few more pointers/tips/advices for anyone else reading this thread in the future:

1. Don't underestimate the part where you need to run zip ties through that plastic channel to secure the wires coming from the PDC. That thing is TIGHT. I was able to shove a trim removal tool from the top to bottom and create a gap for the zip tie to get through, but I swore the plastic was going to break at any moment. It's not a very elegant solution for the cable, but it's what Mopar gave us.
2. Some folks will tell you that you can push the center of the rivets out of the fender liner and reuse them, but it's a bigger pain than it's worth. They splay out pretty severely (which is the idea) after being installed, and shoving them back through flimsy plastic at the end is annoying, especially when you've done everything else. Just get a cheap rivet gun and do it the right way with the new rivets Mopar includes.
3. That said, I'm not even convinced that you need to remove the fender liner at all. With the way I managed to pierce the grommet for passing the cables to the cabin, I ended up being basically looking up at the grommet from beneath the truck. All having the fender liner peeled away did was give me some more light. There is one huge wiring harness that blocks your view and access pretty badly, but it's easy to unclip and pop out of the firewall while you're working. Speaking of the grommet...
4. Don't try to do everything at once. I cannot stress this enough - TAKE YOUR TIME. A mistake here can brick your vehicle. At the 6:00 position of each side of the grommet, there is a very malleable, flimsy part that is easy to pierce. Start with something small like a nail or pick (I used a paracord fid) to just make a tiny hole. Add a little WD40 to something slightly larger, and go again, and make the hole a little bigger. (It's basically like foreplay.) By the time I was ready to attempt passing my fish through, I had pierced both sides at least 3 times with different sharp objects to kind of create a lubricated funnel effect for whatever I poked the grommet with. This minimized the chances that I would jab it in the wrong spot (because you can't really see in there anyway). For the final push, I used a wire coat hanger, but bent in half, and arced slightly (about the circumference of a basketball). I didn't want anything sharp going through there, and the wire from the coat hanger was rigid enough to pass through both of the holes that I had made with ease. Again, slow and steady wins the race here. I started getting impatient and tried pushing hard a few times, and immediately stopped myself. I promise, if you have to use any amount of strength, you're not in the right area. Create two well-lubed pilot holes, bend a coat hanger in half, and it'll glide through like butter.
5. Clean as much of the WD40, grease, or whatever lube you used as you can before doing the main cable pull. You really don't need it that badly (I didn't anyway), and it just makes everything a mess with the electrical tape. Speaking of...
6. COLORED ELECTRICAL TAPE. I saw another user suggest this, and I wish I had done it as well. It's really hard to tell where your tape ends and Mopar's starts. It's not the end of the world if you go too far, but it's just a nice peace of mind. Another idea would be to just use blue painter's/masking tape. As long as the cables slide through the grommet, there should be no reason you need MORE electrical tape on top of what Mopar already put there.
7. To pull off the kick panel, start at the front, and pull towards the middle of the vehicle. You want to pull OUT, not up. It's a pain, but not impossible.
8. Depinning the big wiring harness in the passenger footwell was by far the worst part of this install for me. I looked up every video I could find, and even read all the comments in this thread, and I still couldn't get it. What ended up working was pressing the narrowest depinning key that I had in ABOVE the pin, and then some. I know these pins are delicate, but don't be afraid to use a little muscle here. I really had to press to get the pin in far enough that it unlocked the pin. Press it all the way in, and the orange wire should come out the back easily. If you pull on the wire and it's not moving, you don't have it unlocked.
9. I've seen a LOT of people complaining about the black connector for the orange wire Y connection. I think the issue is that people don't realize there are locking mechanisms on both sides of the connectors that seat the pins in place, just like the red one you pulled off the larger wiring harness earlier. The problem is, mine was already locked when I opened my kit, and I didn't realize it. If you're putting the pins and plugs into the connectors, and they aren't making a very audible click and seating nicely, odds are that the lock was already depressed into the connector. You can disassemble them and fish the lock out pretty easily if you really want to do things the right way. Or, I've heard of others that just said fuck it and soldered the two orange wires together. Your choice, but the connector works fine if you seat and lock everything properly.
10. I used JScan to update my ECU, and I had to make 4 different updates. There are 3 under Adaptations, and one under Modules (something about the cabin). However, if the Aux Switch options don't show up right away, don't panic. Mine took an overnight cycle to show up, even after I did multiple forced reboots. Just be patient.

Hope that helps. If you're stuck on this project, feel free to shoot me a message anytime - I'd be happy to help.

 

[ecidiego]

I just got this done last weekend. Here's a few more pointers/tips/advices for anyone else reading this thread in the future:

1. Don't underestimate the part where you need to run zip ties through that plastic channel to secure the wires coming from the PDC. That thing is TIGHT. I was able to shove a trim removal tool from the top to bottom and create a gap for the zip tie to get through, but I swore the plastic was going to break at any moment. It's not a very elegant solution for the cable, but it's what Mopar gave us.
2. Some folks will tell you that you can push the center of the rivets out of the fender liner and reuse them, but it's a bigger pain than it's worth. They splay out pretty severely (which is the idea) after being installed, and shoving them back through flimsy plastic at the end is annoying, especially when you've done everything else. Just get a cheap rivet gun and do it the right way with the new rivets Mopar includes.
3. That said, I'm not even convinced that you need to remove the fender liner at all. With the way I managed to pierce the grommet for passing the cables to the cabin, I ended up being basically looking up at the grommet from beneath the truck. All having the fender liner peeled away did was give me some more light. There is one huge wiring harness that blocks your view and access pretty badly, but it's easy to unclip and pop out of the firewall while you're working. Speaking of the grommet...
4. Don't try to do everything at once. I cannot stress this enough - TAKE YOUR TIME. A mistake here can brick your vehicle. At the 6:00 position of each side of the grommet, there is a very malleable, flimsy part that is easy to pierce. Start with something small like a nail or pick (I used a paracord fid) to just make a tiny hole. Add a little WD40 to something slightly larger, and go again, and make the hole a little bigger. (It's basically like foreplay.) By the time I was ready to attempt passing my fish through, I had pierced both sides at least 3 times with different sharp objects to kind of create a lubricated funnel effect for whatever I poked the grommet with. This minimized the chances that I would jab it in the wrong spot (because you can't really see in there anyway). For the final push, I used a wire coat hanger, but bent in half, and arced slightly (about the circumference of a basketball). I didn't want anything sharp going through there, and the wire from the coat hanger was rigid enough to pass through both of the holes that I had made with ease. Again, slow and steady wins the race here. I started getting impatient and tried pushing hard a few times, and immediately stopped myself. I promise, if you have to use any amount of strength, you're not in the right area. Create two well-lubed pilot holes, bend a coat hanger in half, and it'll glide through like butter.
5. Clean as much of the WD40, grease, or whatever lube you used as you can before doing the main cable pull. You really don't need it that badly (I didn't anyway), and it just makes everything a mess with the electrical tape. Speaking of...
6. COLORED ELECTRICAL TAPE. I saw another user suggest this, and I wish I had done it as well. It's really hard to tell where your tape ends and Mopar's starts. It's not the end of the world if you go too far, but it's just a nice peace of mind. Another idea would be to just use blue painter's/masking tape. As long as the cables slide through the grommet, there should be no reason you need MORE electrical tape on top of what Mopar already put there.
7. To pull off the kick panel, start at the front, and pull towards the middle of the vehicle. You want to pull OUT, not up. It's a pain, but not impossible.
8. Depinning the big wiring harness in the passenger footwell was by far the worst part of this install for me. I looked up every video I could find, and even read all the comments in this thread, and I still couldn't get it. What ended up working was pressing the narrowest depinning key that I had in ABOVE the pin, and then some. I know these pins are delicate, but don't be afraid to use a little muscle here. I really had to press to get the pin in far enough that it unlocked the pin. Press it all the way in, and the orange wire should come out the back easily. If you pull on the wire and it's not moving, you don't have it unlocked.
9. I've seen a LOT of people complaining about the black connector for the orange wire Y connection. I think the issue is that people don't realize there are locking mechanisms on both sides of the connectors that seat the pins in place, just like the red one you pulled off the larger wiring harness earlier. The problem is, mine was already locked when I opened my kit, and I didn't realize it. If you're putting the pins and plugs into the connectors, and they aren't making a very audible click and seating nicely, odds are that the lock was already depressed into the connector. You can disassemble them and fish the lock out pretty easily if you really want to do things the right way. Or, I've heard of others that just said fuck it and soldered the two orange wires together. Your choice, but the connector works fine if you seat and lock everything properly.
10. I used JScan to update my ECU, and I had to make 4 different updates. There are 3 under Adaptations, and one under Modules (something about the cabin). However, if the Aux Switch options don't show up right away, don't panic. Mine took an overnight cycle to show up, even after I did multiple forced reboots. Just be patient.

Hope that helps. If you're stuck on this project, feel free to shoot me a message anytime - I'd be happy to help.

Thanks for all the tips. Having a go this weekend.

RE: the grommet, I am just going to pull the tray and hit that nipple up top. It seems like a big PITA but it really shouldn't be. I have the front trailcam wiring to run at the same time.

 

[cafecito]

Thanks for all the tips. Having a go this weekend.

RE: the grommet, I am just going to pull the tray and hit that nipple up top. It seems like a big PITA but it really shouldn't be. I have the front trailcam wiring to run at the same time.

Just make sure you check how the wiring comes out of the grommet in the cabin. Mine makes a pretty sharp turn upwards, which makes going through the top much more difficult (and precarious).

 

[redman43]

Also make sure the harness doesn't get wrapped up around something else in the engine bay before going through the grommet. I was too far into the install when I realized I had done that and couldn't turn back at that time. I lost maybe 6 inches of the overall harness length. Fortunately, there was *just* enough slack to get everything where it needed to go, but it was much closer than I would have preferred.

 

[Kaumajet]

I just got this done last weekend. Here's a few more pointers/tips/advices for anyone else reading this thread in the future:

1. ...

Excellent points. Wish I'd seen the one about the grommet before tackling mine.

Another point I'll add is to be sure that you disconnect the battery. I know that sounds obvious, but I left mine connected and simply didn't hook up the positive wires from the aux switch system. You can't short what isn't powered, right? Yeah, but...

HOWEVER, when you unplug the large connector to deal with the orange wire, your computer loses all contact with the rest of the truck, and it goes haywire. I made matters worse by attempting to start the truck to turn the wheel — with the connector unplugged. Let me tell you, that's not an experience I wish to repeat. As soon as I hit the starter button, the wipers started wiping, the warning bells started warning, and the panel started scrolling through all the systems that were not available.

After the shock wore off, I figured out that the connector was unplugged and sorted it out. There were 9 (I think) codes to clear after.

When I went out to finish the install the next day, I left the battery connected again (because, hey, that's how I roll). I didn't turn the truck on at all, but still got the codes when I was done.

Bottom line: Disconnect the battery. Take it out and bring it in the house. Lock it in the bathroom.

Good luck!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I made matters worse by attempting to start the truck to turn the wheel — with the connector unplugged.

You can turn the wheels without starting the truck. There's no lock, there's just no power assist. It's difficult, but when doing suspension work, shocks, whatever, I don't start the truck to turn the front wheels. (but then I started driving in the 70s - no power steering)

 

[Kaumajet]

You can turn the wheels without starting the truck. There's no lock, there's just no power assist. It's difficult, but when doing suspension work, shocks, whatever, I don't start the truck to turn the front wheels. (but then I started driving in the 70s - no power steering)

Yes, I'm aware of that, and also started driving in the 70s, but the fact remains that I started the truck to turn the wheels.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yes, I'm aware of that, and also started driving in the 70s, but the fact remains that I started the truck to turn the wheels.

Some here have assumed - even insisted - that these had a steering lock and that you could not possibly turn the wheels with the engine off - just wondering - and wondering why people start the engine to turn the wheels, that's all............

 

[ecidiego]

Finished mine. 2 things were absolutely hell:

1. Orange wire #13. FML. Got it done. 5 hours on that step.

2. AlfaOBD. Didn't think to look at a setting under Suspension to turn on the Aux Switches.

The rest was easy, including removing the PDC to access the firewall nipple. Took a lot of lube to get the harness through. The nipple is smaller than pics online would make you believe. Lol at typing that but hey it is true!

Orange wire made a 2 hour job a 7 hour job for me.

 

[OffroadAlliance.com]

The OEM switches are great but being stuck with only 4 is a bit limiting, in my opinion. I like brands such as sPod or Switch Pro that give you the option for many more switches so you always have more room for fun things to install.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

LOL - for some, yeah, but the majority of Jeep owners, and that's what the markets go by - that's what the research looks for - "most" , not "a few", more than get by with 4.
In fact, most get by without them at all. I'm still waffling about getting them as I find a use one day and then ask - who am I trying to convince, the next.
My only uses would be to trigger the intense bumper-mounted LED backup lights for when hooking up to a trailer or loading a trailer at night. And if lights are it - then I could maybe use one other, but I'd never even fill 4.
Only those dressing up with a half-dozen sets of lights and some other accessories for specific uses will get beyond the 4.
And since you are in marketing and sell accessories, it makes sense you think anything else is not enough ;-)

 

[Rockabillyroy]

I went with the trigger 6 shooter. Bought it on sale during black friday. Didn't feel like running wires. Easiest system aux I've installed.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I went with the trigger 6 shooter. Bought it on sale during black friday. Didn't feel like running wires. Easiest system aux I've installed.

Is that the wireless setup? Switches inside that transmit to the "works" outside under the hood?
That's an option I'd consider due to ease of installation - but I also look for mixed options as far as some hot ignition off, some hot only while acc or run position.........

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