Battery replacement help!

[McQueen21]

Needs some help please.
I changed both batteries yesterday. After charging batteries before install all batteries show 12.7-13.1. When I went to start it all lights and acc come on but will not turn over. I did the IBS reset for 8 hrs while charging the batteries. When Tested the fuse array the N3 which is the start stop fuse is 10-12v. all others aRE 12.7 OR higher. Do you think that is the issue? If it is how difficult is it to switch out? 2020 JT Sport S

Thanks for the help.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Needs some help please.
I changed both batteries yesterday. After charging batteries before install all batteries show 12.7-13.1. When I went to start it all lights and acc come on but will not turn over. I did the IBS reset for 8 hrs while charging the batteries. When Tested the fuse array the N3 which is the start stop fuse is 10-12v. all others aRE 12.7 OR higher. Do you think that is the issue? If it is how difficult is it to switch out? 2020 JT Sport S

Thanks for the help.

N3 isn't the "start stop fuse". It's the fuse to charge the aux battery via the alternator.
If you fully charged both batteries, even if the N3 was blown you'd not know it for a while as the battery would have a full charge. The N3 being blown would only be noticed after some stop/start cycles taking power from the aux battery.
Do you have 12.7 volts at N1 - the one closest to the front of the truck?

N4 is power to the PDC, make sure that's hot.
N5 is the cooling fan (not a concern yet) and N6 is the EHPS or the electro-hydraulic power steering pump (not a concern yet)

 

[McQueen21]

Yes 12.7 at #1, #3 was the low one, but maybe that one will go up once it starts? I have no idea what to check. I check fuse f3 and f42 both are good.

 

[Lunentucker]

Remove the AUX ground and see if it makes any difference.
Did you go in from the top side, via the fusebox, or through the fender liner?

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I had this issue when I installed both batteries with new ones and reset the IBS. Got it all buttoned down and the truck wouldn’t start.

I did the install of the aux through the top as well so after realizing I’d have to retrace my steps and go back in by taking it all out and filling the air with grammar I didn’t know I had, I just got to it and I got about half way and saw I hooked up one of those single wires that nut down on the posts N1 through N5 or 6 in the wrong spot, I think it was the dead post and once I unhooked that one and put it in the right place, URIKA, it started.

 

[DesertDog]

There’s an elephant in the room no one seems to really talk about. What the hell has happened with the complexity of all these vehicles. Why? They don’t run any better. They don’t do anymore. They actually do less as the reliability is more likely to leave you stranded and surprised. During Covid, it was all about Automotive backlog due to chip manufacturers. At the same time I’m looking out of the driveway at my Chevy Colorado that didn’t have a single chip and ran better than any of these new vehicles.
just got my 2021 gladiator back from the shop again for the third time. Each shop visit takes about six weeks but the real issue is failing or going into limp mode in the most dangerously remote of the west. This technology is completely stupid and dangerous as hell. I want my 89 Toyota 4 x 4 pick up back. I need a vehicle I can trust.

 

[sharpsicle]

There’s an elephant in the room no one seems to really talk about. What the hell has happened with the complexity of all these vehicles. Why? They don’t run any better. They don’t do anymore. They actually do less as the reliability is more likely to leave you stranded and surprised. During Covid, it was all about Automotive backlog due to chip manufacturers. At the same time I’m looking out of the driveway at my Chevy Colorado that didn’t have a single chip and ran better than any of these new vehicles.
just got my 2021 gladiator back from the shop again for the third time. Each shop visit takes about six weeks but the real issue is failing or going into limp mode in the most dangerously remote of the west. This technology is completely stupid and dangerous as hell. I want my 89 Toyota 4 x 4 pick up back. I need a vehicle I can trust.

I would completely disagree. Vehicle capability, reliability, and output has increased dramatically. A lot of that has to do with the very things you’re complaining about. Yes, there are more complex systems at work that sometimes can take a little longer to solve, but that doesn’t make it an evil boogie man you need to be afraid of.

Every time I hear something like this, I have to wonder. If you want your 89 Toyota back, why don’t you just go get an 89 Toyota? It’s probably because you like the very things that this vehicle provides you that you are complaining about. There’s a lot of nostalgia that is covering up how truly bad some vehicles were in the 80s and 90s.

 

[Hootbro]

There’s an elephant in the room no one seems to really talk about. What the hell has happened with the complexity of all these vehicles. Why? They don’t run any better. They don’t do anymore. They actually do less as the reliability is more likely to leave you stranded and surprised. During Covid, it was all about Automotive backlog due to chip manufacturers. At the same time I’m looking out of the driveway at my Chevy Colorado that didn’t have a single chip and ran better than any of these new vehicles.
just got my 2021 gladiator back from the shop again for the third time. Each shop visit takes about six weeks but the real issue is failing or going into limp mode in the most dangerously remote of the west. This technology is completely stupid and dangerous as hell. I want my 89 Toyota 4 x 4 pick up back. I need a vehicle I can trust.

Your Chevy Colorado was not computer chip free either but I get it, you are a bit jaded cause you bought a modern diesel that has it's own set of problems when they do break.

You should probably trade your Gladiator in for something else as it seems you are going to just stew in your own juices until you do. All I can say, is the grass is not always greener elsewhere.

I owned both a 1986 and also 1989 Toyota Pickup back in the day and can relate to the simplicity of them but just about all cars back then were the same way. That being said, it is 35+ years later and this version of me likes the amenities of today's vehicles vs. back then and really do not pine for another older analog type vehicle as a daily.

 

[Lost1wing]

N1 and N2 should be the same. If N3 has a lower reading than N1 and N2, my guess is that the N3 fuse is open. You are reading the values of batteries separated by the open N3 fuse. Another possible explanation for the difference in voltages is the PCR relay circuit is open. I would separate the grounds at the IBS again, charge both batteries.

It might help removing the fender ground and making it the last connection.

 

[Lost1wing]

My first modification was installing my aux switch panel. I was naive when it came to ESS, never had a vehicle with one. I pulled the negative terminal off of the main battery( only one so I thought). I ran my wiring, installed the switches and relays only to run out of time for the day. I attempted to start the Jeep only to find your exact scenario. I learned about the other battery and it was 10vdc or so. I removed the fender ground and charged the aux to full with the wrong type charger. My N3 was not open so I am assuming that the PCR was open giving me the voltage difference. Once I finished charging the Aux, I made sure my connection at the main negative terminal were sound before connecting the fender ground. The Jeep started with only one issue, start stop was not working with the battery charging message. I follow the advice of ShadowsPapa and reset the IBS and charged both batteries independently with an Agm charger.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Tough place to be stuck in

There’s an elephant in the room no one seems to really talk about. What the hell has happened with the complexity of all these vehicles. Why? They don’t run any better. They don’t do anymore. They actually do less as the reliability is more likely to leave you stranded and surprised. During Covid, it was all about Automotive backlog due to chip manufacturers. At the same time I’m looking out of the driveway at my Chevy Colorado that didn’t have a single chip and ran better than any of these new vehicles.
just got my 2021 gladiator back from the shop again for the third time. Each shop visit takes about six weeks but the real issue is failing or going into limp mode in the most dangerously remote of the west. This technology is completely stupid and dangerous as hell. I want my 89 Toyota 4 x 4 pick up back. I need a vehicle I can trust.

I appreciate your being candid about your Jeep experience on here and yes, to some degree I would agree and support your frustration. After 2 engines, 4 transmissions and 3 power steering pumps in 74k kms you’d think I would have given up. But there was just this feeling inside that ‘this whole truck needs to be rebuilt to be awesome’ and I believe at this point in time, I have that awesome truck.

The trick to dealing with the complexities of the truck is to understand them. If you spend the time to read lots and poke around under the hood and underneath you’ll quickly realize just how simple this thing is, except for the computer stuff but I believe they are robust and upgrades in components (batteries and such) is what’s necessary to take it to the next levels.

We also have to realize that we got our vehicles in one of the worst perfect storms that could hit us all at the same time. Covid hit every aspect of life and systems known to us and the quality of how things were made and put together we’re not immune.

I believe that for the most part if we exercise patience and dive in to learn how simple these complexities are, you come out the other side a super champ that will have a 1000% more knowledge about your vehicle than the guy next to you with the same issues that needs help. (I’ve been told this)

You learn about better products and work-a-rounds and it just gets easier and can even save you time from having to leave it at the shop for another 6 weeks.

I too love seeing these other Toyotas that have 500+ kms on them and am pretty proud of the owner that loves to maintain it. I’m probably the loudest squealing pig at a classic car and truck show and you can bet every owner of these vehicles knows the ins and outs of their vehicle blindfolded and you have to be that and more with your vehicle.

 

[McQueen21]

There’s an elephant in the room no one seems to really talk about. What the hell has happened with the complexity of all these vehicles. Why? They don’t run any better. They don’t do anymore. They actually do less as the reliability is more likely to leave you stranded and surprised. During Covid, it was all about Automotive backlog due to chip manufacturers. At the same time I’m looking out of the driveway at my Chevy Colorado that didn’t have a single chip and ran better than any of these new vehicles.
just got my 2021 gladiator back from the shop again for the third time. Each shop visit takes about six weeks but the real issue is failing or going into limp mode in the most dangerously remote of the west. This technology is completely stupid and dangerous as hell. I want my 89 Toyota 4 x 4 pick up back. I need a vehicle I can trust.

What's this got to do with battery replacement? If you don't like your jeep get rid of it. End of story. Quit bitchin about.

 

[DesertDog]

Didn’t mean to offend. I just don’t see the need for more than one battery and such a wonky procedure to replace it/them. I’m a Jeep fan with currently an Ecodiesel, Pentastar, and an ETorque. I was just expecting the Ecodiesel to actually keep running once leaving town. I guess I was asking too much. It’s just that my old ‘77 Benz with over 350,000 miles still hasn’t needed a major wrench on it. I thought that we’d be doing better by now.

 

[Hootbro]

It’s just that my old ‘77 Benz with over 350,000 miles still hasn’t needed a major wrench on it. I thought that we’d be doing better by now.

The fact that close to 70% of new Mercedes Benz vehicles sold today in the USA are leased will tell you how well they are in the reliability department.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Didn’t mean to offend. I just don’t see the need for more than one battery and such a wonky procedure to replace it/them. I’m a Jeep fan with currently an Ecodiesel, Pentastar, and an ETorque. I was just expecting the Ecodiesel to actually keep running once leaving town. I guess I was asking too much. It’s just that my old ‘77 Benz with over 350,000 miles still hasn’t needed a major wrench on it. I thought that we’d be doing better by now.

The second battery is there to keep the computers and electronics stable. They provide some odd behaviors when the voltage gets low. The location is what it is, there is no better place to install it. The two battery design has been in use by 'Benz' for at least ten years. The biggest problem is the poor quality batteries shipped with the vehicle, and the lack of understanding about how the system works.

The problems with the Ecodiesel are a whole separate pile of crap that Jeep fell into.

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