Bcm replacement?

[Cheyenne32]

I have been told I need to replace my BCM in my 2020 Gladiator and I am concerned that is not the problem. I recently had body work done on my Jeep and right after I noticed some weird things. Interior light wont come on when you open the front passenger door, you couldn’t lock doors from the front passenger side and you could drive with this front passenger door wide open, Also my electric start wont work. They took off the door to replace the front fender. It seems more to me that its in the door harness than the BCM but the dealership says no. Before i spend the 1000 dollars I am wondering if anyone has any experience with this.

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[ckgjt]

did they do any welding or stud pulling while doing the body work?..

 

[Cheyenne32]

no welding, what is stud pullin?

 

[Cheyenne32]

As far as I am aware they just took of the flare and fender and replaced the old metal fender. I had a flat and the knucklehead that replaced my tire dropped my Jeep and bent the pinch weld on the bottom of the fender.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have been told I need to replace my BCM in my 2020 Gladiator and I am concerned that is not the problem. I recently had body work done on my Jeep and right after I noticed some weird things. Interior light wont come on when you open the front passenger door, you couldn’t lock doors from the front passenger side and you could drive with this front passenger door wide open, Also my electric start wont work. They took off the door to replace the front fender. It seems more to me that its in the door harness than the BCM but the dealership says no. Before i spend the 1000 dollars I am wondering if anyone has any experience with this.

Sounds like door harness connector at the kick panel............ weird stuff exactly like that happens when doors are taken off and put back on and for some reason a pin or pins don't match up and get bent or pushed out of the shell.
Your symptoms match doors off, doors on connection issues, IMO.
I'd insist they check that because everything you describe is connected to DOORS and little else.

 

[kevman65]

^^^^

Listen to him, he knows schtuff.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

 

[Cheyenne32]

I KEPT INSISTING THIS and they told me they straightened the pins and it was getting power. I feel that it is in the harness myself, I have no check engine lights on, the door will lock from anywhere else in the car, the window goes up and down. They are saying its just coincidental that the BCM is not outputting correctly to that door. Just part of the BCM is not working.. I called BS and pulled it out of the shop. The shit thing is, I believe they did the damage. I havent had my doors off. I can’t lift them to even take them off.
They should be responsible for fixing it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

and it was getting power

There's a lot more to it than just getting power.

Have they even bothered doing any diagnostics to see if the BCM is getting signals?
For example, with software like AlfaOBD or JSCAN, we can check to see if a FOB button is pressed and received at the BCM, we can see the BCM respond to input, etc.
If the BCM was faulty, I'd expect something other than this sort of thing to show up.

Analog Inputs:
Headlamp Switch Position: AUTO
Headlamp Switch Voltage: 3.47 V
Panel Dimmer Switch Position: 6
Fog Lamps State: Off
Panel Dimmer Switch Voltage: 1.65 V
Ambient Cabin Dimmer Switch Position: 4
Ambient Cabin Dimmer Switch Voltage: 2.31 V
Cargo Lamp Switch Position: Off
Analog Inputs:
Washer Fluid Level Voltage: 0.12 V
Washer Fluid Level: Normal
ERS Switch Voltage: 0.00 V
Analog Inputs:
Brake fluid level: Normal
Hood Ajar Switch: Ajar
Brake Fluid Level Voltage: 7.92 V
Hood Ajar Switch Voltage: 5.25 V
Analog Inputs:
Left Front Door Lock Switch Voltage: 11.05 V
Right Front Door lock Switch Voltage: 11.05 V
Left Front Door Lock Switch: Not pressed
Right Front Door Lock Switch: Not pressed
Left Outside Front Door Release Switch: Release
Right Outside Front Door Release Switch: Release
Digital Inputs (Active Low):
Front Wiper Park Switch Sense: Park
Park Brake Switch: Not pressed
Hazard Switch: Not pressed
Inverter Status: Off
Left Front Lamp Diagnostics: Not Short
Right Front Lamp Diagnostics: Not Short
Left Rear Lamp Diagnostics: Not Short
Right Rear Lamp Diagnostics: Not Short
Liftgate or Trunk Ajar Switch: Closed
Horn (Flipper Glass Ajar) Switch: Closed
Driver Inside Handle Switch: Off
Passenger Inside Handle Switch: Off
Digital Inputs (Active High):
ESP Brake Input: Not pressed
Rear Wiper Park Signal: Park
Ignition Run/Start: Ignition In Run/Start
Left Low Beam Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
Right Low Beam Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
Left High Beam Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
Right High Beam Duty Cycle: 0.00 %
CAN-I Bussed Inputs 1:
Turn Indicator Lamp Fault - Driver: No
Driver Unlock Switch Pressed: No
Driver Lock Switch Pressed: No
Tilt in Reverse - Driver Side: No
Child security lock inactive: No
Turn Indicator Lamp Fault - Passenger: No
Passenger Unlock Switch Pressed: No
Passenger Lock Switch Pressed: No
Blind Spot Detection Indicator Fault - Passenger: No
Tilt in Reverse - Passenger Side: No
Suppress Horn Request: No
Panic alarm mute: No
Front Wig Wag Request: No
Rear Wig Wag Request: No
Left Ambient Light Sensor Voltage: 4.24 V
ITM Status: VTA Disarmed
ITM motion detection disabled: No
ITM indicator request: No
Configurable Feature: Default
Sun Shade Request: No
CAN-C Bussed Inputs 1:
Turn indicator lever state: Not Pressed / Idle
High beam lever state: On Pushed
Front Wiper/Washer Switch Pressed: Not Pressed / Idle
Horn switch pressed: No
Steering wheel conditioning fault: No
Rear Wiper/Washer Switch Position: Off / Idle
Rear Wiper/Washer Switch Position: Off / Idle
Brake Pressed- ESP Signal: No
CAN-C Bussed Inputs 2:
PRND Status: Park
Engine RPM: 0 rpm
Ignition Switch Status: RUN Position
RKE Basic Function Request: No
RKE Complex Function Request: No
Vehicle speed: 0.00 km/h
Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) Data 3:
Intelligent Battery Sensor Lifetime Charge Received: 2862.00 A/h
Intelligent Battery Sensor Lifetime Charge Released: 2771.12 A/h
Intelligent Battery Sensor Voltage Before LIN Wakeup: 7.41 V
Intelligent Battery Sensor Wake Up Reason: Not defined
Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) Data 4:
Intelligent Battery Sensor Calculated Battery Resistance: 2.41 Ohm
Intelligent Battery Sensor Resistance at 100 % SOC and 25 Deg.C: 2.93 Ohm
Intelligent Battery Sensor Accumulated Time Since Last Reset: 32 sec
Converter 1 (CONV1) Data:
Converter 1 Mode: Normal
Converter 1 State: Active, Ignition: ON
Error received ASBM: Not set
Converter 2 (CONV2) Data:
Converter 2 Mode: Normal
Converter 2 State: Active, Ign: ON
Error received ASBM: Not set
Inverter Enable Relay: On
UGDO Power Supply: On
VTA Indicator LED: Off
Steering wheel switch module:
Wakeup Reason for SWSM: Active Wakeup
Response Error SWSM: Yes
Steering wheel temperature sensor fault: Normal operation mode
Steering wheel switch 1: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 2: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 3: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 4: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 5: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 6: Signal Not Available
Steering wheel switch 7: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 8: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 9: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 10: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 11: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 12: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 13: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 14: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 15: Not pressed
Steering wheel switch 16: Signal Not Available
Electronic Compass Module (ECM):
Remote Compass Direction: North
Remote Compass Response Error: Yes
Remote Compass Direction Raw: 5732 Deg.
Remote Compass Variance Value: 202
Remote Compass Distortion Detected: Yes
Remote Compass ECU Internal Failure Flag for Micro: Not set
Remote Compass NVM Fault: Not set
Remote Compass Calibration Fault: No
Remote Compass Sensor Failure Flag: No
Remote Compass In Calibration Mode: No
Remote Compass Calibration Needed: No
Horn: Off
Compass Rear View Mirror Module (CRVMM) Data:
CRVMM Compass Direction: Signal Not Available
CRVMM Compass Variance Value: 15
CRVMM Compass Direction Raw: 511 Deg.
CRVMM Distortion Detected: Not set
CRVMM ECU Fault: Not set
CRVMM NVM Fault: Not set
CRVMM Calibration Fault: Not set
CRVMM Sensor Fault: Not set
CRVMM In Calibration Mode: Not set
CRVMM Calibration Required: Not set
Error received CRV: Not set
DeGauss Required: Not set
Switch Bank Module (ASBM) Data:
ASBM TPM SwitchNot pressed
ASBM Park Assist Request: Not pressed
ASBM EB Switch: Not pressed
ASBM Stop/Start Switch: Not pressed
ASBM Traction Control Request: Not pressed
OD Switch Request: Not pressed
Wakeup START ASBM: No
Error received ASBM: Not set
Ignition Run: On
Ignition RUN/ACC 1: On
Ignition RUN/ACC 2: On
Ignition Run/Start: On
All Doors/Central Locks: No Pulse
Unlock 1/Driver Lock: No Pulse
Unlock 2/Passenger Locks: No Pulse
Unlock RUN-START: On
Analog Door Ajar Inputs:
Driver Analog Door Ajar Switch Voltage: 1.67 V
Passenger Analog Door Ajar Switch Voltage: 1.69 V
Left Rear Analog Door Ajar Switch Voltage: 1.67 V
Right Rear Analog Door Ajar Switch Voltage: 1.20 V
Viper Driver Analog Door Ajar Switch Voltage: 1.04 V
Viper Passenger Analog Door Ajar Switch Voltage: 1.20 V
Driver Analog Door Ajar witch State: Faulted low / FL_SSC
Passenger Analog Door Ajar Switch State: Faulted low / FL_SSC
Left Rear Analog Door Ajar Switch State: Faulted low / FL_SSC
Right Rear Analog Door Ajar Switch State: Faulted low / FL_SSC
Secondary Driver Analog Door Ajar Switch State: Faulted low / FL_SSC
Viper Driver Analog Door Ajar Switch State: Faulted low / FL_SSC

 

[Cheyenne32]

I also just noticed when I try to use the electric start the dash says, electric start canceled door open. all the kept saying is that the BCM wasn’t sending information to the door.

 

[AmishMike]

Second @ShadowsPapa sounds like the door harness. It is easy to check yourself just to see if it is connected and latched. Passenger side kick panel where the wiring goes in, pulls off easily-just pull it straight back towards the rear of the vehicle. Then you can check to make sure that it is connected and the latch is down.

 

[IamPro2A]

Do what Mike says, and if you want to take it a step further, disconnect them and look closely inside to see if a pin has been bent or pushed in. You can bend a pin, and still force it together and latch it.
IMNHO, this is one of the worst design flaws on late model Jeeps. It would be fine on a typical truck or car, but it is way too delicate for something meant to be engaged and disengaged potentially hundreds, or even thousands of times over the life of the vehicle.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Do what Mike says, and if you want to take it a step further, disconnect them and look closely inside to see if a pin has been bent or pushed in. You can bend a pin, and still force it together and latch it.
IMNHO, this is one of the worst design flaws on late model Jeeps. It would be fine on a typical truck or car, but it is way too delicate for something meant to be engaged and disengaged potentially hundreds, or even thousands of times over the life of the vehicle.

Ditto this.

My tips for that connector (which is drastically over-engineered yet too fragile for constant use) would be:
Both hands, line the connector up perfectly straight. No tip or tilt to either side. Imagine guiding an airplane into a hanger with 1" wing tip clearance and the airplane body must be totally level or the front end will hit the top of the hanger door opening. No pitch, no roll - perfectly flat face-to-face going together. And don't use the latch yet - push them gently together by hand. You can feel any resistance that way. Only use the latch once you have gone as far as you can by hand, and even then I move the latch a bit and still use hand pressure to push them together.
I won't say I'm an expert, but then I've dealt with some crazy automotive connectors over the years that made me thing "what the #%$! were they thinking? Overkill!"
Either I've been lucky - or the slow, patience method works. I'll let everyone know in 10 years after several more times with these doors.

Anywho - it's not just bent pins - we've seen where the pins weren't totally latched into the shell, not totally locked in place, and they got pushed back out instead of bent. You can see the pin, it's there, but looking at different angles you can see it's not up level with the rest - it's recessed far enough back to not make contact with the female part of the connector on the other part of the harness.

all the kept saying is that the BCM wasn’t sending information to the door.

They need to hire a new tech who knows electric. The BCM doesn't send information to the door - the BCM monitors voltages and switch conditions (open/closed, 0 or 1).
The only thing the BCM sends is the signal to close a relay to operate the door lock motor.
They can monitor a lot of things, such as if the BCM has detected the key FOB unlock signal. Since the FOB signal isn't detected in the door - that will tell them if that part of the system is working.
The short snip I sent from the BCM on my own truck (*my 2020 when I had it) shows how they could easily diagnose what's going on step by step.
With consumer level apps like JSCAN and others you can actually test your lock and unlock functions, see if signals are received, the condition or state of every switch in that truck, door or otherwise.
Maybe make a side bet with them - they replace the BCM and if it still doesn't work, then they leave it in, for FREE, and they fix the door connector for you for free.
On the other hand - since they were doing repairs in that area, if the BCM does have a problem, it's possible that problem was caused by them.
Still - the chances of a BCM being bad and ONLY for those functions? I'd be more likely to win the next powerball jackpot (and I don't even buy tickets)

 

[Higher_Ground]

There is about a 0.5% chance of it randomly failing while they were working on it and about a 99.5% chance they damaged the pins taking the door on/off.

First, if you can, I would have them put in writing that they did in fact disconnect the electrical harness at the passenger door - the one that's not working correctly.

Next, I would take the connection apart and try to see if there are any pins out of alignment AND if there is any damage on the female connector that would show where somebody perhaps tried to force the pin into place. The plastic is soft and will show a gouge or scratch if the pin wasn't aligned just right.

Unfortunately it sounds like they are on the defensive side of things already. Maybe you can get lucky with a higher up manager who would agree to waive the cost to check the BCM (if they keep insisting) if that doesn't fix the problem. And if they won't do that, I would threaten to light them up everywhere you can about 1) dropping the Jeep to begin with, 2) BSing you about parts, and 3) unwilling to fix damage they caused.

In the end, if it's just bent pins there's a good possibility you can fix it on your own. If you can't, people have had the harness replaced (some under warranty, some having to pay for it) and I would bet that it's cheaper than the $1000 they want to charge you for a BCM you don't need.

 

[ecidiego]

BCM is like $250. They're assholes - charging you $750 labor to fix something that probably isn't broken.

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