Built not bought or bought not built???

[Jrgunn5150]

The project I am working on is a 1980 J10 shell. We Have:
- A Frame
- Set of 05 Super duty axles 60 /10.50
- A front clip
- A cab gutted save the dashboard (Steel) slightly modified to be a cab and a half.
- A bed shortened with almost no floor.

Pulled the leaf springs and the Chevy 60s (Old) and starting from there. The goal is to have her on a road test by January 2027 and then make a 2500 mile adventure thru Idaho and Montana in July of 27.

Build includes a 3 gen LS 6.2, 6L80, Atlas T case, SD axles on 4 links with 2.5 King Coil overs. Internal roll cage Tahoe Power seats power windows, AC, wood floor in the bed. The rig will be streetable as well as a monster off road. Rolling stock 40s on Bead locks.

Pretty sure this qualifies as Built not bought. I will see if I can get the rendering for "Skeletor". Initial look will be more a rat rod later to be finished up "mo pretty".

Lead/owner is retired so He has a few extra minutes to pour into this build. For heavy lifting I jump in and help fabricate/design. We have a small but great team of folks tat come together to help each out on their builds. Yup there is still some good in the world.

This, this is the kind of build a typical JL/JT owner isn't doing. Because they're new and expensive and people need to drive them to their jobs to pay for them lol.

All makes sense to me, I'm not trying to judge anyone for it. I'm glad I'll have one in five years to cut up lol.

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[VA6489]

So cool. Thanks for sharing. So far ahead of my project. I’m still figuring it out.

We are just startign out with Skeletor ourselves.

Start with what size tire do you want to run. That will lead to how wide teh axles need to be to get a decent wheel cut (steering). From there sounds like you want to go 4 link. TMR, BArns ARTEC Motobilt all have frame or universal 4 link kits.

Download the 4 link calculator program and start takign measurements and you are off to teh races. The rear 4 link shown took 10 hours to build start to finish. Finish welding still needs to be completed.

 

[VA6489]

This, this is the kind of build a typical JL/JT owner isn't doing. Because they're new and expensive and people need to drive them to their jobs to pay for them lol.

All makes sense to me, I'm not trying to judge anyone for it. I'm glad I'll have one in five years to cut up lol.

Rattle Wagon is my 2021 JTRD. In May I strip the OEM suspension off and install a Artec Long arm system with coilover shocks. Then return to daily duties commuting to the Pentagon from NN VA.

 

[WILDHOBO]

We are just startign out with Skeletor ourselves.

Start with what size tire do you want to run. That will lead to how wide teh axles need to be to get a decent wheel cut (steering). From there sounds like you want to go 4 link. TMR, BArns ARTEC Motobilt all have frame or universal 4 link kits.

Download the 4 link calculator program and start takign measurements and you are off to teh races. The rear 4 link shown took 10 hours to build start to finish. Finish welding still needs to be completed.

You have no idea how helpful this is. Thanks. My frame is a bit older as a 61. I’m working on engine and transmission builds first. The amc 401 is broken down and at the machine shop for machining and I’ll let them install the cam bearings. I need to rebuild the 4 speed I bought for it as well. I’m still on the fence between arms and coilovers, and custom leaf springs. Leafs would be simpler. I’ll probably run either skinny 35’s or 37’s absolute max. It’ll be mild on the trail and wild on the road.

 

[VA6489]

With an old rig like that make sure to box the frame. if you are upgrading the engine. Weight and torque are not you friend with an old flexible frame.

If you go the leaf spring route, check out Deaver springs and look into slipper boxes for more actuation. Swap the front shackle to the rear for better ride.

If you go the Link and coils route it will be more work but the end result will be a fantastic ride and performance on and off the road.

 

[VA6489]

You could run JK or JL/JT axles with a 5 or 5.5 inch backspace wheel and have a great track width and keep all close to the body. Then again a little sheet metal work and those fenders could be stretched enough to mostly cover the width of wide tires and axles.

 

[MaximusTX]

I can do most add-on stuff but haven't really got into fabrication, welding or anything like that. I have wanted to but never wanted to try on my daily. I have a always liked the Samurais and have had a few of them. I picked this one up to start learning on. Plan is to add the trail slayer Kit to it which stretches it to a 100inch wheelbase. We will see how it goes.

Trail Slayer’ Samurai Coil Suspension Kit

End Goal

 

[ChrisNLA]

If I could afford to, I'd send the truck to the shop for anything that requires a wrench or socket bigger than 15MM

Or if it requires more than one wack with a hammer.

It's not that I'm not capable - it's that I'm getting to where I honestly don't care to fool with it. I've done enough engine swaps, trans swaps, a lift kit or two, that I don't have anything else to prove.

Rather be fishing, or wandering around in the woods, or literally anything else.

 

[WILDHOBO]

With an old rig like that make sure to box the frame. if you are upgrading the engine. Weight and torque are not you friend with an old flexible frame.

If you go the leaf spring route, check out Deaver springs and look into slipper boxes for more actuation. Swap the front shackle to the rear for better ride.

If you go the Link and coils route it will be more work but the end result will be a fantastic ride and performance on and off the road.

I’m definitely boxing the frame. It will be my first one. The engine will be in the 500hp range, with at least as much torque, so I’d twist the open frame into a pretzel. I’ve been leaving it assembled (body on) until I have the new engine and tranny built. My thought was to do a test install of them to figure out clearances and mark motor mount locations before removing the body. Then I’ll try to do the frame, axles, and suspension without the body on. But this is all new to me, so learning as I go.

 

[WILDHOBO]

You could run JK or JL/JT axles with a 5 or 5.5 inch backspace wheel and have a great track width and keep all close to the body. Then again a little sheet metal work and those fenders could be stretched enough to mostly cover the width of wide tires and axles.

JT axles are the current plan actually. I want safe brakes and steering. I don’t care if the tires poke a little or a lot. Doesn’t bother me on the gladiator.

 

[WILDHOBO]

If I could afford to, I'd send the truck to the shop for anything that requires a wrench or socket bigger than 15MM

Or if it requires more than one wack with a hammer.

It's not that I'm not capable - it's that I'm getting to where I honestly don't care to fool with it. I've done enough engine swaps, trans swaps, a lift kit or two, that I don't have anything else to prove.

Rather be fishing, or wandering around in the woods, or literally anything else.

You’ve definitely got that experience. This will likely be my first and last project this big. I’m sure I’ll eat those words.

 

[VA6489]

You have no idea how helpful this is. Thanks. My frame is a bit older as a 61. I’m working on engine and transmission builds first. The amc 401 is broken down and at the machine shop for machining and I’ll let them install the cam bearings. I need to rebuild the 4 speed I bought for it as well. I’m still on the fence between arms and coilovers, and custom leaf springs. Leafs would be simpler. I’ll probably run either skinny 35’s or 37’s absolute max. It’ll be mild on the trail and wild on the road.

some ideas/motvation


https://crownconceptsusa.com/crown-customs-builds/1961-willys-jeep-truck-restomod/
https://www.carscoops.com/2020/10/t...he-chassis-and-drivetrain-of-a-2014-wrangler/
https://metalworksclassics.com/portfolio-page/willys-pickup-ls-conversion/

 

[WILDHOBO]

some ideas/motvation


https://crownconceptsusa.com/crown-customs-builds/1961-willys-jeep-truck-restomod/
https://www.carscoops.com/2020/10/t...he-chassis-and-drivetrain-of-a-2014-wrangler/
https://metalworksclassics.com/portfolio-page/willys-pickup-ls-conversion/

This is the second one I’ve seen that crown has done. They do crazy amazing work.

 

[VA6489]

JT axles are the current plan actually. I want safe brakes and steering. I don’t care if the tires poke a little or a lot. Doesn’t bother me on the gladiator.

@WILDHOBO
Going to a long arm Artec on my JTRD, then looking at upgrading the Rear D60 and Built from Adventek 210. I can make a package deal on the axles, suspension and if you want a set of BFG 39 and wheels. Shock too if you like. Will deliver for the cost of fuel from VA to CO.
Heading out in June to build a OBS Bronco for my son. SD Axle swap and coil overs. so any reason to head west is a good reason for me.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I reality it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks. I will say if you're going to wheel it, there's added risk having sometime else install everything. When you break something or something even gets loose off road, you'll have no idea how it went together to try and get yourself home. If you don't wheel then it doesn't matter if it's built or bought in the Starbucks drive through. Personally we buy our Jeeps new and bone stock and then do all of the work on them for several reasons. I know how to troubleshoot and fix it out on the trails. I know that everything is installed correctly. And it saves a fortune vs paying someone else.

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