Burning Oil on Statup

[Hootbro]

FCA has the power to pull their license.

The probability of that is in direct correlation to how many units the dealership buys from them.

Would need video of the dealership employees kicking puppies, smacking a bus load of nuns and sales walking around naked from the waste down before it would move the needle for FCA to take it under advisement to pull their franchise agreement.

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[ShadowsPapa]

While using full synthetic the flash point of synthetic oil, meaning the temp it can burn at is much higher than regular or blended reg/syn oils. So logical reasoning suggests that synthetic oil burns less because of higher temps. But there’s is a point in older high mileage engines where tolerances have worn, where slightly thinner at all temps, but mostly low temps that synthetic oils can leak/pass by to get burned in a combustion cycle. Where the naturally thicker dyno oil might not.

Naturally thicker? Not when comparing a 20W synthetic to conventional. They are all "the same thickness".
There are some conventional oils that have a higher temperature threshold than some synthetics, so that part is a "it depends". You'd have to compare brands.

That is the one downside with using syn oil in older high mileage vehicles.

Hmmm, sounds like maybe some internet wisdom, sorry, but I run synthetic in my 100,000 mile engine without issue. Frankly, I've not seen a difference other than once in a while on an older engine you may see some seals start to seep with synthetic - a lot depends on the base oil there. Non-synthetics tend to have some additives that condition seals, but for some base oils (synthetics), those don't work so well - harder to keep in suspension.

We're talking only dozens of degrees differences, not many hundreds.
Conventional oils range from mid-300s up to mid 400s.
Synthetics start in the mid-400s.
So they can actually be the same, or within 20-40 degrees of each other.
The "best" synthetics get 450-500. So in that case, yeah, 50-100 degrees difference, and that counts in the engine's working parts where the oil is exposed to the most heat and pressure.
For combustion - the chamber temps are above the flash point of any oil. (over 1500 degrees) so if it's in there, it's gonna burn.

 

[JeepCares]

Got off the phone with Jeep Customer Care and are deeply concerned about lack of urgency from the dealer, according to them any "new" vehicle burning oil is considered a safety risk and the fact that I have it on video they should have been taking it more seriously.

They are concerned as I am that its burning oil while driving as well and regardless will cause carbon build up and fouled plugs if not addressed.

They then attempted to call the dealer and none of the advisors would take the call and kept putting them through to Voicemail.

Hi there,

Thank you for bringing this to our attention. If you are still needing extra support alongside the dealership, please send us a private message with your VIN.

Blair
Jeep Cares

 

[webduelist]

Just wanted to update this thread with a resolution if anyone else has this issues.

I was correct that oil was getting into the PCV however I was incorrect in the assumption it had to do with vacuum.

What was actually occurring was the rotating assembly making contact with the oil in the oil pan and kicking it up into the PCV valve.

The root cause of this was do to a technician using old documentation for first generation gladiators and not the mid-cycle refresh. This caused them to overfill the oil on the Gladiator and cause the issue.

It is disappointing that any dealership both missed this during the service and repeated drop-offs even marked the dipstick and still didn't realize that it was overfilled. Dealership was eventually able to diag the issue after Jeep Care basically told them to work on it until they figure it out or they were gonna send a guy from Toledo to figure it out :P

 

[ShadowsPapa]

What was actually occurring was the rotating assembly making contact with the oil in the oil pan and kicking it up into the PCV valve.

The root cause of this was do to a technician using old documentation for first generation gladiators and not the mid-cycle refresh. This caused them to overfill the oil on the Gladiator and cause the issue.

There's some mis-information in there. All JT/Gladiator engines are the same, from the first off the line to the one just leaving the line as I type.

They may have been going by OLD OLD OLD documentation, or something for, say, a Grand Cherokee or another model that uses 6 quarts, but 6 isn't going to cause that sort of a problem.
More than 6, all bets are off, but 6? No.
(The PCV is not in the crankcase............)

Thousands of these ended up with 6 quarts of oil in them - literally thousands, because dealerships were not used to engines taking 5 and not 6 quarts. So many left dealerships after an oil change with 6 quarts in them.
In the first year, yes, they were learning the new lower oil requirements. So many went out the dealership door with 6 quarts. That pretty much settled down after about a year as they got used to it.

Here's another problem with their story - your JT is a 2024, you posted about this in 2025.
Any dealership that has ever changed oil in a Gladiator even made in June 2019 would know about the 5 quart bit.
There was no mid-cycle or any other sort of change for the Gladiator engine.
So my bet is someone grossly over-filled it, more than 6 quarts, and it was because they were clueless and used some specs from something else, but not a Gladiator.
No Gladiator ever left the line taking over 5 quarts. They've never needed 6.
So for them to do this FIVE YEARS later? Really

That's my problem with this -
IT takes over 6 quarts - it has to be REALLY over-filled to cause issues like that
and
No Gladiator has ever required anything other than 5 quarts.
and
They've had 7 years to learn this.

There's no excuse for it if it was indeed "over-filled".

 

[Rusty PW]

There have been a couple of threads where the dealership over filled the oil by one quart on the 3.6's. The older 3.6 takes 6 qts. The 3.6 in the JL and JT take 5 qts.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

There have been a couple of threads where the dealership over filled the oil by one quart on the 3.6's. The older 3.6 takes 6 qts. The 3.6 in the JL and JT take 5 qts.

Which makes me wonder about the dealership's "story".
The engines in the JL and JT have never taken more than 5 quarts. So from 2018 they've taken 5 quarts (5.5 if totally dry from a rebuild, etc.)
For someone to screw up TODAY, in 2024 or 2025, it's just crazy.
And 1 quart won't cause blue smoke to blow.
I'd bet it was over by a lot more than 1 quart.
Dealerships in 2019 and 2020 were putting 6 quarts in these by the thousands - before they learned.
Imagine the numbers of JLs that had 6 quarts for the whole duration between oil changes and no problems.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

My second 3.6 was overfilled to 12 L. It’s still running better than ever. …bullet proof.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

My second 3.6 was overfilled to 12 L. It’s still running better than ever. …bullet proof.

I've discovered that any forum member named Kevin will have really weird things happen to their engines and/or transmissions.
At first I thought it was just a Canada thing, but then a Kevin from CA (uh, the other CA, California) talked of his engine problems and I made the connection - it's the name (or the abbreviation CA?)

 

[Rusty PW]

I've discovered that any forum member named Kevin will have really weird things happen to their engines and/or transmissions.
At first I thought it was just a Canada thing, but then a Kevin from CA (uh, the other CA, California) talked of his engine problems and I made the connection - it's the name (or the abbreviation CA?)

Is that anything like Karen?

 

[Stan H]

Okay so the PUG takes 5 quarts .. once started how many quarts is in the pan . I read a full quart is up top in the cooler and filter . So 4 quarts total in circulation . How much is left in the pan to be picked up ? I have always felt this is one of the reasons why it takes 0w-20 so it can run quickly back down to the pan before the sump runs dry
That joke aside .. I dont think once on a steep pull there is much left to pick up .

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Okay so the PUG takes 5 quarts .

No, the upgrade in the JL and JT takes 5
The WK2 3.6 still took 6 quarts - yes, the upgrade engine.

once started how many quarts is in the pan . I read a full quart is up top in the cooler and filter . So 4 quarts total in circulation . How much is left in the pan to be picked up ? I have always felt this is one of the reasons why it takes 0w-20 so it can run quickly back down to the pan before the sump runs dry
That joke aside .. I dont think once on a steep pull there is much left to pick up

That will vary with engine speed, oil temperatures, engine component temperatures.
I don't know how quickly oil drains from the heads back to the pan after it's been circulated and dropped from the cam bearings, followers and so on, onto the head surface to return to the pan.

And yes, heavier oil does return more slowly and tends to run a bit warmer for multiple reasons (regardless of what your oil temperature gauge shows - don't make me laugh)

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Is that anything like Karen?

I don't know - just don't leave him home alone...............

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I've discovered that any forum member named Kevin will have really weird things happen to their engines and/or transmissions.
At first I thought it was just a Canada thing, but then a Kevin from CA (uh, the other CA, California) talked of his engine problems and I made the connection - it's the name (or the abbreviation CA?)

Haha, I’m going to take mine to a million kms. I’m just over a 1/10th of the way there right now!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Haha, I’m going to take mine to a million kms. I’m just over a 1/10th of the way there right now!

I'd love to see that thing do that - beat the one I heard did 600,000 miles.

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