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Cam, rockers, and lash adjusters at 39k miles.

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So the dreaded tick got me and due to my poor hearing it must have been going on for a while. At the same time I noticed mine, my mom's jeep also developed one.
This thread is going over the repair and, more importantly, how I am going to keep it from happening again.
My parents' experience trying to get warrunty work done was a nightmare at best. "The oil is sludgy," "The oil looks really black," "It needs a new head too!" Were things the service managers through around to get around the warrunty work and to insinuate proper maintenance wasn't being done. They have lost a family of customers. I didn't even bother taking mine in, not worth the blood pressure increase. My dad and I did all the work on both trucks ourselves.

Now, every high lift lobe on my bank 1 intake cam was worn down to basically nothing and the surfaces of the rockers had deep divots worn into them. (Like I said I have bad hearing, a buddy told me about the tick after I got a check engine light) Bank 2 was perfect. (Mom's jeep had one bad lobe, one just starting, bank 1) The DTC was for bank 1 intake cam slow. The reason for the code was the metal shavings had built up on the magnetic stripes the position sensor reads.
Through research into maintenance bulletins I found that it is recommended to also replace the lash adjusters. New cam, rockers, and lash adjusters were around $600. Repair went fairly smoothly I pulled out all 4 cams and cleaned the sensor wheels, checked all the low lift bearing and exhaust rockers. I put a magnet on the oil pan and ran new oil for 15 minutes of idling then another 10 with an oil flush solvent. I pulled the oil pan, cleaned out all the shavings, and reinstalled. New oil added, magnet left on.

Engine runs great, I got lucky considering the amount of metal shavings that had gone through the oil system.

Now to make sure I never have to do this again, or at least not for another 100k+ miles.
I did more research on oil and oiling systems than I ever thought I would have to. In my head, it had to be an oil/oiling problem. The extent of the damage far exceeded dry starts and it seems the 99 out of 100 pentastars with this issue have it on the bank 1 intake.
1st thing I'm changing. More oil changes. I was doing 5k miles, now I'm going to 3k. I don't want to risk the oil chemistry or viscosity breaking down to squeak out an extra 2k miles. I also do a lot of towing so it makes sense.
Second, I'm making the oil pump WORK once per day of driving, crank up the rpms on an onramp to get that high oil pressure not seen under 3k rpm. This is to blow out anything building up in the tiny orifices in the rockers. The lobe lubrication can't come only from what leaks out of the cam bearings, if that were enough there wouldn't be an issue. There also needs to be oil being sprayed out of the exhaust rockers onto the lobes.
Third, better oil. I was running what jeep tells you to. 0w20 full synthetic API certified oil. This is a mistake. The API certification tells you many things, but most important to my issue and application, it tells you how much zinc compound is in the oil. Long story short, not nearly enough. ZDDP/ZDTP are compounds that maintain an oil film on surfaces. They were necessary in older engines with flat tappets to maintain proper lubrication. API sets a maximum to zinc which should be fine for modern engines, but the engineers at jeep decided to put in old technology that needs more lubrication. Now ZDDP/ZDTP has issues, it is corrosive in very high ammounts, and it will toast your catalyst after a long time. The oil I now use is a racing oil so it can sidestep the zinc limit mobil 1 has 800ppm, the racing oil is 1700ppm. I also went to 5w30. I know, I know, the horror. My engine sounds way better, runs way better, and my oil temps are down 20°F. Yes, 20° I would regularly see temps in the 200s and sometimes as high as 215°F. Now they barely break 185°F.

So there you have it. I will report back as other things happen and different mileage milestones, but I am hoping this won't be an issue in the future.

If anyone has two cents on other ways I can prevent issues other than the Baxter filter adapter or the aftermarket electric fan thing, I would love to hear it.

Happy Jeeping everyone!

Jeep Gladiator Cam, rockers, and lash adjusters at 39k miles. 20240210_112315
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First to ask; which racing oil did you settle on & what oil were you using previously?
 

willys 41

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So the dreaded tick got me and due to my poor hearing it must have been going on for a while. At the same time I noticed mine, my mom's jeep also developed one.
This thread is going over the repair and, more importantly, how I am going to keep it from happening again.
My parents' experience trying to get warrunty work done was a nightmare at best. "The oil is sludgy," "The oil looks really black," "It needs a new head too!" Were things the service managers through around to get around the warrunty work and to insinuate proper maintenance wasn't being done. They have lost a family of customers. I didn't even bother taking mine in, not worth the blood pressure increase. My dad and I did all the work on both trucks ourselves.

Now, every high lift lobe on my bank 1 intake cam was worn down to basically nothing and the surfaces of the rockers had deep divots worn into them. (Like I said I have bad hearing, a buddy told me about the tick after I got a check engine light) Bank 2 was perfect. (Mom's jeep had one bad lobe, one just starting, bank 1) The DTC was for bank 1 intake cam slow. The reason for the code was the metal shavings had built up on the magnetic stripes the position sensor reads.
Through research into maintenance bulletins I found that it is recommended to also replace the lash adjusters. New cam, rockers, and lash adjusters were around $600. Repair went fairly smoothly I pulled out all 4 cams and cleaned the sensor wheels, checked all the low lift bearing and exhaust rockers. I put a magnet on the oil pan and ran new oil for 15 minutes of idling then another 10 with an oil flush solvent. I pulled the oil pan, cleaned out all the shavings, and reinstalled. New oil added, magnet left on.

Engine runs great, I got lucky considering the amount of metal shavings that had gone through the oil system.

Now to make sure I never have to do this again, or at least not for another 100k+ miles.
I did more research on oil and oiling systems than I ever thought I would have to. In my head, it had to be an oil/oiling problem. The extent of the damage far exceeded dry starts and it seems the 99 out of 100 pentastars with this issue have it on the bank 1 intake.
1st thing I'm changing. More oil changes. I was doing 5k miles, now I'm going to 3k. I don't want to risk the oil chemistry or viscosity breaking down to squeak out an extra 2k miles. I also do a lot of towing so it makes sense.
Second, I'm making the oil pump WORK once per day of driving, crank up the rpms on an onramp to get that high oil pressure not seen under 3k rpm. This is to blow out anything building up in the tiny orifices in the rockers. The lobe lubrication can't come only from what leaks out of the cam bearings, if that were enough there wouldn't be an issue. There also needs to be oil being sprayed out of the exhaust rockers onto the lobes.
Third, better oil. I was running what jeep tells you to. 0w20 full synthetic API certified oil. This is a mistake. The API certification tells you many things, but most important to my issue and application, it tells you how much zinc compound is in the oil. Long story short, not nearly enough. ZDDP/ZDTP are compounds that maintain an oil film on surfaces. They were necessary in older engines with flat tappets to maintain proper lubrication. API sets a maximum to zinc which should be fine for modern engines, but the engineers at jeep decided to put in old technology that needs more lubrication. Now ZDDP/ZDTP has issues, it is corrosive in very high ammounts, and it will toast your catalyst after a long time. The oil I now use is a racing oil so it can sidestep the zinc limit mobil 1 has 800ppm, the racing oil is 1700ppm. I also went to 5w30. I know, I know, the horror. My engine sounds way better, runs way better, and my oil temps are down 20°F. Yes, 20° I would regularly see temps in the 200s and sometimes as high as 215°F. Now they barely break 185°F.

So there you have it. I will report back as other things happen and different mileage milestones, but I am hoping this won't be an issue in the future.

If anyone has two cents on other ways I can prevent issues other than the Baxter filter adapter or the aftermarket electric fan thing, I would love to hear it.

Happy Jeeping everyone!

20240210_112315.jpg
I am now running 5w40 oil. The same oil that the Maserati 3.0 v6 witch is the same motor as the 3.6 just less displacement. I know you are not interest in the RPM Extreme fan controller put I installed it 6 months ago and am extremely happy with my lower coolant and oil temps.
Heat is a killer and I can only hope that I will avoid the cam problem. I no longer see 235 degrees coolant temps when pulling a long steep hills. 212 degrees is the highest I has seen on the same long steep hill and drops down to 190 in less then a minute.
 

willys 41

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So the dreaded tick got me and due to my poor hearing it must have been going on for a while. At the same time I noticed mine, my mom's jeep also developed one.
This thread is going over the repair and, more importantly, how I am going to keep it from happening again.
My parents' experience trying to get warrunty work done was a nightmare at best. "The oil is sludgy," "The oil looks really black," "It needs a new head too!" Were things the service managers through around to get around the warrunty work and to insinuate proper maintenance wasn't being done. They have lost a family of customers. I didn't even bother taking mine in, not worth the blood pressure increase. My dad and I did all the work on both trucks ourselves.

Now, every high lift lobe on my bank 1 intake cam was worn down to basically nothing and the surfaces of the rockers had deep divots worn into them. (Like I said I have bad hearing, a buddy told me about the tick after I got a check engine light) Bank 2 was perfect. (Mom's jeep had one bad lobe, one just starting, bank 1) The DTC was for bank 1 intake cam slow. The reason for the code was the metal shavings had built up on the magnetic stripes the position sensor reads.
Through research into maintenance bulletins I found that it is recommended to also replace the lash adjusters. New cam, rockers, and lash adjusters were around $600. Repair went fairly smoothly I pulled out all 4 cams and cleaned the sensor wheels, checked all the low lift bearing and exhaust rockers. I put a magnet on the oil pan and ran new oil for 15 minutes of idling then another 10 with an oil flush solvent. I pulled the oil pan, cleaned out all the shavings, and reinstalled. New oil added, magnet left on.

Engine runs great, I got lucky considering the amount of metal shavings that had gone through the oil system.

Now to make sure I never have to do this again, or at least not for another 100k+ miles.
I did more research on oil and oiling systems than I ever thought I would have to. In my head, it had to be an oil/oiling problem. The extent of the damage far exceeded dry starts and it seems the 99 out of 100 pentastars with this issue have it on the bank 1 intake.
1st thing I'm changing. More oil changes. I was doing 5k miles, now I'm going to 3k. I don't want to risk the oil chemistry or viscosity breaking down to squeak out an extra 2k miles. I also do a lot of towing so it makes sense.
Second, I'm making the oil pump WORK once per day of driving, crank up the rpms on an onramp to get that high oil pressure not seen under 3k rpm. This is to blow out anything building up in the tiny orifices in the rockers. The lobe lubrication can't come only from what leaks out of the cam bearings, if that were enough there wouldn't be an issue. There also needs to be oil being sprayed out of the exhaust rockers onto the lobes.
Third, better oil. I was running what jeep tells you to. 0w20 full synthetic API certified oil. This is a mistake. The API certification tells you many things, but most important to my issue and application, it tells you how much zinc compound is in the oil. Long story short, not nearly enough. ZDDP/ZDTP are compounds that maintain an oil film on surfaces. They were necessary in older engines with flat tappets to maintain proper lubrication. API sets a maximum to zinc which should be fine for modern engines, but the engineers at jeep decided to put in old technology that needs more lubrication. Now ZDDP/ZDTP has issues, it is corrosive in very high ammounts, and it will toast your catalyst after a long time. The oil I now use is a racing oil so it can sidestep the zinc limit mobil 1 has 800ppm, the racing oil is 1700ppm. I also went to 5w30. I know, I know, the horror. My engine sounds way better, runs way better, and my oil temps are down 20°F. Yes, 20° I would regularly see temps in the 200s and sometimes as high as 215°F. Now they barely break 185°F.

So there you have it. I will report back as other things happen and different mileage milestones, but I am hoping this won't be an issue in the future.

If anyone has two cents on other ways I can prevent issues other than the Baxter filter adapter or the aftermarket electric fan thing, I would love to hear it.

Happy Jeeping everyone!

20240210_112315.jpg
Here is the oil I am using. In Europe they run 5w40 in a lot of motors that in the US we are told to use 0w20. I have read that it is purely for the US MPG mandate.

Jeep Gladiator Cam, rockers, and lash adjusters at 39k miles. 5w40
 
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NoDucksGiven

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I am now running 5w40 oil. The same oil that the Maserati 3.0 v6 witch is the same motor as the 3.6 just less displacement. I know you are not interest in the RPM Extreme fan controller put I installed it 6 months ago and am extremely happy with my lower coolant and oil temps.
Heat is a killer and I can only hope that I will avoid the cam problem. I no longer see 235 degrees coolant temps when pulling a long steep hills. 212 degrees is the highest I has seen on the same long steep hill and drops down to 190 in less then a minute.
Those are temps I would see pulling my camper, just changing oil seems like it has done a lot for me. If I have future problems with temp I will look into the fan controller but I don't think it is going to be an issue going forward.
 

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NoDucksGiven

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First to ask; which racing oil did you settle on & what oil were you using previously?
I was using Mobil 1 0w20 I think it was the "suv" oil
I'm now using royal purple xpr 5w30
I may switch to the HPS to save a few dollars an oil change but it's not much difference.
 

Alpine Warthog

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I am now running 5w40 oil. The same oil that the Maserati 3.0 v6 witch is the same motor as the 3.6 just less displacement.
With the reliability issues that Ferrari has, that makes me nervous....

Here is the oil I am using. In Europe they run 5w40 in a lot of motors that in the US we are told to use 0w20. I have read that it is purely for the US MPG mandate.

5w40.jpg
How is 5w40 different/better? Don't take this as a flame, genuinely curious. I just got a tick in my 16 cherokee and I REALLY don't want to get one in my JT...
 

TCheek

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Those are temps I would see pulling my camper, just changing oil seems like it has done a lot for me. If I have future problems with temp I will look into the fan controller but I don't think it is going to be an issue going forward.
Do you use the European 5/40 also? I am seeing engine temps that worry me in my gladiator and I am seriously looking for changes that can drop temps below 200 degrees.
 

willys 41

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With the reliability issues that Ferrari has, that makes me nervous....


How is 5w40 different/better? Don't take this as a flame, genuinely curious. I just got a tick in my 16 cherokee and I REALLY don't want to get one in my JT...
The higher oil viscosity when hot I believe will only help prevent the small needle bearings on the cam followers from failing. ( we know these 3.6s can get real hot under load )
I have been running 5w30 sense I got my Willys new and now after seeing that most European run 5w40 I decided to go with 5w40 and have seen no difference in oil pressure.
It may be my imagination put it seen to run quieter.

Jeep Gladiator Cam, rockers, and lash adjusters at 39k miles. oil
 

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The higher oil viscosity when hot I believe will only help prevent the small needle bearings on the cam followers from failing. ( we know these 3.6s can get real hot under load )
I have been running 5w30 sense I got my Willys new and now after seeing that most European run 5w40 I decided to go with 5w40 and have seen no difference in oil pressure.
It may be my imagination put it seen to run quieter.

oil.jpg
Does running a different oil than recommended going to give my dealer an excuse to void warranty? I've been taking it to them for oil changes just to give myself ammunition if anything ever does break....
 

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willys 41

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Do you use the European 5/40 also? I am seeing engine temps that worry me in my gladiator and I am seriously looking for changes that can drop temps below 200 degrees.
Going with 5w40 I think can help at higher temps put if you want lower coolant and oil temps you can do what did.
The RPM Extreme JL fan controller.
Been running it for 10 months now and it is a game changer. NO MORE 235 COOLANT TEMPS OR HIGH OIL TEMPS.
My coolant and oil temp average 188 to 195 and under moderate loaded 200 degrees.
Just got back from two weeks at Sand Hollow and Moab.
Blasting over the sand dunes it hit 205 and the highest temp I have seen is 212 climbing the 4000ft mountain pass at 65 mph.

http://www.rpmextreme.com/Product/311/Jeep-JL-PWM-FAN-CONTROLLER.aspx
 

willys 41

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Does running a different oil than recommended going to give my dealer an excuse to void warranty? I've been taking it to them for oil changes just to give myself ammunition if anything ever does break....
It may.
I got lazy and stupid when I first got my 2020 Willys and had the dealer do the free oil change.
After the second oil change when I got it home there was oil dripping from my newly in stalled skid plate with the big opening for draining the oil. They took NO effort to make sure the oil drained though the opening.
I had had to remover the skid plate and clean it.
That was the last time my jeep ever saw a dealer.
If you change your own oil go to Walmart and buy 0w20 and filter on one invoice and 5w40 another invoice. return the 0w20 put keep the invoice for warranty.
 

TCheek

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Going with 5w40 I think can help at higher temps put if you want lower coolant and oil temps you can do what did.
The RPM Extreme JL fan controller.
Been running it for 10 months now and it is a game changer. NO MORE 235 COOLANT TEMPS OR HIGH OIL TEMPS.
My coolant and oil temp average 188 to 195 and under moderate loaded 200 degrees.
Just got back from two weeks at Sand Hollow and Moab.
Blasting over the sand dunes it hit 205 and the highest temp I have seen is 212 climbing the 4000ft mountain pass at 65 mph.

http://www.rpmextreme.com/Product/311/Jeep-JL-PWM-FAN-CONTROLLER.aspx
I just bought a mini tazer and I plan on modifying the cooling through it. I think I will try the European 5/40 next oil change and see if it makes any difference in the summer heat. I will be using my gladiator for towing. It is equipped with the standard tow package.
 

willys 41

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I just bought a mini tazer and I plan on modifying the cooling through it. I think I will try the European 5/40 next oil change and see if it makes any difference in the summer heat. I will be using my gladiator for towing. It is equipped with the standard tow package.
The Tazer as far as I know will only do a cool down when stopped. I may be wrong.
If you are going to be towing keep a close eye on your temps.
You will see temps as high as 231 to 235 and I be leave over 240 it will go into limp mode.
 

TCheek

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The Tazer as far as I know will only do a cool down when stopped. I may be wrong.
If you are going to be towing keep a close eye on your temps.
You will see temps as high as 231 to 235 and I be leave over 240 it will go into limp mode.
I will find out this weekend about the tazer. I'm aware of the high temps with towing and I wish there were a remedy for it. I have never owned a vehicle that runs this hot.
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