Class action lawsuit against fca

[DAVECS1]

@ShadowPapa What was the fix for this? I have the exact same issue. I just replaced the cam and all lifters/rockers, but Im afraid its only temporary. Currently, this thread is the only thread that I have found that replicates my issue! Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am currently stationed overseas (UK) with my Gladiator and am pretty much working on this issue myself and its driving me nuts. PLEASE HELP

To have a fix we need to have the root cause. That picture is from my rebuild. I help one or two people a week since I posted that picture. People from around the world. Probably more stock engines than supercharged at this point. They all seem to happen around 20k to 30k.

My best guesses at the moment.

1. The VVL solenoids have no feedback diagnostics. So electrically it may be working, but there is nothing to confirm the oil got shut off when it was supposed to, like a pressure sensor. Having oil pressure at the rocker will cause the rocker to not latch in to high lift mode and the ramp will just beat against the cam

2. Slow phaser or bad cam position. The cams have to be in a position called lockpin when switching to highlift. If they are not in this position the rocker cannot immediately lock into highlift and it rattles around for a couple thousand rpm before locking in, beating up the cam.

3. This is the one I am taking action on right or wrong, and it is just my opinion. The high lift section of the cam and rocker are not roller cam components. It is a metal on metal friction ramp. The quality and viscosity of oil at this type of contact point is crucial. The same goes for the quality of metal and its heat treat. I don't think the cam has a good enuff case hardening. When running 0w-20 it only takes a number of missed highlift lock ins to beat through the heat treat/case hardening. Once there is a Crack in the armor so to speak your on borrowed time. I have stepped up to trying well known robust 5w-30 oils and I may step that viscosity up as I review my run data. I have not gone heavier as I am concerned about the cM phaser operation. My opinion is a good oil will help protect that high lift cam friction interface.

I have about 6000 miles on mine since the repair, and knock on wood it is still doing great. The oil has been changed twice and is looking good and the engine is really quite.

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[shanesibley]

To have a fix we need to have the root cause. That picture is from my rebuild. I help one or two people a week since I posted that picture. People from around the world. Probably more stock engines than supercharged at this point. They all seem to happen around 20k to 30k.

My best guesses at the moment.

1. The VVL solenoids have no feedback diagnostics. So electrically it may be working, but there is nothing to confirm the oil got shut off when it was supposed to, like a pressure sensor. Having oil pressure at the rocker will cause the rocker to not latch in to high lift mode and the ramp will just beat against the cam

2. Slow phaser or bad cam position. The cams have to be in a position called lockpin when switching to highlift. If they are nothing this position the rocker cannot immediately lock into highlift and it rattles around for a couple thousand rpm before locking in, beating up the cam.

3. This is the one I am taking action on right or wrong, and it is just my opinion. The high lift section of the cam and rocker are not roller cam components. It is a metal on metal friction ramp. The quality and viscosity of oil at this type of contact point is crucial. The same goes for the quality of metal and its heat treat. I don't think the cam has a good enuff case hardening. When running 0w-20 it only takes a number of missed highlift lock ins to beat through the heat treat/case hardening. Once there is a Crack in the armor so to speak your on borrowed time. I have stepped up to trying well known robust 5w-30 oils and I may step that viscosity up as I review my run data. I have not gone heavier as I am concerned about the cM phaser operation. My opinion is a good oil will help protect that high lift cam friction interface.

I have about 6000 miles on mine since the repair, and knock on wood it is still doing great. The oil has been changed twice and is looking good and the engine is really quite.

Im thinking of stepping up the oil as well. Im about to do another short oil cylce to flush out particles, but I have been looking at going up in weight due to exactly what you are talking about. So, maybe I will go straight to 5w30 and see how she likes it. Im willing to try anything as I want this damn thing to truly be my everyday fun haver. Currently, the trust isnt there, but if I can get it to last until the end of our tour here in England, then it will probably get a Hemi swap upon return to the States. Thanks for all your help Dave

 

[Tommyd]

I’m not sure if the noise I’m hearing is the same tick. It’s almost a diesel-like sound, just off idle RPM under load. I notice it moving my travel trailer around parking lots.

Mine does that too. 2020 sport. Exact same thing. Under load at real low rpms. Has that old ford diesel sound.

 

[Tommyd]

I've noticed a diesel-like sound on my '22 Mojave. For me it is as I go up a hill that leads away from my home. I'm going around 30mph and the incline is about 4% (+100 ft over about 500 yards). Not awful, but noticeable each time. Just wish I was getting the mileage of a diesel to go along with the diesel-like engine knock of my gasser.

And tourqe lol

 

[kscoke]

I had the tick at 3000 miles on my Mojave. Cam/lifters and rockers replaced March 2022. Now at 4300 the tick has come back!

 

[shanesibley]

To have a fix we need to have the root cause. That picture is from my rebuild. I help one or two people a week since I posted that picture. People from around the world. Probably more stock engines than supercharged at this point. They all seem to happen around 20k to 30k.

My best guesses at the moment.

1. The VVL solenoids have no feedback diagnostics. So electrically it may be working, but there is nothing to confirm the oil got shut off when it was supposed to, like a pressure sensor. Having oil pressure at the rocker will cause the rocker to not latch in to high lift mode and the ramp will just beat against the cam

2. Slow phaser or bad cam position. The cams have to be in a position called lockpin when switching to highlift. If they are not in this position the rocker cannot immediately lock into highlift and it rattles around for a couple thousand rpm before locking in, beating up the cam.

3. This is the one I am taking action on right or wrong, and it is just my opinion. The high lift section of the cam and rocker are not roller cam components. It is a metal on metal friction ramp. The quality and viscosity of oil at this type of contact point is crucial. The same goes for the quality of metal and its heat treat. I don't think the cam has a good enuff case hardening. When running 0w-20 it only takes a number of missed highlift lock ins to beat through the heat treat/case hardening. Once there is a Crack in the armor so to speak your on borrowed time. I have stepped up to trying well known robust 5w-30 oils and I may step that viscosity up as I review my run data. I have not gone heavier as I am concerned about the cM phaser operation. My opinion is a good oil will help protect that high lift cam friction interface.

I have about 6000 miles on mine since the repair, and knock on wood it is still doing great. The oil has been changed twice and is looking good and the engine is really quite.

The Oil made a huge difference! I am now waiting to get my new VVL Solenoid and CPS in the mail. Hopefully, this is the final piece of the puzzle.

 

[DAVECS1]

In my opinion, if they are intent on running 0-20 oil, the high lift cam needs to be roller, or needs to have oil squirter. High heat, high centripetal force, and low viscosity just make for a bad combination when combating wear. With a higher viscosity my hope is some of it stays on the lobe when the VVL kicks on.

 

[saintpauljeff]

I've got the cold start engine tick, it sticks around until the engine heats up and the running temp is reached, really strange. I haven't read through this entire thread, but I'm getting an oil change on 5/20 so I will report this issue and ask of any TSB.

Other than the noise at startup, the engine seems to work just fine.

 

[cmb396]

In my opinion, if they are intent on running 0-20 oil, the high lift cam needs to be roller, or needs to have oil squirter. High heat, high centripetal force, and low viscosity just make for a bad combination when combating wear. With a higher viscosity my hope is some of it stays on the lobe when the VVL kicks on.

What oil 5-30 oil do you recommend Dave?

 

[shanesibley]

What oil 5-30 oil do you recommend Dave?

I am trying the 5w30 Royal Purple w/zinc. So far, no complaints and engine sounds more amazing than ever. I have only been running on it for a few days, but i plan on running this out to around 5k miles. Hopefully, I will remember to come back with follow up.

 

[DAVECS1]

I have been using the Pennzoil ultra platinum. There is some buzz around Quakerstate Ultimate Durability, so I may give that a try. I am not real hip on the recycled stuff.

 

[cmb396]

I used to run Amsoil in my corvettes, but lost my contact, so just used Mobil 1 in them recently.
Thinking about ordering Amsoil 5w30
$16.50 a qt, but Ill only put maybe 5k miles on my JTR a year, so that's not too hateful.

 

[DAVECS1]

Many people will not agree with me but I have always felt Amsoil is a safe bet. They take their work seriously, and they do engineering. Not as much corporate misdirection. With that said, who knows if they are resource of info limited.

 

[Advntrbound]

I developed the tick after 60k miles and now my warranty isn't in effect. Is Jeep doing anything about the tick after the warranty expires?

 

[tbaker]

I used to run Amsoil in my corvettes, but lost my contact, so just used Mobil 1 in them recently.
Thinking about ordering Amsoil 5w30
$16.50 a qt, but Ill only put maybe 5k miles on my JTR a year, so that's not too hateful.

Go to the amsoil webpage and you can sign up for 20 dollars a year or 10 dollars for 6 months and get the oil as cheap as your contact did and it will be delivered to your doorstep when I order I get enough for 2 oil changes

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