Clayton 2.5” bumpstops

[MSFTMatt]

I’m have the Clayton Overland 2.5” that I’ll be installing in the next few weeks. I purchased different adjustable bump stops from Metalcloak as well as upper DuroSpring bump stops. I got the 2” adjustable for the front and rear but now wondering if I should have gotten the 1”-4” instead. Looking for insight on this. Anyone with similar set up hitting components because of bump stops having too much gap?

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[aFatBird]

I'm on a clayton 3.5 with 2" metalcloak bumpstops front and rear with the duro spring bumps as well. So far no issues with uptravel with my 37s. Will note that I am a diesel so my front jounce do sit lower down than the gas equivalent.

 

[MSFTMatt]

I'm on a clayton 3.5 with 2" metalcloak bumpstops front and rear with the duro spring bumps as well. So far no issues with uptravel with my 37s. Will note that I am a diesel so my front jounce do sit lower down than the gas equivalent.

Awesome, thanks bro. Appreciate the help

 

[bleda2002]

The duro spring bumps are basically a 1 inch bump stop extension themselves so with the 2 + 1 you are at 3 which should be fine. If you need more it will be upfront most likely and you can just drill a hole in a hockey puck and stack it on top of the MC ones.

 

[MSFTMatt]

The duro spring bumps are basically a 1 inch bump stop extension themselves so with the 2 + 1 you are at 3 which should be fine. If you need more it will be upfront most likely and you can just drill a hole in a hockey puck and stack it on top of the MC ones.

That’s ingenious!

 

[fourfa]

It's less about the springs and more about your shock lengths, tire size, and other suspension components. With my rear 19.4"-compressed Falcons, I need 2.5" of bump stop to protect the shock, and keep the aftermarket rear swaybar arms out of the fender sheet metal. (The 19.4s are labeled as shocks for "3.5-4.5" of lift FYI). With 2.5" bumpstops I get only the slightest rub from 37s on stock rear inner plastic fender liners, and only when completely stuffed hard on the stops with two wheels fully dangling. A few zip ties would retract the liners to where they wouldn't rub at all. NBD.

Front, I only need 1/2" bump for 17.9"-compressed Falcons but mine is also the diesel with longer stock jounce tubes, so YMMV.

(this happens to be with Clayton 3.5 springs, HD rear and diesel front, but again that's not really important here)

Can't comment further without knowing your tire size and shock selection. Either way you should plan to completely flex it out in the driveway with no springs installed, check clearances and axle centering, and adjust bumpstops as needed. Every truck is slightly different, adjustable arms can land you in different positions, different types of control arm joint limit out at different points, shit happens.

 

[MSFTMatt]

It's less about the springs and more about your shock lengths, tire size, and other suspension components. With my rear 19.4"-compressed Falcons, I need 2.5" of bump stop to protect the shock, and keep the aftermarket rear swaybar arms out of the fender sheet metal. (The 19.4s are labeled as shocks for "3.5-4.5" of lift FYI). With 2.5" bumpstops I get only the slightest rub from 37s on stock rear inner plastic fender liners, and only when completely stuffed hard on the stops with two wheels fully dangling. A few zip ties would retract the liners to where they wouldn't rub at all. NBD.

Front, I only need 1/2" bump for 17.9"-compressed Falcons but mine is also the diesel with longer stock jounce tubes, so YMMV.

(this happens to be with Clayton 3.5 springs, HD rear and diesel front, but again that's not really important here)

Can't comment further without knowing your tire size and shock selection. Either way you should plan to completely flex it out in the driveway with no springs installed, check clearances and axle centering, and adjust bumpstops as needed. Every truck is slightly different, adjustable arms can land you in different positions, shit happens.

So my rig is the 3.6. I’ve got the Falcon sp3 to install with lift. The rears are the HD springs as I will be adding a topper, fridge, drawers, etc.

 

[MSFTMatt]

It's less about the springs and more about your shock lengths, tire size, and other suspension components. With my rear 19.4"-compressed Falcons, I need 2.5" of bump stop to protect the shock, and keep the aftermarket rear swaybar arms out of the fender sheet metal. (The 19.4s are labeled as shocks for "3.5-4.5" of lift FYI). With 2.5" bumpstops I get only the slightest rub from 37s on stock rear inner plastic fender liners, and only when completely stuffed hard on the stops with two wheels fully dangling. A few zip ties would retract the liners to where they wouldn't rub at all. NBD.

Front, I only need 1/2" bump for 17.9"-compressed Falcons but mine is also the diesel with longer stock jounce tubes, so YMMV.

(this happens to be with Clayton 3.5 springs, HD rear and diesel front, but again that's not really important here)

Can't comment further without knowing your tire size and shock selection. Either way you should plan to completely flex it out in the driveway with no springs installed, check clearances and axle centering, and adjust bumpstops as needed. Every truck is slightly different, adjustable arms can land you in different positions, different types of control arm joint limit out at different points, shit happens.

So this might be a dumb noob question but what’s the best way to flex it out in my driveway? I see guys using forklifts but that’s not an option?

 

[fourfa]

Jack stands under frame, remove springs (or do this before installing the new springs in the first place), jack under axle. You want the opposite side at full droop which might require a pretty tall frame jackstand, and/or removing the opposite wheel. But you want to have the wheel on the side you’re checking to look for rubs and full stuff and full lock

It turns into a zoo of stands and jacks but not much choice

 

[MSFTMatt]

Awesome, thanks man, that makes sense.

 

[Jtfire35]

I'm on a clayton 3.5 with 2" metalcloak bumpstops front and rear with the duro spring bumps as well. So far no issues with uptravel with my 37s. Will note that I am a diesel so my front jounce do sit lower down than the gas equivalent.

Hey bird this is the same exact set up I’m going to be installing this coming week. Would you change bump stops length at all? Also I’ll be running Rocksport reds on this lift.

 

[aFatBird]

Hey bird this is the same exact set up I’m going to be installing this coming week. Would you change bump stops length at all? Also I’ll be running Rocksport reds on this lift.

I'm running 2 pucks front and rear atm. Haven't properly tested flex or anything but I didn't have a harsh bump when I ran down the mojave.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the lengths as they are pretty easy to change the rears and only mildly annoying in the front as you just need change the bolt for it and add/remove pucks.

 

[Jtfire35]

Awesome, thank you I’ll start out with the same and do the front and rear duro stops also. I have the Diesel also so a great place to start. Did you change out your front drive shaft with these coils?

 

[aFatBird]

Awesome, thank you I’ll start out with the same and do the front and rear duro stops also. I have the Diesel also so a great place to start. Did you change out your front drive shaft with these coils?

I changed mines out a bit after I did the lift when I got my stock driveshaft to sling all the grease out of it. It's not a bad time to throw in a new driveshaft while you do the lift.

 

[Jtfire35]

I changed mines out a bit after I did the lift when I got my stock driveshaft to sling all the grease out of it. It's not a bad time to throw in a new driveshaft while you do the lift.

Heck yeah. Ok based on your advice I went ahead and ordered the new front drive shaft and rear drive shaft spacer. Thank you.

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