Clayton Off Road JT Suspension Systems

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Adjustable uppers allow for easier and quicker adjustment to your caster angle

This comment seems counterintuitive because lower control arms are more accessible and using them to correct the caster also restores some wheelbase.

What am I missing?

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[bleda2002]

This comment seems counterintuitive because lower control arms are more accessible and using them to correct the caster also restores some wheelbase.

What am I missing?

Uppers are easier to install honestly, way lower torque specs, and once lifted plenty of space under. After doing both I'd much rather do uppers than lowers.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

This comment seems counterintuitive because lower control arms are more accessible and using them to correct the caster also restores some wheelbase.

What am I missing?

We're not so much referring to the accessibility of the control arms, rather the actual effect the adjustment of each set of arms has on your caster angle. Using the front upper arms not only requires less adjustment to properly set your caster, but it will also allow you to solely focus on adjusting your caster angle, rather than having to adjust between caster and wheelbase simultaneously like using the front lowers would. Front lower arms are much more efficient for adjusting wheelbase, so this way you are able to utilize one single set of arms for one single purpose each.

The Ride Right kit, which is the kit we sell that offers a set of front upper adjustable control arms instead of a full set, is intended for somebody who mainly is looking to use the vehicle as a daily driver. In this scenario, proper caster angle is the most important adjustment to get right as it directly affects steering and handling, whereas if somebody was looking to get a little bit more into light off-roading, utilizing a set of front lowers might be more beneficial as this is where proper wheelbase becomes more important. Overall, for somebody looking for both on and off-road use, we always recommend a complete lift kit that comes with a full set of control arms like our Overland or Premium kits, but for a daily driver or entry-level lift kit system, we feel that front upper control arms offer much more performance to our customers than lowers do.

Hopefully this helps!

 

[Ted Striker]

Slowly been upgrading my Clayton 2.5" Ride Right. Just added the adjustable front lower control arms recently and alignment shop said with both upper and lower front arms being adjustable they were able to dial it in way easier and better.

 

[Nomad1]

Slowly been upgrading my Clayton 2.5" Ride Right. Just added the adjustable front lower control arms recently and alignment shop said with both upper and lower front arms being adjustable they were able to dial it in way easier and better.

Startting to wonder if I should just buy the front lowers before I even put the 2.5" Ride Right on. Make it easier and just do it all at once. I have a Sarge green arriving any day now, yours looks badass.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Slowly been upgrading my Clayton 2.5" Ride Right. Just added the adjustable front lower control arms recently and alignment shop said with both upper and lower front arms being adjustable they were able to dial it in way easier and better.

Love that last photo!

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

We're not so much referring to the accessibility of the control arms, rather the actual effect the adjustment of each set of arms has on your caster angle. Using the front upper arms not only requires less adjustment to properly set your caster, but it will also allow you to solely focus on adjusting your caster angle, rather than having to adjust between caster and wheelbase simultaneously like using the front lowers would. Front lower arms are much more efficient for adjusting wheelbase, so this way you are able to utilize one single set of arms for one single purpose each.

The Ride Right kit, which is the kit we sell that offers a set of front upper adjustable control arms instead of a full set, is intended for somebody who mainly is looking to use the vehicle as a daily driver. In this scenario, proper caster angle is the most important adjustment to get right as it directly affects steering and handling, whereas if somebody was looking to get a little bit more into light off-roading, utilizing a set of front lowers might be more beneficial as this is where proper wheelbase becomes more important. Overall, for somebody looking for both on and off-road use, we always recommend a complete lift kit that comes with a full set of control arms like our Overland or Premium kits, but for a daily driver or entry-level lift kit system, we feel that front upper control arms offer much more performance to our customers than lowers do.

Hopefully this helps!

Thank you for taking the time to reply to this question. I do have another one which I can't seem to get a specific response to if you don't mind answering:

I live in a flat sandy region (Central Florida) where most of my offroading is sand trails which are mostly washboard that reak havoc on stiff suspensions/ diesel Rubis. I would've bought a Mojave except I wanted a diesel. My diesel Rubicon (as does many others') suffers terribly from the suspension bottoming out on minor road variations at fairly low speeds, to the degree that the "Trail Rated"® badge is probably criminally fraudulent. (Jk, but not really.)

My question is:
In order to get a more "Mojave-like" ride, would it be better to get a bit longer gas springs (say 4" instead of 3", along with a likewise tuned shock,) in order to give the JTRD a Mojave-like ride quality on washboard roads? Or... Should I be looking for a single/ progressive/ dual/ triple rate spring for the diesel?

 

[Clayton Off Road]

Thank you for taking the time to reply to this question. I do have another one which I can't seem to get a specific response to if you don't mind answering:

I live in a flat sandy region (Central Florida) where most of my offroading is sand trails which are mostly washboard that reak havoc on stiff suspensions/ diesel Rubis. I would've bought a Mojave except I wanted a diesel. My diesel Rubicon (as does many others') suffers terribly from the suspension bottoming out on minor road variations at fairly low speeds, to the degree that the "Trail Rated"® badge is probably criminally fraudulent. (Jk, but not really.)

My question is:
In order to get a more "Mojave-like" ride, would it be better to get a bit longer gas springs (say 4" instead of 3", along with a likewise tuned shock,) in order to give the JTRD a Mojave-like ride quality on washboard roads? Or... Should I be looking for a single/ progressive/ dual/ triple rate spring for the diesel?

It seems like the main thing you are trying to remedy would be the bottoming out issue you are experiencing with your truck, and are trying to find a spring and shock combination that will work, correct? Let me know if I misunderstand of course. First thing I would take into consideration is that we already use a higher spring rate than most other manufacturers when it comes to designing our coil springs. This is not only to help with things like weight management for heavy accessories and ride quality but also helps greatly when it comes to any issues involving bottoming out, especially for diesel JT's or any heavier builds suffering from this problem. We will be coming out with a diesel-specific JT coil sometime in 2022, but even our normal gas springs have served many diesel customers well, including ourselves, and the higher spring rate really helps to alleviate bottoming out issues as well improve ride quality. Really the only reason we are coming out with a new coil is to remove a little bit more rake to get the stance on the diesel the same way we have it on the gas kits. I think utilizing our coils will greatly help to solve the issues you are currently having with your stock setup.

For shocks, the Fox shocks pair well with all our systems. The Fox 2.0 performance series shocks are actually what we used when designing and testing our systems, and we hear nothing but great feedback on how well these pair with our kits! Even some of the higher-end shocks from Fox would be a great option and would still pair awesome with our systems. The Falcon shocks also are great, though are valved a little bit stiffer so are more for somebody looking for a little bit more performance on or off-road, or likes to drive a little more aggressively all around.

Let me know if you have any other questions, or feel free to reach out by phone or PM if you'd like!

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

It seems like the main thing you are trying to remedy would be the bottoming out issue you are experiencing with your truck, and are trying to find a spring and shock combination that will work, correct? Let me know if I misunderstand of course.

There are several things I want to accomplish with a lift:
Bottoming out the front suspension on the diesel.
Aesthetics.
The first 2 are easy enough to accomplish but I am also, primarily looking for a Mojave-like ride to smooth out the washboard roads.

Really the only reason we are coming out with a new coil is to remove a little bit more rake to get the stance on the diesel the same way we have it on the gas kits.

I know the industry trend is to level but I'm an old pickup guy and the factory rake is perfect for me. That and I work out of my truck which typically has around 300-500 lbs cargo.

Let me know if you have any other questions, or feel free to reach out by phone or PM if you'd like!

Given the above criteria, what is your recommendation? Thanks.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

There are several things I want to accomplish with a lift:
Bottoming out the front suspension on the diesel.
Aesthetics.
The first 2 are easy enough to accomplish but I am also, primarily looking for a Mojave-like ride to smooth out the washboard roads.



I know the industry trend is to level but I'm an old pickup guy and the factory rake is perfect for me. That and I work out of my truck which typically has around 300-500 lbs cargo.


Given the above criteria, what is your recommendation? Thanks.

If you're looking for a Mojave-like ride in terms of performance, I would definitely look into pairing the kit with a set of Falcon adjustable 3.3 shocks or Fox Adjustable shocks! As for the kit, if the factory rake is perfect for you then that's exactly how our gas kits will leave your diesel JT sitting after install!

 

[Longarmtj]

Installed 3.5" ride right with fox shocks. Did anybody have any pinion angle issues?

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

If you're looking for a Mojave-like ride in terms of performance, I would definitely look into pairing the kit with a set of Falcon adjustable 3.3 shocks or Fox Adjustable shocks! As for the kit, if the factory rake is perfect for you then that's exactly how our gas kits will leave your diesel JT sitting after install!

And the ride with the gas springs compared to diesel?

 

[NewGladdyOWNR]

I know this is an unpopular opinion, but anyone rocking this lift with 33’s?? About to pull the trigger on the 2.5” ride right overland +, but didn’t really want to go up to 35’s..

 

[Marinertom]

I know this is an unpopular opinion, but anyone rocking this lift with 33’s?? About to pull the trigger on the 2.5” ride right overland +, but didn’t really want to go up to 35’s..

Have stock rubicon wheels and wild peak 33s still on after installing 2.5” ride right. No issues. Have diesel rubicon.

 

[NewGladdyOWNR]

Have stock rubicon wheels and wild peak 33s still on after installing 2.5” ride right. No issues. Have diesel rubicon.

Got any pics??

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