Nespeezy

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With the 3.5 kit, can 37s fit with the stock non-Rubi fenders and factory wheel offset? What would the difference between this half Overland kit and the PLUS version be and is there any way to get that upgrade in a half kit?

Been waffling between your kit and MC but if I can do half now and half later that's easier to work through the home finance department.
This is the 3.5 inch overland kit with all 8 arms. 37 13.5 18. Fits in standard garage with 3 inches to spare. If I can make a recommendation stay with 2.5 inch kit. A lot easier on the pocket and it will do everything you need it to. Especially if u live in area without good shops.

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LostWoods

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This is the 3.5 inch overland kit with all 8 arms. 37 13.5 18. Fits in standard garage with 3 inches to spare. If I can make a recommendation stay with 2.5 inch kit. A lot easier on the pocket and it will do everything you need it to. Especially if u live in area without good shops.
Appreciate the feedback. I'm not worried about shops as I wrenched for a living for about a decade but really, I just want to be able to tuck a 37" tire at some point. Clearance hasn't been an issue thus far because I'm not really crawling a $35k daily driver but a few extra inches to eat up some of the breakover would be nice. I've definitely done some damage to the factory "skids"
 

Bbannongmu

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Happy to hear! It will be worth it ;) The Right Ride+ kit is fully upgradeable if you're looking for a good place to start, and we are currently offering Affirm for payments if you're interested!
Tempting.... I’m really a buy once , cry once kinda guy and like to have the cash in my hand or account before buying things.
 
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Clayton Off Road

Clayton Off Road

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Tempting.... I’m really a buy once , cry once kinda guy and like to have the cash in my hand or account before buying things.
Completely understand that!
 
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Clayton Off Road

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This is the 3.5 inch overland kit with all 8 arms. 37 13.5 18. Fits in standard garage with 3 inches to spare. If I can make a recommendation stay with 2.5 inch kit. A lot easier on the pocket and it will do everything you need it to. Especially if u live in area without good shops.

2CEA6F8D-2DD0-459D-A4A9-C0FA069CF3F5.jpeg


44CCF764-2A44-4261-9CA0-E27784106AD5.jpeg


5B82B30C-BDAA-4DF6-90BA-F7AF796A6DAE.jpeg


9C58CE1F-AB0D-40F4-95BA-0CA48E5913DB.jpeg
Truck looks PERFECT :rock:
 

Nespeezy

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Truck looks PERFECT :rock:
Thanks. It turns heads here. Still working through trying to dial alignment in perfectly. Just had 1350 driveshafts put in. Clayton Off-road lift and locally built driveshafts. Want to keep my money American made as much as I can on this build!!!!
 
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Thanks. It turns heads here. Still working through trying to dial alignment in perfectly. Just had 1350 driveshafts put in. Clayton Off-road lift and locally built driveshafts. Want to keep my money American made as much as I can on this build!!!!
That's the way to do it! We appreciate the support of course!
 

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That's the way to do it! We appreciate the support of course!
It seems like most other suspension manufacturers lengthen the lower control arms through adjustment but your kit adjusts the upper control arms. The website description says this is a more effective way of aligning caster. Can you elaborate on how caster is changed utilizing the upper control arms vs LCAs?

Secondly, is there any concern about brake line tension?
 

Nespeezy

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It seems like most other suspension manufacturers lengthen the lower control arms through adjustment but your kit adjusts the upper control arms. The website description says this is a more effective way of aligning caster. Can you elaborate on how caster is changed utilizing the upper control arms vs LCAs?

Secondly, is there any concern about brake line tension?
So I have been thinking about this as I am going through this thread. So I recently had new 1350 driveshafts put in and needed to fix my pinion angle in the rear. Now I had the Clayton overland 3.5 inch kit in and used the lengths provided for the control arms then tried to set the pinion angle and now I have a nasty bow in rear springs. I fix one problem and creat another and this is why I advise most to stay with 2.5 inch kit as I continue to travel down rabbit holes trying to get this right. Now there is a 3.5 inch kit that only provides upper control arms. It appears to be my kit with out lower control arms. So my question is should I set my control arms to the stock length as the axle seems to far back after attempting to set a pinion angle. Kind of pissed as I bought driveshafts as pinion was bad with this lift and now they come out with the ride right basically saying you don’t need lower rears. I always thought the lower control arms seemed a bit to long. Rock Crawler and Metal Cloak all have a similar kit out. Feel like I bought more than I needed. So should I return the lowers to stock length? I still think the springs will be slanted or a bit bowed.
 
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It seems like most other suspension manufacturers lengthen the lower control arms through adjustment but your kit adjusts the upper control arms. The website description says this is a more effective way of aligning caster. Can you elaborate on how caster is changed utilizing the upper control arms vs LCAs?

Secondly, is there any concern about brake line tension?
No problem! Basically, each pair of adjustable control arms all have their own unique purpose. Front uppers adjust caster, front lowers adjust wheelbase, rear uppers adjust pinion angle, and rear lowers adjust your rear wheel base. Now, it is true that while the front lowers main purpose is to adjust for wheelbase, they do also slightly alter your caster angle as well. However this is not as significant of a change as making the same adjustment to the front uppers, due to the fact that the distance from the center of the axle to the center of the upper control arms is actually greater than the distance between the center of the axle to the center of the lower control arms. I know that sounds a little bit confusing, but basically all that it means is that you can make a greater impact on your caster angle by making small adjustments to your front upper control arm length, rather than needing to make larger adjustments to your front lower control arms, which in turn would also affect your wheelbase and you would be left trying to find a balance between adjusting the two simultaneously. So like you said there are some companies who opt to use the front lowers rather than uppers in entry level style kits, and that's just for that reason, that you can adjust both caster and wheelbase at the same time. But like I mentioned earlier on, this tends to make things slightly more difficult by requiring you to find a balance between adjusting your caster and adjusting your wheelbase. So, rather than taking the two birds with one stone approach, we've always chosen to focus primarily on caster correction in our entry level style kits because this is what directly translates to your steering and handling, and because these kits were designed with somebody mainly looking to use their vehicle as a daily driver in mind, not somebody looking to take the Jeep off road which is where wheelbase angles play a more important role. For us, if you tell us you're looking to have the best daily driver and off-road capable vehicle possible, we'd rather see you go with a complete system like our Overland Plus or Premium options, as utilizing each pair of adjustable control arms for their unique purposes plays an important role in off-road driving and suspension geometry.

Sorry that was so long, but hopefully it helps to clarify exactly why these kits are structured the way they are :)

New brake lines are included in the 3.5" kits, and are not necessary in the 2.5" variants!
 

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No problem! Basically, each pair of adjustable control arms all have their own unique purpose. Front uppers adjust caster, front lowers adjust wheelbase, rear uppers adjust pinion angle, and rear lowers adjust your rear wheel base. Now, it is true that while the front lowers main purpose is to adjust for wheelbase, they do also slightly alter your caster angle as well. However this is not as significant of a change as making the same adjustment to the front uppers, due to the fact that the distance from the center of the axle to the center of the upper control arms is actually greater than the distance between the center of the axle to the center of the lower control arms. I know that sounds a little bit confusing, but basically all that it means is that you can make a greater impact on your caster angle by making small adjustments to your front upper control arm length, rather than needing to make larger adjustments to your front lower control arms, which in turn would also affect your wheelbase and you would be left trying to find a balance between adjusting the two simultaneously. So like you said there are some companies who opt to use the front lowers rather than uppers in entry level style kits, and that's just for that reason, that you can adjust both caster and wheelbase at the same time. But like I mentioned earlier on, this tends to make things slightly more difficult by requiring you to find a balance between adjusting your caster and adjusting your wheelbase. So, rather than taking the two birds with one stone approach, we've always chosen to focus primarily on caster correction in our entry level style kits because this is what directly translates to your steering and handling, and because these kits were designed with somebody mainly looking to use their vehicle as a daily driver in mind, not somebody looking to take the Jeep off road which is where wheelbase angles play a more important role. For us, if you tell us you're looking to have the best daily driver and off-road capable vehicle possible, we'd rather see you go with a complete system like our Overland Plus or Premium options, as utilizing each pair of adjustable control arms for their unique purposes plays an important role in off-road driving and suspension geometry.

Sorry that was so long, but hopefully it helps to clarify exactly why these kits are structured the way they are :)

New brake lines are included in the 3.5" kits, and are not necessary in the 2.5" variants!
I appreciate the long version, that helps me (and hopefully others) understand the rational.

This kit is in the running for me along with the MOPAR 2" and Rusty's 2" Basic kit. All kits are similar but different. MOPAR doesnt include track bars and the yours and Rustys dont include shocks (going Fox 2.0 either way). You went UCA's and the other two LCA's. Dual rate springs vs triple rate springs.... Can make it difficult to determine the best route to go not knowing why there is so much variance in similar kits.

My Sport S is a daily driver weekend warrior. On road manners are required but it will be used for the fun Jeep stuff too (did Imogene, Black bear, Ophir pass this summer) not going beyond 35" tires.

Now I'm being long winded but maybe someone else has these concerns/thoughts as well. Glad to see how responsive you (Clayton as a vendor) are in the forum. It is very helpful.
 
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So I have been thinking about this as I am going through this thread. So I recently had new 1350 driveshafts put in and needed to fix my pinion angle in the rear. Now I had the Clayton overland 3.5 inch kit in and used the lengths provided for the control arms then tried to set the pinion angle and now I have a nasty bow in rear springs. I fix one problem and creat another and this is why I advise most to stay with 2.5 inch kit as I continue to travel down rabbit holes trying to get this right. Now there is a 3.5 inch kit that only provides upper control arms. It appears to be my kit with out lower control arms. So my question is should I set my control arms to the stock length as the axle seems to far back after attempting to set a pinion angle. Kind of pissed as I bought driveshafts as pinion was bad with this lift and now they come out with the ride right basically saying you don’t need lower rears. I always thought the lower control arms seemed a bit to long. Rock Crawler and Metal Cloak all have a similar kit out. Feel like I bought more than I needed. So should I return the lowers to stock length? I still think the springs will be slanted or a bit bowed.
Hey Anthony, let me see if I can try to help out with some of your concerns.

While I'm not sure exactly how much bow you are experiencing in your springs when you say a nasty bow, generally speaking spring bow is more of a visual irritant more than it is an actual issue with your suspension or drivability. In fact, when pinion angle is set correctly using any sort of kit that increases your vehicles height, your springs will be bowing slightly as you are rotating the coil mount backwards along with the rear axle. Theoretically, and not something that we would recommend doing, if you really didn't like the visual aspect of the spring bowing all you would have to do is cut off the coil mount and re-weld it on once the pinion angle is set properly, that way its seated directly under the spring even after the axle is rotated back. Again though, this isn't something we would recommend doing, and the slight bow in your spring will not cause any sort of issues for you driving wise.

In regards to the different kits, if you're looking for the greatest on road and off road performance possible, our complete lift kit options like our Overland+ and Premium systems are still the way to go. RideRight+ was designed for somebody looking to get into a Clayton Off Road kit at a lower price point, and that wants to be able to fit a larger set of wheels and tires underneath their vehicle while still being able to maintain ride quality with proper suspension geometry. These kits include what we feel are the most critical components to keep your vehicle driving properly on road, but if you are looking for even more on road performance, and the ability to take the vehicle off road and tackle any obstacle, then that's where our complete systems come into play. So this kit isn't us saying you don't need rear lower control arms, or any of the missing control arms for that matter, as each pair of adjustable control arms each play an important role in correcting your suspensions geometry. This kit is simply just a more basic version of one of our complete systems for somebody just looking to lift their Jeep properly and keep it on road.

As for the lower control arms seeming too long, they actually can be adjusted down to the same exact length as your factory control arms, so they are no longer than stock lower control arms set at their minimum length. Visually maybe they look a bit bigger and longer, but measurement wise they are exactly the same length with the added ability to be able to adjust and increase in length.

If you truly feel as if you are having a hard time setting proper lengths and angles, please feel free to give us a call, or even reach out to me via a private message as we are always more than willing to help out until you feel your vehicle is riding exactly how you want it to be. Our suspension systems are meant to be the best riding and highest quality kits on the market, and we would hate for one of our customers to feel as if they have any less. We know suspension geometry can be a bit tricky, so please don't hesitate to reach out to us for some additional help!
 

Bumpy Ride

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I understand the philosophy behind the RideRight+... primarily for ON ROAD driving... but for occasional "light trail driving", still good to go? I don't intend to rock crawl or drive intense off road trails.
 

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I understand the philosophy behind the RideRight+... primarily for ON ROAD driving... but for occasional "light trail driving", still good to go? I don't intend to rock crawl or drive intense off road trails.
100% it would be good for that. The extra height will help with breakover and reduce dragging your belly; you don't need a full-flexy suspension for light trail driving.
 
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Clayton Off Road

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100% it would be good for that. The extra height will help with breakover and reduce dragging your belly; you don't need a full-flexy suspension for light trail driving.
Exactly correct! Your Jeep stock is fully capable of light trail driving, it's when you get into rock crawling and some more hardcore stuff that you want fully adjustable arms all around!
 

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