Clicking Doors - Modify Door Check?

[jac04]

Well, my driver's side door just started clicking when opening & closing. Not surprising, and this topic has been covered many times.

I have disconnected the door check to eliminate the noise. I noticed that the door check has a serious amount of resistance to it - no doubt that this is the reason why it eventually causes the doors to click.

I like the idea of having door checks, but I certainly don't need them to be as strong as they are. I think if they had less resistance then they may not cause the clicking, while still holding the doors in place in most cases.

So, has anyone removed & modified the door checks to make them have less resistance?

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[Fcmalie]

Mine only click if I don't tighten the bolt all the way when putting the doors back on.

 

[JustinLentz]

When mine started to happen, I thought I had gotten sand in the closure from the beach. All 4 of mine do it so I don't even worry about it.

 

[IanNubbit]

Just remove the bolts holding it to the body. clean the body and the bracket and reattach. If the the still click either one or both of the nuts securing the door check to the door are loose, or internally the check is failing. You can't really make it less restive. You'd have to tear an assembly apart that's riveted together and change the spring rate of the spring compressing a ball onto the door check arms sockets. Not worth it. Kinda live with it or ditch them.

 

[Lunentucker]

Sounds like a skim of white grease on the mating surfaces of the check and the frame might help.

 

[jac04]

Just remove the bolts holding it to the body. clean the body and the bracket and reattach. If the the still click either one or both of the nuts securing the door check to the door are loose, or internally the check is failing. You can't really make it less restive. You'd have to tear an assembly apart that's riveted together and change the spring rate of the spring compressing a ball onto the door check arms sockets. Not worth it. Kinda live with it or ditch them.

It seems to be established that it is a problem with the door structure that is causing the clicking, not an issue with the door check. I have checked the nuts holding the check to the door and I have cleaned & re-installed the bracket to the body. No change at all in the noise.

It sounds like you have had a door check out and looked at it, and that is good info to have. I have no issues taking the door check apart and re-working it. Just wondering if anyone has done it before.

 

[IanNubbit]

It seems to be established that it is a problem with the door structure that is causing the clicking, not an issue with the door check. I have checked the nuts holding the check to the door and I have cleaned & re-installed the bracket to the body. No change at all in the noise.

It sounds like you have had a door check out and looked at it, and that is good info to have. I have no issues taking the door check apart and re-working it. Just wondering if anyone has done it before.

I do about 5 door checks on promasters a week lol (Amazon hates their vans lol). The door check design is identical. You can see the wavy parts on the check here. Looks like the JL/JT uses 2 detents, one on each side with 2 different stop positions. Its also fully plastic, so kinda impossible to dissamble without plastic welding skills and a lot of luck and probably a couple failure. not that I'm recommending it, but the easy routs would be to grind down the wavy indents a little at of time, in turn lowering resistance from the ball spring, and making the angle from in a stop to out of a stop shallower could end you the same effect. Near impossible with out a crazy amount of patience to make them match side to side and each door. I am just now seeing that it seems to be pretty common (kinda) and people are blaming bad welds. No documents have been made by techs or Chrysler concerning it though, so that means its super low volume of people. I would still believe its just the check so you might be on to something by lowering the resitence.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If the nuts holding the check to the door were a problem, you'd not be able to tighten the bolts.
Once the bolts are through the check bracket, through the door skin and into the nuts, the nuts could wobble all they want - once tightened, you have them clamped in place and they can't move any more.
Once tightened, they can no longer move.
Bolts into the nuts = clamping force.
The individual parts can no longer move - unless the bolts are not truly tight.

Has anyone held the check while someone moves the door to try to feel when the "click" occurs? If it's the check, then there has to be movement causing a click, or even a squeak, and you'd feel it.

It doesn't matter how loose that nut is behind the sheet metal and support inside the door frame - once the bolt is tight - it can't move......
In fact, strikers, like used for the tail gate, go into a captive nut inside the body that is free to move - a lot - until the striker is threaded in place and tightened. Then the nut is held by the clamping force of the tightened striker.

 

[jac04]

I do about 5 door checks on promasters a week lol (Amazon hates their vans lol). The door check design is identical. You can see the wavy parts on the check here. Looks like the JL/JT uses 2 detents, one on each side with 2 different stop positions. Its also fully plastic, so kinda impossible to dissamble without plastic welding skills and a lot of luck and probably a couple failure. not that I'm recommending it, but the easy routs would be to grind down the wavy indents a little at of time, in turn lowering resistance from the ball spring, and making the angle from in a stop to out of a stop shallower could end you the same effect. Near impossible with out a crazy amount of patience to make them match side to side and each door. I am just now seeing that it seems to be pretty common (kinda) and people are blaming bad welds. No documents have been made by techs or Chrysler concerning it though, so that means its super low volume of people. I would still believe its just the check so you might be on to something by lowering the resitence.

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Lots of people on this forum and the JL forum report the clicking noise. I have read that people have ultimately had the doors replaced under warranty and gone through the whole fiasco of paint matching and all that crap. But, the noise comes back.

Anyhow, I just realized that the door check is only about $10. I might just buy one to mess around with it. 68297663AC for the driver's door.

 

[IanNubbit]

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Lots of people on this forum and the JL forum report the clicking noise. I have read that people have ultimately had the doors replaced under warranty and gone through the whole fiasco of paint matching and all that crap. But, the noise comes back.

Anyhow, I just realized that the door check is only about $10. I might just buy one to mess around with it. 68297663AC for the driver's door.

Looks like driver and passenger are the same part. 68297668AC for the rears.

 

[Trauma PA]

My doors click. It’s getting the best of my OCD. I’m gonna trade my Willys in on a Mojave because I hear although they ride like garbage, their doors don’t click like other models.

 

[schanro]

My doors click. It’s getting the best of my OCD. I’m gonna trade my Willys in on a Mojave because I hear although they ride like garbage, their doors don’t click like other models.

My Mojave's front doors have the annoying click, so not all Mojaves are immune...

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Then he'd better trade for an Overland. No clicks, squeaks, rattles, clunks.
Just the ghost in the electronics when backing into the driveway.
Interesting the click is only happening when the doors are moving, not when the doors are off or closed........... so it's a 1 time thing when a door is opened - or closed? That's it?

 

[Jerhemi]

Willys here... doors click ?

More interested in what the heck this new noise is.

 

[jac04]

Interesting the click is only happening when the doors are moving, not when the doors are off or closed........... so it's a 1 time thing when a door is opened - or closed? That's it?

Pretty much. I'll hear a few clicks, maybe 2 or 3 clicks when opening the door, then the same again when closing the door. No noise at all when the door is closed and driving around. Also, no noise at all when opening/closing the door once I disconnected the door check.

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