Clutch Recall... Wait... no recall????

[Munkey Boy]

My vehicle was manufactured in Sep 2020. The first clutch recall was supposedly checked before they delivered the vehicle.

I drive down the highway with my left foot resting on the floor nowhere near the clutch. I am definitely not riding the clutch pedal.

My other quirk is most of the time I drive bare footed. I would definitely know if my foot was touching the pedal.

Then definitely have it checked out by the dealer. Remember that there were only a couple instances out of 43,000 that detonated. Odds are in your favor that there will never be a problem, but the law of averages still exists. Yours may have an issue that relates to the system but does not fully represent the entirety of the recall picture as FCA/Stelantis and the NHTSA see it. I'd get confirmation that not only the recall was performed completely, but also a dump test reassuring that there is no further damage. Maybe venture to a different dealership to get a second set of eyes on your beauty. If you're smelling the clutch under normal driving conditions, that ain't no good. "Smoke costs money." - Jim Rowntree.

Keep on bare footin' it! I envy you. I've done way too much construction to even consider the thought of going outside without a thick sole. Plus, AZ tends to bite exposed feet.

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[DanW]

Bottom line. 43k miles of hard driving and lots of off roading including 2 trips to Moab with non-stop crawling. Lots of towing of my fishing boat. No clutch issues. If it was a bad design, it would have shown up in my Jeep. The flaw is not in the design, but rather in the production process. The only thing I'd call a design flaw is the vulnerability of the original hydraulic lines to the clutch/bell housing fracture. But who would have planned for that? Supposedly that's now fixed, too, as of recall #1.

Until I see a burned out Jeep or one with a busted bell housing that has had recall #1, then I'll believe recall 2 is nothing but an insurance measure.

I'm still waiting to see someone post here with the issue whose Jeep has had recall #1. So it's a big reach to call it a design flaw with no evidence to show for it. So post it up if you've got it. Otherwise it is pure speculation.

 

[mbelanger]

They do seem to have hill assist which basically holds the brake for a few seconds when you are sitting on a hill. I edged too far forward on a hill one day, I decided to roll back a couple feet, but when I lifted my foot it didn't roll. I had to put it in neutral and let the clutch out to get it to roll backward.

I don't see a button for it like I had in some of my other vehicles.

New kid on the block, to the extent that 50+ is a kid...and new to Jeep as well. However, I have had multiple vehicles through the years with a manual, having actually learned on a '68 Volvo without synchro but WITH the electric overdrive. The three current manual vehicles are a 2nd year Miata, an early aughts Jaguar X-Type (yes, the four-door sedan) and a '16 F-Type.

The F-Type has a clutch delay valve that does what is being described here. I know on THAT vehicle, there was a manner to go in and deactivate it, although I have not done so. I admittedly put that in the category of things to worry about AFTER the warranty was done...but as I recall from some of the threads in the F-Type forum, it was a fairly simple process. Would imagine it to be even simpler when you can access the vehicle from underneath without a hoist LOL!

 

[mbelanger]

To get back to the topic...I am looking at a manual Gladiator and have found a few that literally just got dropped off of the truck within the past week. Are the new builds being given a beefier clutch or are they just being reprogrammed?

It is a touchy subject with me given what I (and others) went through with the Jaguar F-Type when it was finally brought to market in a manual for MY16. Unfortunately, the early ones got a clutch that was designed for the Volvo and about 250HP. They were NOT capable of handling the stock 385HP and Jaguar was replacing clutches under warranty (mine was slipping inside of a thousand miles and I don't track it). At present, they are on a second generation flywheel and a fourth generation clutch plate. Sadly, I am having issues with a Gen 4 clutch that was mated to the original Gen 1 flywheel after it was resurfaced.

I REALLY don't want to go back through this experience with a different vehicle...I want it to be RIGHT from the time I take delivery.

 

[SteveInOrlando]

To get back to the topic...I am looking at a manual Gladiator and have found a few that literally just got dropped off of the truck within the past week. Are the new builds being given a beefier clutch or are they just being reprogrammed?

It is a touchy subject with me given what I (and others) went through with the Jaguar F-Type when it was finally brought to market in a manual for MY16. Unfortunately, the early ones got a clutch that was designed for the Volvo and about 250HP. They were NOT capable of handling the stock 385HP and Jaguar was replacing clutches under warranty (mine was slipping inside of a thousand miles and I don't track it). At present, they are on a second generation flywheel and a fourth generation clutch plate. Sadly, I am having issues with a Gen 4 clutch that was mated to the original Gen 1 flywheel after it was resurfaced.

I REALLY don't want to go back through this experience with a different vehicle...I want it to be RIGHT from the time I take delivery.

Just Reprogrammed.

 

[mbelanger]

Disappointing to hear...

 

[syreeves]

Disappointing to hear...

I think you'll be fine. I have a manual with 5K miles. I does everything i want. Issues with towing relate to the engine power output.

 

[DanW]

I just returned from a week in Moab where my Jeep turned 45k miles and was abused all day, every day for the last week. No issues. It performed perfectly. The clutch is the original and I have not had the new recall flash done yet.

Yet another reason NOT to lose sleep or worry about it.

 

[Mtpisgah]

I hadn't thought of that. You may be right.

Luckily, my ESS is rarely activated as I tend to keep the clutch in with the vehicle in gear unless I am sitting waiting on my wife. I was one of those people taught to always keep it ready when stopped in case I need to roll quick to avoid another driver.

My first vehicle, 35 years ago, was a manual. I was taught that you do not keep the clutch depressed while sitting at a light, but no reason as to why was given. I know the clutch is disengaged at that time, but I have made a practice to not do it, you are saying it is ok? It would make me feel better of it is ok as it would be more convenient sometimes.

 

[DanW]

My first vehicle, 35 years ago, was a manual. I was taught that you do not keep the clutch depressed while sitting at a light, but no reason as to why was given. I know the clutch is disengaged at that time, but I have made a practice to not do it, you are saying it is ok? It would make me feel better of it is ok as it would be more convenient sometimes.

That practice causes more wear, primarily to the throw out bearing, as it was explained to me.

I've always taken it out of gear and let the clutch pedal out while I sit. If there is an emergency, most competent drivers can get it into gear and under way VERY quickly.

For the record, I've never worn out a clutch or throw out bearing in 36 years of driving them. The longest was at about 130k when I sold it and still felt fine.

 

[DanW]

Disappointing to hear...

They don't need a beefier clutch. That isn't the problem.

 

[mbelanger]

They don't need a beefier clutch. That isn't the problem.

If the clutch/flywheel were having issues with stock output, that seems to be a design flaw though...which was why I brought my experience with another make that had a massive manual tranny faux pas into the mix, a faux pas that in just a few years has seen two different flywheels and four clutch part numbers.

If the Gladiator is capable of a higher output, but the equipment cannot manage it, the solution should be to change the equipment spec, not reprogram for a lower output.

Just my opinion though...

 

[DanW]

If the clutch/flywheel were having issues with stock output, that seems to be a design flaw though...which was why I brought my experience with another make that had a massive manual tranny faux pas into the mix, a faux pas that in just a few years has seen two different flywheels and four clutch part numbers.

If the Gladiator is capable of a higher output, but the equipment cannot manage it, the solution should be to change the equipment spec, not reprogram for a lower output.

Just my opinion though...

The problem is not stock output and it is not the clutch. It is other issues that led to a few, and I mean a few, cases of the clutch not fully disengaging or engaging and causing massive heat build-up. That has nothing to do with the strength of the clutch. ANY clutch would do that under the same conditions. This led to the heat affecting the pressure plate, exposing it to temperatures FAR higher than any pressure plate is designed to handle. Even the Centerforce would do it.

This weak clutch stuff is nothing but internet rumor. It handles the power it was designed to handle, and the 3.6 does not reach its limit.

It appears you have misunderstood what recall #2 is designed to do. When all is functioning as it should, it will NOT retard power in any way. You'll get all the horses in that 3.6. The reduction in power will only happen when enough slippage is detected to raise temperatures to the danger threshold. It then goes into a limp home mode. Once the slippage is not detected or has stopped long enough to cool down, power is fully restored. This is nothing but an insurance policy on a very extreme condition. If it is a problem other than the driver's bad habits, then it will repeatedly go into limp mode as slippage warrants. In that case, you take it to the dealer for diagnosis/repair.

If that clutch couldn't handle the 3.6's full power output, mine would have failed a long time ago. I run it harder than probably 90% of the people here. While very well maintained, my Jeep gets flogged every time I drive it.

So for those worrying, anyone with a manual, please post up if yours goes into limp mode and give us the details of the conditions under which it did it. I'm betting we won't see any unless someone's Uncle Eddie drives it and burns up the clutch by slipping it horribly and repeatedly.

 

[seven30]

What?!

Edit....I just entered my VIN and mine is affected....Ordered on 10/1/2020 took delivery just before Christmas...

“FCA will...add software to reduce engine torque capability when clutch assembly temperatures rise to a level that may damage the inner pressure plate.”

Thats some fucking BULLSHIT! Put in a pressure plate that can handle the heat!! WTF?! I’m pissed...

Oops, selected old thread.
Apparently some drivers think a clutch is a manual torque converter. There is no clutch that will withstand that kind of abuse. The recall just reduces torque when excessive abuse occurs.
The low inertia flywheel does not help things though.

 

[Bbannongmu]

Just Reprogrammed.

Here is the best solution.

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