Recall: Manual Transmission / Clutch Recall for 2020-2021 Jeep Gladiator (Notice: 21V-028)

[Gladman]

I can't figure out why with the rest of the drive train, especially the axles, being so beefy, good transmission, solid engine, why the clutch setup they have? They don't even have to look around - there are clutches already engineered for them.

Probably the financial engineers over-rode the mechanical engineers in the final decision making on the clutch spec would be my guess.

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[jimbom]

So it seems there are a number of Jeep clutches that slip/smoke even when fully engaged -- even when cruising down the highway. The first recall seemed to be an effort to weed out the defective ones, but I'm assuming that didn't work as planned. Now they've come up with a software "fix" that appears to merely prevent defective clutches from overheating, exploding and bursting into flames.

If that Hp de-rating mode ever comes on in cruise in MY Jeep, in a situation when the clutch has been engaged for a significant and continuous period of time, I'll bee-line it to Jeep and demand that my defective clutch be replaced under warranty. Who knows, maybe that's their intention should someone wind up with a defective unit?

Edit: Obviously this is in the near-term. After a significant number of miles have passed, obviously I'll acknowledge normal clutch wear.

 

[SteveInOrlando]

Ok,
clutch smoked driving flat highways ...... I am pushing an extra 100+ HP and torque ......

I feel like there is a lot more to this situation than I assumed. The horsepower is cut ONLY when slipping enough to generate excessive heat.

Part of my prep for installing my Magnuson supercharger was to chase down the burning clutch smell when coming off a long highway run.

Literally, the first week I had the truck when I ran up to Jacksonville to pick up my new tires, the clutch was burning. Any highway run over 20 miles, when you pulled off the highway and stopped, you could smell the clutch.

It didn't take long to figure out it was the clutch. If the stock clutch couldn't handle the torque of the no balls stock engine, then it definitely wasn't handling he extra torque from a Maggie. I hated the feel of the clutch, it was a piece of junk, Jeep wasn't going to fix it, so I did.

I had one of the early 2021 models and supposedly the first recall was done at the factory. That still didn't help it run on the highway though.

Once the clutch was replaced with aftermarket that problem disappeared immediately

 

[KAT$JT]

Part of my prep for installing my Magnuson supercharger was to chase down the burning clutch smell when coming off a long highway run.

Literally, the first week I had the truck when I ran up to Jacksonville to pick up my new tires, the clutch was burning. Any highway run over 20 miles, when you pulled off the highway and stopped, you could smell the clutch.

It didn't take long to figure out it was the clutch. If the stock clutch couldn't handle the torque of the no balls stock engine, then it definitely wasn't handling he extra torque from a Maggie. I hated the feel of the clutch, it was a piece of junk, Jeep wasn't going to fix it, so I did.

I had one of the early 2021 models and supposedly the first recall was done at the factory. That still didn't help it run on the highway though.

Once the clutch was replaced with aftermarket that problem disappeared immediately

Sounds like you may have had air in the clutch hydraulic lines. Bleeding was part of the initial clutch recall, mine seemed more engaged after the bleed. They installed a new factory clutch a few weeks later, and it felt a bit better. I haven't had the second recall (software) fix yet. I'm not saying this clutch isn't crap, but your symptoms lead me to that theory.

 

[DanW]

Part of my prep for installing my Magnuson supercharger was to chase down the burning clutch smell when coming off a long highway run.

Literally, the first week I had the truck when I ran up to Jacksonville to pick up my new tires, the clutch was burning. Any highway run over 20 miles, when you pulled off the highway and stopped, you could smell the clutch.

It didn't take long to figure out it was the clutch. If the stock clutch couldn't handle the torque of the no balls stock engine, then it definitely wasn't handling he extra torque from a Maggie. I hated the feel of the clutch, it was a piece of junk, Jeep wasn't going to fix it, so I did.

I had one of the early 2021 models and supposedly the first recall was done at the factory. That still didn't help it run on the highway though.

Once the clutch was replaced with aftermarket that problem disappeared immediately

Something was still wrong. Never once have I smelled the clutch unless knowingly slipping the hell out of it (backing my boat up the driveway). And I've stated before that I run mine HARD, all the time. Nobody I know personally with a JL or JT manual has ever said they smelled the clutch after normal driving. If the clutch is fully engaged, there will be no slipping, thus no smell, and little heat generated by it.

Your engine wasn't putting anywhere near max power to that clutch on a highway drive. I'd have that thing to the dealer immediately to get it sorted out.

 

[seven30]

Part of my prep for installing my Magnuson supercharger was to chase down the burning clutch smell when coming off a long highway run.

Literally, the first week I had the truck when I ran up to Jacksonville to pick up my new tires, the clutch was burning. Any highway run over 20 miles, when you pulled off the highway and stopped, you could smell the clutch.

It didn't take long to figure out it was the clutch. If the stock clutch couldn't handle the torque of the no balls stock engine, then it definitely wasn't handling he extra torque from a Maggie. I hated the feel of the clutch, it was a piece of junk, Jeep wasn't going to fix it, so I did.

I had one of the early 2021 models and supposedly the first recall was done at the factory. That still didn't help it run on the highway though.

Once the clutch was replaced with aftermarket that problem disappeared immediately

Ive owned cars with failing clutches. If the clutch slips the tach will increase without corresponding vehicle increase. If a clutch slips at hwy cruse id say its broken, not defective.
Id like to find a posting/video of the gladiator clutch actually slipping when fully engaged.
That said my clutch did smell for the first couple of days and it took nearly 2000 miles for the engagement point to firm up. But I can guarantee its easily handling the full torque this v6 musters up.

 

[81Mojave]

Air in line will keep you from engaging the clutch (disconnecting engine from transmission)
I have seen worn a clutch where a car would loose speed going over a bridge on the highway with very little RPM change ( no it did not rev out), owner asked me to troubleshoot it. The clutch was completely worn, flywheel blued and cracking. It honestly would have gone unnoticed for longer except she drove over that bridge every day

 

[Bbannongmu]

Just got pics and tracking number for my long awaited (over a year due to a complete redesign) Centerforce clutch. Can’t wait! Gotta break in my 5.13 gears and then get it into the shop for the clutch and flywheel.

 

[SelfmodJT]

Just got pics and tracking number for my long awaited (over a year due to a complete redesign) Centerforce clutch. Can’t wait! Gotta break in my 5.13 gears and then get it into the shop for the clutch and flywheel.

So centerforce finally figured out all the bugs, good to know. This will def be down the road replacement for me. Please keep us informed on how the clutch operates and if there are any issues. Thanks.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Air in line will keep you from engaging the clutch (disconnecting engine from transmission)
I have seen worn a clutch where a car would loose speed going over a bridge on the highway with very little RPM change ( no it did not rev out), owner asked me to troubleshoot it. The clutch was completely worn, flywheel blued and cracking. It honestly would have gone unnoticed for longer except she drove over that bridge every day

Disconnecting is disengaging the clutch - engaging the clutch is letting the pedal out and the clutch grabs and becomes a solid turning mass.
Air in a hydraulic clutch master/slave system would prevent you from fully disengaging the clutch but that would make it really hard to shift or get into low or reverse because the input shaft would want to keep spinning because the clutch would not fully release.
Once you let up on the pedal and allowed the clutch to engage (to GO) then air would not matter at all.
All air does is make it difficult to fully disengage the clutch, to fully release it, and makes shifting harder, especially reverse.
Hydraulic clutches are otherwise self-adjusting.

 

[Bbannongmu]

So centerforce finally figured out all the bugs, good to know. This will def be down the road replacement for me. Please keep us informed on how the clutch operates and if there are any issues. Thanks.

Will do.

 

[Bbannongmu]

Will do.

just got it and unboxed it. Gotta get my gear broken in and then get some shop time and install.

 

[Choatecav]

just got it and unboxed it. Gotta get my gear broken in and then get some shop time and install.

Wanna hear more about this once you get it in. Thanks

 

[Bbannongmu]

Wanna hear more about this once you get it in. Thanks

Will do.

 

[KAT$JT]

Sounds like you may have had air in the clutch hydraulic lines. Bleeding was part of the initial clutch recall, mine seemed more engaged after the bleed. They installed a new factory clutch a few weeks later, and it felt a bit better. I haven't had the second recall (software) fix yet. I'm not saying this clutch isn't crap, but your symptoms lead me to that theory.

I finally had the clutch recall software update. So far so good. It does feel less likely to stall, especially when backing up slowly, with no throttle, clutch out, applying slight brake pressure & going up my driveway. Was a bit trickier to go slow before the software update. And so far no "interference" or other detuning that I can see/feel from the update.

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